I realize some have posted you do not need spec tools for the timing belt, but just how do you manage to set the correct torc on the pulley when you get it all back together--assuming you can get it off? I had thought purhaps the chain vice grips?

 

as well, how much more work to replace the oil seal on the oil pump if I decide to do it? I am doing the water pump and the idlers from parts I ordered from FCP GROTON...under 300 USD delivered for:

 

water pump

all idlers

belt

tensioner

 

I defer to your collective subaru wisdom.

 

scott (a mere subaru tinkerer)

 

 

 

2001 legacy wagon 2.5 sohc ej252

I subscribe to the view that these tools are worth the money (if you can get them cheap), but to tighten the bolt, all you need is to jam the flywheel or the torque converter. Replacing the seals is a good idea, or at least to have them on hand in case you find a leak.

but just how do you manage to set the correct torc on the pulley when you get it all back together

 

 

What kind of transmission do you have? If it's an automatic I believe you can use the trick mentioned in this writeup:

 

http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=21715&highlight=automatic+timing+belt

 

 

If it's a manual you can leave the transmission in 5th gear. As added insurance when I did it, my son sat in the car and applied the brakes while I torqued the crank pully nut.

 

 

as well, how much more work to replace the oil seal on the oil pump if I decide to do it?

 

 

There is no seal per se on the oil pump (or has it changed since my '95?!!). It is a good idea to take the oil pump off to check the screws holding the backing plate to the pump body--use loctite and re-tighten them if loose. Then re-install with a new o-ring and the proper sealant.

 

The main crank seal is right there in the middle of the oil pump. If you need to replace it I believe they recommend doing it after the pump has been reinstalled.

 

Good luck!

The DOHC is a pain getting it lined up and in place without the tools. I once saw the tools on eBay for over 200 bucks. It took me a few hours to get it lined up. For me it was not worth the money for tools. The SOHC is very easy. Once you get the belt on and the tensioner in place, you jam the flywheel with a screwdriver and torque away included the cams. I torque everything at that time

If you do want any special tools, make sure to check out subaru.spx.com Some stuff might be cheaper on eBay but SPX makes the genuine Subaru special tools.

When I did the belt on my 98 Outback (manual tranny) I recall sitting in the car and holding the brakes so the car wouldn't rock while my dad tightened it down. Same as what Olnick described.

 

I'm not sure how I got it off exactly at the time, chain grips or something like that. Pain in the butt if I remember correctly, but it came off.