Can I get a procedure on the exact steps to removing the cylinder heads for HG replacement. This is on an Outback 2.5l DOHC.

Edited May 13, 200916 yr by 98sub2500leg

Search here for endwrench.com articles - or search there yourself(I never have much luck searching on Endwrench even thought I know what I'm looking for exists there).

 

The re-assembly is even more critical and complicated.

Is Endwrench a subscription only site? I have never been able to access it without first paying unless someone sent a link.

 

The end of the head bolts seem to have a propietary socket. Is this a Subaru special socket I can buy?

 

Also, it would be helpful in knowing the coolant drain plugs hex head size.

14mm 12 point IIR - I pulled it out of another set and keep it on my cart.

 

You can actually fond free stuff on endwrench - but I have a helluva time.

 

That's why I suggested searching here for the links.

 

I've NEVER needed to know the coolant plug size - wonder why you feel you need to mess with it, or are referring to something else?

Since there was oil in the coolant I want to get all of it out before replacing the HG's. Seems easier to drain it all out now while the engine is out on the stand instead of reinstalling and flushing it later.

Thanks for the socket sizing on the heads. I have the TB ready in position and ready to remove. The marks are lined up. Of the 5 mark positions, most line up pretty dead nuts except for 2 separate sets of double marks that don't line up quite exact. They are a degree or two off, close but not exact.

The car ran great though, before not sure if it was adjusted properly after the last TB change at the dealer but from what I have read, this can be normal (the marks not aligning dead nuts).

To remove the pullys A Subaru mechanic at the dealer told me to hold each pully by hand and use a impact wrench to loosen each bolt. Does this sound right?

I was also inquiring on the service tool Endwrench suggests to lock the cams so they don't move when removing the TB pullys. they told me it is only needed when the belt is changed in the car. Endwrench suggests to use it though. The guy said it is not a big deal if the cams move, he said you can move them back and having the valves hit is not an issue when slightly hitting if the cams do move. Seems safer using the tool. Doesn't look like many others have used it though, not sure what to think.

After the TB is removed what is the best way to remove the cam spocket bolts without having the cams moving?

 

Also, it would be helpful in knowing the coolant drain plugs hex head size.

 

14mm, if I recall. When I did an an engine swap, the rebuilt came with a fitting for an oil cooler that my car doesn't have. Had to swap the fitting with the plug from the old engine.

Also, it would be helpful in knowing the coolant drain plugs hex head size.

 

Head bolts use a regular 12 point 14mm socket.

 

That drain plug is best left alone. It is super tightly sealed in there. You will drain that passage entirely when the heads come off.

Got both heads off, sent them in for pressure check, cleaning & machining.

The HG failed on both sides, but keep in mind I was told nearly 6 yrs ago I needed new HG's (that was at 60k miles, now have 108k miles). The head had only a minute warp on the ends.

Now I know I have a good set of heads. I plan on picking up the gaskets, engine seals, TB,ect............

The guy said it is not a big deal if the cams move, he said you can move them back and having the valves hit is not an issue when slightly hitting if the cams do move. thread insert helicoil