The "Check Engine" light is illuminated on my '00 Outback Wagon. I'd bought an OBD II reader from Harbor Freight (a cheapie). When I tried to read the code, the reader just said, "ERROR". I figured I was being punished for buying from Harbor Freight. I just bought another (nicer) code reader and it's giving me the same problem -- LCD just says "error". Symptoms are the same. When I plug in the code reader, it says "scanning" or "reading" or "getting info" or something like that....and a few seconds later, it simply says "error". Has anyone else seen this? Suggestions? The check engine light has been on for a few months now; tabs expire in a month. The Check Engine light is currently off, but history says it'll be on again soon (it's been cycling on and off every few times it's driven). Advice?

Try actually starting the car instead of just having it in the "on" position. I have a pretty nice scanner that works great on every Subaru (and other makes) but for some VERY odd reason I have to actually start my 00' OBW to get it to connect to my scanner.

I bought a scantool from Rallitek last year and installed it. It wouldn't update readings and wouldn't read the codes. I called the manufacturer and he said subaru does something different in updating the data coming out of the OBDII receptacle from "standard". He had me go into the parameters section and change one parameter. It's been working fine ever since.

 

I would suspect that the HF version is not smart enough to tell the difference.

...and DrKrazy wins the prize! Read the code just fine when I started the car, then attached the scanner. Thank you!

 

(and Ed, thank you for the advice too....both of these are pretty simple scanners, so I don't have a "parameters section".

 

I was just about to go shell out for a spendy Actron, but now I have my error code (P0325 -- knock sensor) -- now I get to go research.

What research? A knock sensor is about $20 and takes 5 min. to change.

 

Have fun!

What research? A knock sensor is about $20 and takes 5 min. to change.

 

Have fun!

 

What knock sensor are you using? The cheapest I've ever seen one was 65 bucks, and depending on the intake ducts that are on the car, can take more like 15 min to change. Still pretty easy.

Edited January 31, 200917 yr by bratman18

What knock sensor are you using? The cheapest I've ever seen one was 65 bucks, and depending on the intake ducts that are on the car, can take more like 15 min to change. Still pretty easy.

AAAH! Ya got me. $43.

http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/raframecatalog.php

 

I was thinking of my truck; where I got BOTH for $22 ($11 ea.).

Heck - I couldn't even find it under engine or ignition or electrical.

 

I always use OEM as suggested here and they are usually around 100 bucks. If I don't have a used one laying around.

 

Are folks having luch with aftermarket?

It's just a piezo transducer. I can't imagine the factory part being any better, and for 1/2 price- how can you go wrong.

 

They are listed under "emissions" on rockauto.com.

AAAH! Ya got me. $43.

http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/raframecatalog.php

 

I was thinking of my truck; where I got BOTH for $22 ($11 ea.).

 

Thanks for the link. I have never seen one lower than like 65 bucks! So it's good to know they can be had cheaper. The one in my car right now is an ebay one and it's worked great ever since I put it in!

Searching for "Subaru knock sensor" on Ebay turns up a couple of sellers offering it for around $44 shipped, and they claim it's OEM.

 

By "now I get to go research", I simply meant that I'd never encountered this problem before. 5 minutes here, on Google, and on Ebay told me all I needed to know. Even found pics showing the location of the sensor. Looks like it's almost as easy to change as a spark plug.

 

One thing I learned from posts at various forums is that the car's computer can trigger this error code if the electrical contact between the sensor and the block is not good. Several people have reported success simply polishing the mating surfaces with emery cloth or a Brillo pad and re-attaching. Others report that the part tends to crack. I'm going to go make a visual inspection. If it looks intact but grungy, I may try the cleanup first, but for the price, it may be worthwhile to just get a new one. Car's at around 140K......

 

Davebugs, I couldn't find the part when I looked at Rock Auto, either.

 

BTW, the code reader I successfully used last night came from Schucks (aka Checker, Kragen, and Murray's) and was on clearance online for $24. It's not the most advanced device -- it only has 2 buttons on it -- but it checks codes, displays the code ID and text, and lets you clear the codes. For $24, it's a nice addition to the toolbox if you own an OBDII car. Here's the link:

 

http://www.partsamerica.com/ProductDetail.aspx?MfrCode=CDK&MfrPartNumber=92202

 

Select "Buy online, pickup today!" and see which stores around you have them. I just typed in a Seattle ZIP code, a Redmond (WA) ZIP code, and a Bay Area (San Mateo) ZIP code, and found readers available at all locations, so I don't think they're hard to find.

Edited February 1, 200917 yr by snoutmeat

$44 shipped sounds good to me! I'd get that!