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1st time soob owner and I believe i got it figured out but..

The timing is off since replacing my water pump. Just bought this soob 1500 miles ago and he had reciepts for new timing belt and other stuff, but no new water pump. Tight new belt prob. caused the water pump pulley shaft to snap. From what I have found out so far it is a non-interefernce engine so all valves and such are okay. My manual and this forum seem to be matching answers on the timing issue.

So I just have to align the two camshaft marks-(not the arrows)-at 12 o clock as well as the mark on the crankshaft gear-(not pulley)? It seems pretty easy but my driver side cam gear does not want to stay in the 12 o clock position, big channellocks i assume? It seems to want to live at the 2 0 clock position. + the timing belt has no marks on it. Used to working on bb w/ timing chains so any ideas or tips would be helpful, thanks nate.

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Holding the driveras side cam gear stationary is somewhat tricky. Just keep trying, you'll.

 

I usually remove the smooth, lower idler and leave it off until I get everything lined up. Makes things easier.

 

You don't need marks on the belts, just make sure you've got all the pulley/gear marks at 12o'clock. *note the crank gear mark is on one of the Crank sensor tabs.

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yes - non interference for sure, so no damage.

 

that drivers side pulley will stick in place - keep on trying, just move it gradually. be careful with channel locks, don't want to scar important surfaces, but i've never had to use anything like that - just the 17mm socket on the pulley bolt and it's golden.

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What I did was a bit "unorthodox" -

 

I used a tongue depressor and a pair of vise grips to hold the belt to the cam pulley (just clamp it LIGHTLY - enough to hold the belt in position) and then slip the belt over the crank pulley gear. That tongue depressor just prevents damage to the belt - you can clamp it about anywhere on the "belt contact" radius but make sure you can still see the timing marks. A piece of old timing belt would also work but you need to put it upside down (flat side to flat side is best to hold everything in place)

 

Don't take off the clamp just yet - align the side and slip the belt onto the crank pulley there, too and lightly clamp it down. What you just did was to fix the cam positions to the crank position.

 

Now the rest gets a bit easier - route the belt around the water pump, install the cogged idler pulley and THEN install the tensioner and pulley and the cogged pulley - which is a real BEAR to get in - took about 30 minutes of aligning the bolt to the hole in the blind (but don't pull the PIN in the tensioner yet)

 

Check alignment of the crank plus the 2 cam pulley marks to make sure it's still OK, put in the bottom left idler pulley, do a final check (just to be sure) and pull the pin on the tensioner (remember, the belt CAN'T slip because you held it to the pulleys with the vise grips.)

 

If you need to move the cam pulley, I used a crow foot wrench turned 90 degrees to the side and fit it over the cam spoke. It was either 14 or 17mm IIRC.

 

Take off the vise grips and you're done.

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Sweet, thnx for the tips. I'm gonna try to get it all back together on thursday so I'll post up my experiences. Not gonna bother with the A/C @ 10,000 ft. Might even get better gas mileage?

 

I bought an 91 w/o a timing belt cover. What needs to be removed in roder ot get the cover on?

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Got her running. Besides a stripped tensioner pulley bolt(loctite and coarse threads). I cut my plastic timing belt cover off, but if I wanted to take it off the correct way and reinstall the correct way-the crankshaft pulley needs to be removed on a 93.

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Unfortunately, if you want to take the middle part of the belt cover off you have to pull the CRANK PULLEY no matter what.

 

97 is the same both Phase 1 and Phase 2 BOTH

 

it's a "minor" PITA to get it ON (getting it "off" is a breaker bar against the ground or frame and use the starter to turn the engine - or have the "tool" to hold the crank pulley - which eliminates the "get it on" issue)

 

 

 

to put on a timing belt cover, you need to strip the engine front down to bare. Cam gears, the crank pulley and belt have to come off. There are 5 or 6 bolts that secure the rear 1/2 of the cover to the block (which probably aren't there) - all JY stuff.

 

That cover keeps the big pieces out of the teeth - so plan on a "sooner than 80k replacement" if you operate in a sandy or heavy dusty environment

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  • 6 months later...

Ok i'm getting ready to tackle this job for the first time on my 2.2. I plan to follow the chiltons manual instructions. Are there any shortcuts or things that i should know of to avoid making bigger problems or anything i.e. tools that I definately need to do the job? I'm also gonna replace the water pump.And re-build the power steering pump. Anywords of advice would be most appreciated.

Edited by 952.2LX
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set aside extra time and do everything while it's apart.

 

reseal the oil pump - seal, oring, and tigten the backing plate screws with lock tite on any that are loose (4 of them were on the one i just did yesterday).

 

replace the cam seals and cam cap oring on the drivers side. if you decide to do these, loosen the 17mm camshaft bolt before removing the old timing belt. otherwise it's a pain.

 

replace all the timing pulleys. the ebay kits are great, only $80 or so.

 

i'd be more concerned about replacing the pulleys than the water pump, i've seen more of those fail.

 

install the new belt from left to right - left (passengers side when you're working on it) cam, then across crank, the other cam, water pump, etc. finish off with the toothed idler last.

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yea i'm gonna get a kit off ebay tonight. it probably won't get here b4 this weekend so i guess i'll have to do it next weekend. I have 3 day weekends now that my pays been cut 20%:mad: so i should have the time. Well the wp seal is leakin a bit so i need to get it done soon.

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read some existing notes on seal replacements. they're kind of annoying. for your first time, remove the radiator for sure and get a PCV pipe cut the right size and the diameter of the seals to help drive them in.

 

read as many timing belt/seal replacement/oil pump notes as you can to get yourself familiar.

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  • 3 weeks later...

Ok, I now have all the parts except for a new set of tb covers. Waiting on that....and then the weekend will happen. Probably also gonna help cobcob with a couple of 2.2 hg's he needs to replace. So that'd be a good experience.

Edited by 952.2LX
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