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91 Legacy Wagon L

 

After I place the vehcile in park and let off th ebrake the car lurches forward a bit.

 

I figure this is tranny related.

 

I have the binding issue, but have removed the rear driveline until I can replace the Duty C which I got from the junkyard, but have not installed yet.

 

Is the lurching an issue that will get worse over time?

 

When removing the Duty C out of the junker the clutch pack seemed to be OK and was not rusted together. I'm thinking I might want to go and get that entire tranny otu of the junker if the lurching is a for warning of full failure?

 

Thoughts????

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How about more specifics-mileage for sure.My Jeep at 181000 miles does this

and it's a combo of slack in the drivetrain and where the tranny has to line up with the parking awl.Just the fact that your car is a 91 leads me to say that you've got to expect little things and have lots of pennies to keep up with it like your other post regarding your A/C noise.i would advise that you do a thorough inspection just to see if anything looks out of whack,if you don't have the knowledge or skills ask someone that does to take a look then go from there.It is very hard to diagnose problems/symptoms over the computer without sound or hands on.I'm not putting you down but as you'll learn description is everything and without specifics don't expect much.

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How about more specifics-mileage for sure.My Jeep at 181000 miles does this

and it's a combo of slack in the drivetrain and where the tranny has to line up with the parking awl.Just the fact that your car is a 91 leads me to say that you've got to expect little things and have lots of pennies to keep up with it like your other post regarding your A/C noise.i would advise that you do a thorough inspection just to see if anything looks out of whack,if you don't have the knowledge or skills ask someone that does to take a look then go from there.It is very hard to diagnose problems/symptoms over the computer without sound or hands on.I'm not putting you down but as you'll learn description is everything and without specifics don't expect much.

 

180K miles.

 

Car is pretty much a junker and I will do what I can to keep it going.

 

I get about 23 mpg after new plugs and wires was getting 19mpg.

 

I figure the cae will not run like new seeing how it is almost 20 years old, but a guys gotta ask right?

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While reading up on my torque binding issue I read about this lurching. It had to do with either the clutch pack sticking or some fluid pressue still locking clutches together, but I cannot find those articles.

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While reading up on my torque binding issue I read about this lurching. It had to do with either the clutch pack sticking or some fluid pressue still locking clutches together, but I cannot find those articles.

with torque binding, the front and rear wheels 'want' to turn the exact same number of times. when you drive anything except a straight line, there is a differentce between the front and rear wheel rotations, this difference builds up. on long runs it works itself out through the tires on the pavement. on short runs the difference is stored in the drive line, drive shaft, axles, tires. when you shift into neutral or park, it releases. in neutral it just bleeds off, in park it bleeds off and is caught by the park lock.

 

i can't imagine how this could continue without the rear drive shaft in place.

 

does the car lurch in park if you are on perfectly flat ground?

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You are overthinking this.

 

You're parking pawl in the trans is worn. Probably someone parked this car on a hill, then just ripped it out of gear in the mornings. This causes the parking pawl to wear indents.

 

Problem is, you shouldn't rely on the *Park* function of the trans to stop the car from rolling. If you are on even a slight incline, you must first set the PARKING brake (ie E-brake) before letting you're foot off the brakes and shifting to park. This way the pawl in the trans doesn't get loaded with the full vehicle weight.

 

Good news is, you can replace the pawl easily when you swap the C solenoid/clutches. It is just placed over a pin, with a spring to load it. Often it falls out when removing the tail section.

 

I would advise just getting the whole tail section of that used trans, and get the pawl too. No need to replace the entire trans.

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You are overthinking this.

 

You're parking pawl in the trans is worn. Probably someone parked this car on a hill, then just ripped it out of gear in the mornings. This causes the parking pawl to wear indents.

 

Problem is, you shouldn't rely on the *Park* function of the trans to stop the car from rolling. If you are on even a slight incline, you must first set the PARKING brake (ie E-brake) before letting you're foot off the brakes and shifting to park. This way the pawl in the trans doesn't get loaded with the full vehicle weight.

 

Good news is, you can replace the pawl easily when you swap the C solenoid/clutches. It is just placed over a pin, with a spring to load it. Often it falls out when removing the tail section.

 

I would advise just getting the whole tail section of that used trans, and get the pawl too. No need to replace the entire trans.

 

When I removed the junkyard rear housing the spring dropped to the ground. I posted up here and was told it is the parking pawl spring. Circle of life eh?

 

So, since I will have the rear housing off to replace the Duty C selonoid (already have), I might as well replace hte clutch pack and parking pawl?

 

Is there any tricks to making sure everything is lioned up so when the cover goes back on everything stays lined up and doesnt fall out???

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