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Drive shaft removal

Featured Replies

'84 EA-81, 4 speed manual.

I've finally figured out that the rattling noise while driving is coming from play in the u-joint. So, I've got a new pair ready to go in, but I'm having trouble getting the drive shaft out. I've got the four bolts out but I can't seem to get the thing to separate from the rear diff. How tolerant to beating or prying on is it?

 

Thanks

'84 EA-81, 4 speed manual.

I've finally figured out that the rattling noise while driving is coming from play in the u-joint. So, I've got a new pair ready to go in, but I'm having trouble getting the drive shaft out. I've got the four bolts out but I can't seem to get the thing to separate from the rear diff. How tolerant to beating or prying on is it?

 

Thanks

 

Once all 4 bolts are out of the diff. it should fall too the ground????? (possibly a couple love taps at the flange)

undo the center bearing then the whole unit should slide forward... (the plate with the four bolts can also stick like a wheel to a hub a little bumping could loosen it.)

Mine is a little like that too. (mine's a one piece shaft)

 

I've always just been able to force it out of there.

Kind of a push it forward, hope there is just a little flex in the engine/trans mounts you can use and it'll pop out. In is about the same.

I just get it up there, and kinda bang it with my palm.

Sometimes the direction you have the plate facing helps. Seems like they are wider one way than the other and can rock against the diff more. Thus giving you more room to slip it by.

give her a tap with a mallet and it should pop off. sometimes they stick if they are rusty or have never been removed, just surface tension.

  • Author

Yep, mine is one piece as well. I have pulled, pushed twisted, pryed (lightly) and clobbered with a bf mallet and the thing won't drop out.

So, there should definately be some forward travel involved... I'll have to get 'er up on jacks to see if I can get more leverage against those mounts.

 

Thanks!

Yep, mine is one piece as well. I have pulled, pushed twisted, pryed (lightly) and clobbered with a bf mallet and the thing won't drop out.

So, there should definately be some forward travel involved... I'll have to get 'er up on jacks to see if I can get more leverage against those mounts.

 

Thanks!

 

Yeah you won't even really notice the movement. But I'm sure there's a bit to be had.

But I know I can pull on mine all day straight down and it just hangs on the pinon shaft nut. But if I grab it good and pull forward and down it comes out.

 

And like I said mine looks like it's wider one way than the other. (bolts are unevenly spaced as well)

So having it so it's widest side to side, narrowest up and down, will help it rock a hair more to clear the nut as well. Something you can do once it's unbolted hust have it in neutral and turn the shaft until it's where you want it.

Good luck. I know mine was a pain the first couple times I pulled it till I got the hang of it.

 

And if you are pulling the driveshaft all the way out to replace the joints. Remember, a bunch of gear oil is gonna come pouring out the end of the tranny.

  • Author

yeah, the torch would have been easiest...

I got it out though. Getting it up off the ground was probably the key. Changed the angle enough to gain some extra play, and some whoppin room too.

I drained the tranny ahead of time but sure enough about a cup or so of oil came out. Wasn't too big of a mess though.

Thanks everyone for the replies...

Now, I gotta find a C-clamp!

for future reference when I get one thats rusted to the pinion flange I take out the bolts and put it in gear under power just for a second. it will spin it loose

  • Author
for future reference when I get one thats rusted to the pinion flange I take out the bolts and put it in gear under power just for a second. it will spin it loose

Ahh..I thought about that... would have been the last resort, with my luck and the havoc I envisioned.

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