Time to re-seal, but what?

[mulcheese]

I think it is time to do some re-sealing on my 97OBS. I have noticed over the years that the engine leaks a little but not much for a car of 185,000 miles. Over the recent holidays I took a trip which was the first for this car in many years. I was traveling on the highway at speeds of 75mph. The car has not exceeded 60 for long periods of time in a loooooong time. When I reached my destination I thought the car was going to start on fire because there was so much smoke from the oil on the exhaust. It actually leaked less than a quart but I think it did it all within that 4 hour trip. As I said the car has leaked a little for years bit this time it was all at once. Typically the car is driven to and from work with a mixture of highway and city driving. Now that I havent taken another trip in some time I have not noticed much leaking other than the typical. On average I lose 1 quart every 1000 miles.

 

My question is, this summer I plan on cleaning up the car so that it can make it a couple more years. What should I be looking at re-sealing? Right now I cant see exactly where it is leaking from but it is mainly coming for the back of the engine down to the oil pan and maybe even form the oil pan itself. I already plan on doing the oil pan, and valve covers. What else should I do?

[nipper]

Cam seals

Main seal

re-seal the valvecovers (or at least inspect them to see if they are leaking).

To do those you need to remove the timing belt, so you know what that means..... timing belt, tensioner, idler and waterpump (since you are already there).

 

Inspect the back of the engine and see if you have an oil leak there. If you do thats the plastic seperator plate leaking.

 

 

Also sonething that you should do today, is replace the PCV valve. That will remove some stress off the seals and help reduce leaking.

 

nipper

[idosubaru]

two things you can do right now that might help a bunch.

 

the PCV valve takes one wrench and a couple minutes to replace. use a Subaru PCV valve and replace that now. it might slow some of the leaking.

 

the passengers side cam oring which is on the rear of the engine. it's only 2 12mm bolts...or 10mm bolts. remove those two bolts, pull out cap, and replace oring.

 

i just replaced mine on my 1997 OBS last week with 125,000 miles and it was hard as a rock. not what an oring is supposed to be like.

 

since those two things are so easy, do them now and see what happens. maybe it'll help a lot and lessen your worries.

 

once you're ready for the big deal, do everything at once - timing belt, water pump, timing pulleys, and seals. crank seal, cam seals, and cam orings. reseal the oil pump - one oring and anearobic sealant (available at any auto parts store). also remove any loose screws on the back of the oil pump and reinstall all of them with locktite. very common for some to be loose.

 

your oil pan is not the major culprit here, i wouldn't mess with that right now. on the older stuff, the oil pans are a real bear to reseal. it looks easy but is a pain. you have to unbolt and lift the engine due to the baffles inside the pan and sump hanging into the pan. you essentially have to "move" the pan before it'll drop down, has to be aligned just right. and that position makes it run into stuff, so you have to lift the engine up to do it.

[mulcheese]

I guess I should have mentioned that the timing belt and everything associated with it was attended to some time back so all that is of concern now is at the back. From what I have seen so far and from the searches I have done Im thinking the seperator plate is the culprit. What do I look for to be sure? What I mean is where should the oil be leaking from to indicate the seperator plate?