Hey everyone! New to the forum. I've been reading through some of it today, and love it here. There is a lot of helpful information.

 

Let's get down to the nitty gritty. I need some advice. I have a 1990 Legacy FWD with the EJ22 engine. I've been having an off and on overheating problems for a long time now.

 

Let's rewind to a year or two ago- I replaced the thermostat, and it still would get hot. So I removed the thermostat altogether, and that seemed to reduce the problem.

 

Fast forward to now- It has a been overheating quite a lot lately. Just a few weeks ago I discovered I had air pockets in the coolant system. I burped all of the air out, and fill it up with coolant. Four days later, it was again running too hot for comfort, and discovered to my amazement that it was extremely low on coolant. Filled it back up. The next day, it was overheating again. I might note that the high around here right now is 40-45 degrees. It also idles VERY roughly immediately after I start it, sometimes dying on the first start. It sometimes sounds like it's only firing on two cylinders. I have to hold the throttle to keep the thing running. After it warms up it seems to fire fine. All of the plugs and wires were replaced last summer.

 

Does anyone have any idea what's going on? I'm afraid I might have a blown head gasket, but I am not much of a mechanic. Any help would be much appreciated.

 

Oh, one last note- it has over 205,000 miles.

Edited February 16, 200917 yr by rolerick

Welcome to USMB. Sounds like you are getting air pockets in the cooling system from the combustion process (leaky HG) witch will restrict coolant flow and result in overheating. Is there times when your heater just stops blowing warm air? I had a 91 with a bad HG that would idle all day without a problem but as soon as I drove it the temp would start rising and the heater would stop producing heat while puking out the overflow tank. Any external leaks? Hopefully it is just the waterpump or a hose leaking.

When I am low on coolant, my heater will blast cold air and my temp gauge will fluctuate. And it pukes into the overflow. The difference with mine though is that it seems to be getting pretty hot while idling. I refilled it with coolant today and let it idle for about ten minutes, then I started taking the radiator cap off and it was boiling over. I haven't noticed any external leaks... though it could be coming out of the tailpipe.

it sounds a whole lot like a bad HG. i would want to rule out a clogged radiator as well. is there any gunk in the over flow bottle, when it runs hot are there bubbles in the overflow?

 

assuming the HG repair price is very similar to a 2.5L repair, you might look for a replacement engine.

I had the same problem on a 91 leggie a few years back. It was a bad HG. It was less hassle to find a good motor in a wrecking yard, then had a mechanic install it. The motor ran super for several more years until the trany tanked.

it sounds a whole lot like a bad HG. i would want to rule out a clogged radiator as well. is there any gunk in the over flow bottle, when it runs hot are there bubbles in the overflow?

 

assuming the HG repair price is very similar to a 2.5L repair, you might look for a replacement engine.

 

There is some residue coating the inside of the the overflow bottle. I don't know about bubbles, but the overflow has burst open before- spraying coolant all over the inside of my hood.

 

I could buy a new engine, but I've never taken an engine out/put one in. I have some friend who have done it though. I couldn't afford to have a mechanic do it. I usually just try and figure it out on my own.

Edited February 17, 200917 yr by rolerick

UPDATE:

 

Upon close inspection, it is doing exactly what subyfreak described. Since I have nothing but time on my hands, I've decided to pull the engine and at least do a valve job and repair the heads. I'm going to look at the water pump first though and make sure that isn't the problem. If it's not, I'll continue to work my way down.

 

I'll probably start a new thread to show my progress. I'll be taking pics. Wish me luck!

Since you pulled the motor already, this is kinda pointless.

 

But just an FYI to anyone with headgasket issues blowing out all you'r coolant.

 

If you open the bleeder screw on the passenger side of the radiator.....just a few turns....it will spew off steam, and pressure. And because of it's location over the engine outlet to rad, most of the gasses getting into the system are expelled through the vent, rather than out the overflow.

 

This helps retain you're coolant MUCH longer.

 

example... we went and bought a legacy for $200 the other day. had to drive it 80 miles home.

 

idled fine, but within 500 feet of highway speed driving, temp shot to red.

 

So we opened that vent... and bypassed heater core(to remove the trap for bubble), then refilled and burped the coolant(park on an incline nose up) car drove 20 miles or so at 50-60 miles per hour up and down hills, with the temp needle stuck in the middle, like it should be.

 

Transmission then died a violent and shaky death. LOL. but anyways.....

 

I am sure it would have not overheated and made the 60 more miles home except for the trans siezing(yes, seizing)

Edited February 18, 200917 yr by Gloyale

Haven't pulled it yet.

Thanks for the info though. That's actually really nice to know. And that sucks about that tranny.

That's actually really nice to know.

 

You will lose some coolant over time this way, so you will need to be fanatical about checking it as long as you run like this.

Since you pulled the motor already, this is kinda pointless.

 

But just an FYI to anyone with headgasket issues blowing out all you'r coolant.

 

If you open the bleeder screw on the passenger side of the radiator.....just a few turns....it will spew off steam, and pressure. And because of it's location over the engine outlet to rad, most of the gasses getting into the system are expelled through the vent, rather than out the overflow.

 

This helps retain you're coolant MUCH longer.

 

example... we went and bought a legacy for $200 the other day. had to drive it 80 miles home.

 

idled fine, but within 500 feet of highway speed driving, temp shot to red.

 

So we opened that vent... and bypassed heater core(to remove the trap for bubble), then refilled and burped the coolant(park on an incline nose up) car drove 20 miles or so at 50-60 miles per hour up and down hills, with the temp needle stuck in the middle, like it should be.

 

Transmission then died a violent and shaky death. LOL. but anyways.....

 

I am sure it would have not overheated and made the 60 more miles home except for the trans siezing(yes, seizing)

 

 

 

 

 

That's a good tip regarding loosing the bleeder screw to let off steam and pressure when driving with a bad HG. I will have to remember that should a case of the HGs hits my phase one motor.

 

Sorry to hear that your $200 special didn't get you home. You don't seem too angry about it, but still you didn't need that aggravation.

 

Sorry to hear that your $200 special didn't get you home. You don't seem too angry about it, but still you didn't need that aggravation.

 

Nah, it was all but expected.

 

Bought the car with intentions of building a Family Wheeler for my buddies wife. She has wrist problems(lives in a brace) so needs an automatic. And this one is a color she liked. We just really wanted a straight shell. This one was never wrecked, bought from Original owner, nice paint, no rust.

 

So plans are a Phase II 2.5 (run off 2.2 ECU) mated to a 92 Turbo Legacy 4EAT(the one with the beefier clutch packs)

 

Then an outback strut lift, possibly a 2-3 inch body lift as well.

UPDATE:

 

Upon close inspection, it is doing exactly what subyfreak described. Since I have nothing but time on my hands, I've decided to pull the engine and at least do a valve job and repair the heads. I'm going to look at the water pump first though and make sure that isn't the problem. If it's not, I'll continue to work my way down.

 

I'll probably start a new thread to show my progress. I'll be taking pics. Wish me luck!

 

Just make sure you have the heads checked for warping/cracks. I think you will find replacing the head gaskets on this engine are not all that difficult once you get everything out of the way. If you have any troubles or questions just post them here as there are quite a few people with lots of experience here that don't mind helping a fellow Subaru owner. Best of luck.

So, I'm looking at the timing, right, and when I line up the cam sprockets, the mark on the crank sprocket is in the 3 o'clock position. I'm a little hesitant to continue and take the TB off. Any ideas?

Edited February 19, 200917 yr by rolerick

So, I'm looking at the timing, right, and when I line up the cam sprockets, the mark on the crank sprocket is in the 3 o'clock position. I'm a little hesitant to continue and take the TB off. Any ideas?

 

I'll bet you are looking at the arrow. Don't look at the arrow. Arrows are the marks for checking valve clearances.

 

Look for the small mark on one of the tabs on the rear part of that crank sprocket. that mark is for the Timing belt

 

If that is the mark you are using, and it is actually miss timed, don't worry about taking it apart. Just take the old belt off, line up the new one and your set.

I'll bet you are looking at the arrow. Don't look at the arrow. Arrows are the marks for checking valve clearances.

 

Look for the small mark on one of the tabs on the rear part of that crank sprocket. that mark is for the Timing belt

 

If that is the mark you are using, and it is actually miss timed, don't worry about taking it apart. Just take the old belt off, line up the new one and your set.

 

I, in fact, was looking at the arrow. Thanks for the tip! I wouldn't have thought of that. :-\

Time to get back to work!

Since you pulled the motor already, this is kinda pointless.

 

But just an FYI to anyone with headgasket issues blowing out all you'r coolant.

 

If you open the bleeder screw on the passenger side of the radiator.....just a few turns....it will spew off steam, and pressure. And because of it's location over the engine outlet to rad, most of the gasses getting into the system are expelled through the vent, rather than out the overflow.

 

This helps retain you're coolant MUCH longer.

 

Thanks for the trick.

Is the bleeder screw made out of plastic?

Also is the bleeder screw on EJ25 engine(98 forester) as well?

Thanks

Can I reuse my head bolts?

what a coincidence..

 

My 90 Legacy FWD had the same problem, blown headgasket was the issue. It still sits in the driveway looking for a new owner to strip it of its good parts..

Can I reuse my head bolts?

 

Yes You can reuse Subaru head bolts. Make sure to tighten them in the proper sequence and torque.

Status Update:

My heads have been milled due to warpage. My new gaskets are here, and I bought a new torque wrench. So now I'm ready to start putting everything back together. I would welcome any tips or advice.

I do have one question. Do I need to do anything to the new headgaskets before installing them?

http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=79989

http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=91334

So I got everything put back together, fired the thing up. it ran for about 10 seconds (a bit roughly) and then got REALLY rough and jerky and died. i try starting it back up and something is definitely wrong. Jerky as heck, smells strongly of gas, and there is exhaust everywhere. Did I do something wrong with the timing belt? Any tips on doing the timing belt correctly? Also, the timing belt tensioner is a big pain in the behind. Is there an easy way to take that on and off?

 

EDIT:

Also, what is this?

Edited March 18, 200917 yr by rolerick