tbcboo Posted May 24, 2009 Share Posted May 24, 2009 So I just put up my '84 subaru GL for sale that has ran great since I've had it. I hadn't driven it in about a week and went out yesterday to take her for a drive. Started up pretty well and then a few blocks from my house it died while I was braking to come to a stop sign. I tried starting it over and over and it wouldn't quite make it. It turns over and the electrics work but it just won't quite catch the start up point. I ended up coasting into a church parking lot and then towing it with my other subaru back to the house with some tow rope. Its the carborated 3spd Auto. Ran just fine before and even started up after a week of no driving and then stalled while coasting. Anyone know the problem? I just put it up for sale in here and now this happens:confused: I needed the money too. I don't know much about mechanics. HELP!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted May 24, 2009 Share Posted May 24, 2009 Unfortunately it could be many things and without gathering more information we really aren't going to be able to help you. You need three things for combustion: Air Spark Fuel Being that it simply stalled and was running fine prior, lets assume that it's mechanically sound.... The first one is easy - check the air filter. Is it oil soaked or extremely dirty? If so remove it and see if the engine starts. If not move on to Spark and Fuel. Check the plugs and make sure you are getting power to the coil. Remove a plug boot, insert a paper clip or extra plug and see if there is a nice hot spark when you place the electrode or clip near a ground (engine block or head). If you have both air and spark, then you need to verify that you are getting fuel. A simple test is to pour a thin stream of gasoline down the carb (you have a can for your lawnmower right?) while cranking it. If it starts for a few seconds you have a fuel delivery problem. Check these items and get back with us. We must have more information to help you. GD Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tbcboo Posted May 24, 2009 Author Share Posted May 24, 2009 Definitly mechanically sound before this I'm guessing the air filter is the one in the carborator? If so that is nice and clean since I replaced it not that long ago. Like I said I don't have much experience with these older engine or mechanics. Air = Check OK I'll try and check the other 2 today. I'm a little confused about checking the spark, but otherwise the gas seems easy. CAN YOU GIVE ME A LITTLE MORE DETAIL ON THE SPARK? By pouring it in you mean in the middle of the carb where that hole is? Just seems so wierd it started up and then stopped. Wierd. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted May 24, 2009 Share Posted May 24, 2009 Double check the filter irregardless of when it was last replaced. A clogged PCV system can soak them with oil in only a few miles. You do want to pour the gas directly into the carb - yes that's the hole in the middle under the air filter cover. No more than about a 1/4" stream for a couple secconds or you will flood it. The spark is easy - you just pull off a plug wire and insert a paper clip with one leg straightened out into the plug boot. Then you hold it near a ground while cranking the engine (two people). You will see a spark jump from the clip to the ground. Don't touch the clip while you are doing this or you will get shocked. GD Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tbcboo Posted May 24, 2009 Author Share Posted May 24, 2009 (edited) Well I went out to start it just now and it started up!!! (IT STALLED ON ME YESTERDAY EVENING) The fuel filter is new, but I noticed yesterday there was no fuel in the filter and now today when starting the little reservoir is full of fuel with the filter. Normal? I also adjusted the idle a little higher since it was pretty low via that little screw under the carb somebody told me about. Is that ok? I noticed when I put the gear into drive the RPM's drop significantly from about 1200 down to 600 or so and jump just a little bit if left in drive with the brake on. Any solution? I'm too nervous to take it for a spin and then have to tow it back again with the rope. My neighborhood is kinda flat, but hilly. When you talk about the spark you mean the distributor or plugs? If its the plugs where are those? Sorry for my lack of mechanics but I do appreciate the help:) Edited May 24, 2009 by tbcboo Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted May 25, 2009 Share Posted May 25, 2009 Pull the wire on the plug end. Just follow the wire from the distributor to any of the 4 plugs. Obviously you have spark now though since it's running. The nature of problems that are transitory is that it is going to be difficult for someone with no in-depth knowledge of internal combustion engines to postulate on the possible causes because by the time you come back to it the problem has dissapeared. It sounds like possibly a choke issue. Check all your fuses to start with. Pull each one out and see if any are blown. GD Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tbcboo Posted May 25, 2009 Author Share Posted May 25, 2009 Ok I'll check the fuses. Would they be burnt looking if they were bad? Also...what is the choke? I drove it around this evening and no problems. It idles really smooth most of the time, but if I'm sitting in Drive with the brake on for awhile it likes to drop down to around 500rpm and feel less stable. I had it posted at $1200, considering its excellent condition (well besides this now), but I think I'll put it up cheaper and say there may be a possible problem. Going out of town tomorrow, but I'll check the fuses on Tuesday:) Thanks General:banana: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted May 25, 2009 Share Posted May 25, 2009 (edited) Ok I'll check the fuses. Would they be burnt looking if they were bad? Sometimes. They are made transparent so you can see the element inside them. If the fuse is blown there will be a break in the element and often a burnt looking spot on the plastic. You can also check them with a circuit tester - that's just a probe with a light bulb and a battery that will light up if the fuse is good or not light if it's bad. You can pick up a circuit tester at harbor frieght for less than $5. Very useful for things like this. Also...what is the choke? Well - it does two things. When the engine is cold, gasoline (which only ignites as a vapor) tends to condense into liquid droplets (which do not ignite) on the cold cylinder walls. Much like moisture from the air condenses on the outside of your cold beer can. Same effect. Until the engine warms up and this condensing of the fuel ceases, the engine needs extra fuel to compensate for the condesation losses. The choke provides this extra fuel by restricting the air supply to the carburetor. Think of the carb as a metering device for fuel and air - the engine's vacuum sucks in fuel and air through the carb and depending on how the carb is setup (jetting, etc), the posistion of the throttle (gas pedal), and the posistion of the choke, you will get different ratio's of air to fuel. Ideal ratio's for combustion are around 14.7:1, but when the engine is cold it may need 10:1 or less for proper operation. Thus the choke restricts air flow and thus decreases the ratio of air to fuel. At the same time it also increases the idle speed to insure the engine warms up in a timely manner and runs smooth durring the warm-up period. It is an elecric device and so is provided 12v from one of the fuses. It may not immediately be clear which fuse operates the choke so I reccomend you check them all to be sure. I drove it around this evening and no problems. It idles really smooth most of the time, but if I'm sitting in Drive with the brake on for awhile it likes to drop down to around 500rpm and feel less stable. I had it posted at $1200, considering its excellent condition (well besides this now), but I think I'll put it up cheaper and say there may be a possible problem. Is that with the parking brake on or with your foot on the brake pedal? GD Edited May 25, 2009 by GeneralDisorder Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tbcboo Posted May 25, 2009 Author Share Posted May 25, 2009 Thanks for the info...sounds like I can check that stuff. Thats with me holding the brake pedal down with my foot while in drive. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted May 25, 2009 Share Posted May 25, 2009 Thats with me holding the brake pedal down with my foot while in drive. Interesting. You might have a bad vacuum brake booster. Try doing the same thing but using the E-Brake instead of the brake pedal and see if it still does the low idleing thing. If it doesn't I would be willing to bet your brake booster is leaking. GD Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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