murphsubaru Posted February 10, 2009 Share Posted February 10, 2009 99' Forester Check engine light code P0141, Bank 1 sensor 2. My understanding of the printout indicates that it would be the first one down from the cylinder head which is on the converter. If this is true how do you remove it?? It is on top and to the side with no room for a wrench. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnceggleston Posted February 10, 2009 Share Posted February 10, 2009 99' Forester Check engine light code P0141, Bank 1 sensor 2. My understanding of the printout indicates that it would be the first one down from the cylinder head which is on the converter. If this is true how do you remove it?? It is on top and to the side with no room for a wrench. it's the one to the rear of the cats. disconnect the wire connector at the rump roast end of the trans, spray on some penetrating oil like pb blaster, and use a closed end wrench, slipping it over the wire. some people suggest running the car a little to warm up the pipe. letting the spray sit and seep in for a while may help. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OB99W Posted February 10, 2009 Share Posted February 10, 2009 See my reply #10 in your previous thread on this topic: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?p=796067 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
murphsubaru Posted February 10, 2009 Author Share Posted February 10, 2009 Can I fake out the check engine light somehow so I can pass an E-check until I get the sensor replaced? What would happed if I spliced the wires together? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cougar Posted February 11, 2009 Share Posted February 11, 2009 (edited) Can I fake out the check engine light somehow so I can pass an E-check until I get the sensor replaced? What would happed if I spliced the wires together? As the others have stated already the trouble is with the heater circuit to the sensor after the CAT. You cannot short the heater wires together to solve this trouble. Either the heater in the sensor is bad and you will need to replace the sensor or, there is a bad connection to the heater and you need to repair the circuit wiring to the sensor heater. By checking the voltage across the heater leads you should see 12 volts there when the heater is supposed to be on. This is usually while the engine is warming up. You can also check the resistance of the heater coil to see if it is ok. As a guess, the normal resistance for the heater may be about 10 ohms. As an added note. When you start a thread for a problem please do not start another one for the same thing. This makes it more confusing for others trying to help you deal with problem. Information between the two threads is usually different. Edited February 11, 2009 by Cougar Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OB99W Posted February 11, 2009 Share Posted February 11, 2009 What Cougar wrote is good info. The only thing I can add is that an O2 sensor's heater changes resistance with temperature, since it isn't needed once the exhaust system reaches operating temperature. They typically draw about 2 amps when 'cold' (ambient temp) -- the resistance is around 6 ohms then, and it goes up significantly when hot. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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