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Exhaust leak

Featured Replies

Seeing this is not operational, can I remove this pipe and plug it or weld it shut? Best way to plug it would be.............?

 

0906081438.jpg

Unthread the pipe from the body of the valve and drop your quarter in the valve body. Then tighten the pipe back on. You can then pull the rubber hose off.

 

As to it not being operational - it *can* be if you just put a small filter on the end of that hose instead of blocking it with a quarter. Use the stock silencer if you want to quiet it down.

 

GD

  • Author

Problem is the other end of the pipe. The part that connects on the bottom fitting [not the valve end, the head end]. Its leaking there [i think]. Tried tightening, no budge. Was thinking I could get it off somehow and plug it.

 

Speaking of exhaust......where the Y pipe joins to one pipe, there is a big section [can] at the joint. Whats in there?? Looks like it could be a muffling device, but dont think it is.

Problem is the other end of the pipe. The part that connects on the bottom fitting [not the valve end, the head end]. Its leaking there [i think]. Tried tightening, no budge. Was thinking I could get it off somehow and plug it.

 

IIRC, on the EA82's that's a flange that uses two 10mm bolts to secure it to the head correct? It probably could use a new gasket. Otherwise you can cut the flange off the pipe leaving about 1", flatten it with a hammer and run a weld across the seam. Make sure you get the mating surfaces clean and use something like loctite 518 or 519 on the flange.

 

Speaking of exhaust......where the Y pipe joins to one pipe, there is a big section [can] at the joint. Whats in there?? Looks like it could be a muffling device, but dont think it is.

 

That's the catalytic converter. The valve you are trying to fix supplies it with fresh oxygen to facilitate the catalyst action and increase it's performance.

 

They are stainless steel, so keep that in mind when you are working on them. I generally remove the heat sheilds, cut a flap out of the top so I can dump out the contents, then weld it back up. The heat sheild covers up the welded flap so no one is the wiser come inspection time if you have such a thing. Often the guts are either broken and rattling around in there or just gone - leaving only the wire mesh and some bracketry to get sucked into the outlet side of the housing and screw with your backpressure.

 

GD

Actually they both are converters. Some models had two. Some only had the first one at the y-pipe junction. The models that only have one have a resonator where your second cat is at in the mid-pipe.

 

GD

  • Author
Actually they both are converters. Some models had two. Some only had the first one at the y-pipe junction. The models that only have one have a resonator where your second cat is at in the mid-pipe.

 

GD

 

Think they should have a 3rd, just incase?? I wonder if anyone would like them? Just going to the scrap pile.

Think they should have a 3rd, just incase?? I wonder if anyone would like them? Just going to the scrap pile.

 

A lot of scrap places will pay decent for the things. I've seen places advertise $100 a piece for them. The have some precious metals in them like platinum and palladium.

 

GD

  • Author

Wow, wish we had a scrap place within a couple hundred miles. Just going to crush the car I guess. Interesting though............

  • 2 weeks later...

I just sold the downpipe cat off my old '88 GL10-T wagon to a scrap dealer for $85.00!! :clap::headbang:

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