So I'm in the process of pulling back the transmission and need to get the cv joints apart. What swize bolt is that on the wheel? 36mm?

 

Also, once that one bolt is removed, what else needs removed?

 

I've been following this guide here: http://offroadingsubarus.com/driveshaft_axle_removal.html

 

but it lacks pics.

more info - not sure what you're trying to do. drop trans? replace axle? take something else apart?

Trying to remove the transmission from the engine to get to the oil separator plate. I have all of the exhaust removed and the drive shaft out, but I read online I have to remove the CV joints from the wheels to get the transmission backed up away from the engine.

Oh no, that's why details are important. There's a much simpler way. Leave the axles connected at the hub side and just pull them off the transmission. No need to remove the axle nut.

 

The easiest way to do it is to loosen both of the bottom strut mount bolts. Remove the top one and leave the bottom one in. Pull the hub out and it will "rotate" on the bottom strut mount bolt - pulling the axle right off the trans (assuming you knocked the pin out of course!!)

 

Keep in mind that upper strut mount bolt is your camber bolt and affects alignment, so mark the HEAD (not the nut - it's not cambered, the bolt is ) relative to the strut body. It's not a machine shop exercise, so don't get all crazy over it.

 

Once the wheel is off you only need to remove the top strut mount bolt, loosen the lower nut and knock the pin out on the transmission side and off comes the axle - takes a few minutes, that's it.

 

I've even removed the axle from the trans without removing the wheels or messing with anything, just knocking the axle pin out. But that's a real pain and not easy to do, everything has to be lined up just perfect for it to come off.

Oh no, that's why details are important. There's a much simpler way. Leave the axles connected at the hub side and just pull them off the transmission. No need to remove the axle nut.

 

The easiest way to do it is to loosen both of the bottom strut mount bolts. Remove the top one and leave the bottom one in. Pull the hub out and it will "rotate" on the bottom strut mount bolt - pulling the axle right off the trans (assuming you knocked the pin out of course!!)

 

Keep in mind that upper strut mount bolt is your camber bolt and affects alignment, so mark the HEAD (not the nut - it's not cambered, the bolt is ) relative to the strut body. It's not a machine shop exercise, so don't get all crazy over it.

 

Once the wheel is off you only need to remove the top strut mount bolt, loosen the lower nut and knock the pin out on the transmission side and off comes the axle - takes a few minutes, that's it.

 

I've even removed the axle from the trans without removing the wheels or messing with anything, just knocking the axle pin out. But that's a real pain and not easy to do, everything has to be lined up just perfect for it to come off.

 

I cant even find the pin the way it is now. Where is it at? I was under the car for about 20 minutes feeling around and looking for it. Never saw the pin.

pin is about an inch from the end of the axle on the trans side. on that inner face so to speak, that flattened area. wipe it/clean it and get some light down there, you're missing it. it's thinner than a pencil. it's like looking for your valve stem, if it's taking you 20 minutes to find it something is seriously wrong.

 

i'm just trying to figure this out since i can't tell what you're doing, so don't be offended, but have you ever done this before and do you know what you're looking for in terms of an "axle pin"? just making sure, sometimes things are much harder the first time around.

pin is about an inch from the end of the axle on the trans side. on that inner face so to speak, that flattened area. wipe it/clean it and get some light down there, you're missing it. it's thinner than a pencil. it's like looking for your valve stem, if it's taking you 20 minutes to find it something is seriously wrong.

 

i'm just trying to figure this out since i can't tell what you're doing, so don't be offended, but have you ever done this before and do you know what you're looking for in terms of an "axle pin"? just making sure, sometimes things are much harder the first time around.

 

yup. The axle pin is in this pixture:

 

But the thing is, I don't see that section of the joint. That section looks like it's going into the transmission. I'll try and get pics tomorrow.

ah okay, you're talking about the passengers side right?

 

knock those out from the top, the exhaust is in the way from underneath...well, you said you removed the exhaust - all of it or just the rear parts? that's probably the issue, you just can't see it. remove the air box and intake tube. sometimes you can do it with those in place but being your first time and you never said what vehicle, just take it off.

 

looks like you ahve a long punch, those are perfect for knocking that one out from under the hood. if you don't have a long punch, put a socket extension backwards over a short punch to extend it.

vehicle is a 96 legacy outback (ej22)

 

It's the passenger side AND driver side where I cant see the pins. But I'll tripple check tomorrow.

Just get further under the car, with light, and a rag, you'll see them.

 

Passengers side easiest through engine bay, drivers side from underneath.

found them! Had to rotate the wheel (duh!)

 

Now what size shaft do you guys recommend I use to get it out? Hardware store here has various sizes, and I dont have anything to gauge the size with.

found them! Had to rotate the wheel (duh!)

 

now what size shaft do you guys recommend i use to get it out? Hardware store here has various sizes, and i dont have anything to gauge the size with.

 

3/16

3/16

 

Wow. That was a fast reply. How do you guys know the sizes? Is it in the manual? I went to autozone yesterday for a manual and browsed through it. It didnt have anything for removing the transmission or CV joints. It was simply a maintenance manual.

How do you guys know the sizes?

 

This board has more information available than any manual. A simple search will reveal almost anything you need to know.

How do you guys know the sizes? Is it in the manual?

 

we all benefit from other peoples trial and error, 1/4 inch will get stuck in the hole and then you are just a stones throw from "fubar".

After 2 trips to the hardware store, I got a steel welding rod that got the passenger side pin out.

 

Now where's this lower strut bolt? I'm looking at the strut as it comed down to the wheel, and there's 2 bolts. Got the lower one I THINK is the lower strut bolt soaking in liquid wrench so I'll be easier to get off.

 

-edit-

bleh. Went back and re-read this post. Instructions were to remove BOTH lower strut bolts. Soaking bolts now with liquid wrench and will work on the drivers side pin now.

here's one write up, seach for axle replacement or trans removal and you will likely find others.

 

http://www.lovehorsepower.com/SubaruDocs/CVBoot.htm

Yep, the method outlined in that link is the way to go. However, I found there to be enough play to pull the half shaft off the stub shaft by removing just the front bushing bolt for the transverse link ("through bolt" in link).

GRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRR. Just bought a 36mm (actually, 1 1/2" since they were sold out of 36mm) deep socket and it doesnt got the nut on the end of the wheel. What size is it?

 

yeah, maybe it is the way to go. I've been spending the past hour trying to get the strut bolts off. Even been using an impact wrench. Only King Kong will be able to get these bolts off.

 

I need to head to wal-mart and get a 4-way tire iron. The subaru didn't have a tire iron when we bought it (had the jack and spare tire, though).

sooooooo close to having full access to the transmission. anyone know what size that giant nut is on the end of the joint is?

I'm confused, the axle nut doesn't need to come off, did you read my reply above? This seriously takes like two minutes, remove the top bolt and you're done. Use a breaker bar or pipe over the end of the socket (my preferred method) to loosen it.

 

Or hit the nut with heat. PB Blaster, Liquid Wrench, or Deep Creep are also your friend if there's any corrossion.

 

Sounds like maybe you don't have good tools to work with?

 

Remove the two strut bolts. If you don't have the right tools to get those off you're going to hate life on that axle nut you're attempting to remove. Those are the hardest nuts to remove on the entire car just about. I've broken 2 1/2" sockets and a breaker bar on axle nuts - they are no joke. They require a 3/4" socket and a pipe as an extension to remove - unless you're really lucky you might get it off with a 1/2" without breaking it.

 

But it's a 32mm if you really want to do things the hard way.

Sorry, Im following like 3 different guides, so Im getting them all confused.

 

So Im back from the store and I'm trying to remove the break calipers. Any advice on that while I'm trying to get all the bolts off?

sooooooo close to having full access to the transmission. anyone know what size that giant nut is on the end of the joint is?

 

IIRC it's 1+1/4 inch, but that's almost a guess. but before you undo that nut, which is 'staked', bent, if you undo the strut bolts that connect it to the hub assembly, you may not need to do the axle nut. the stru to hub bolts are not 'gross' tight bolts, spray them and use a 24" long 1/2" breaker bar. mark them before you remove them. flop the hub outward, pull the axel with it and slide the trans end of the axle off of the trans stub.

Remove brake calipers? It helps to explain what you're trying to do. I'm trying to help but this is hard to follow, lots of tid-bits and unrelated stuff going on here.

 

It is not only pointless to mess with the axle nut, frankly it's a bad idea, there's no point in disturbing the wheel seal which protects the wheel bearings...who wants to go replacing those down the road?

no offense to dave, he's tackling a job most people would pay 600 - 800$ just for the r & r not to mention the repair, but this remids me of my first , and last, attempt to take apart an alarm clock. i got some things off, but got nowhere near the complete job, not to mention the repair.

 

dave, slow down, do a lot of reading, spend 15$ on a haynes manual if you have not done that yet and search for the great trans removal descriptions that have been posted in the past. then read and re-read them until you know them. i usually have to hand write the descriptions for it to sink ino my brain. it makes for very slow going, but once i have it i can almost visualize it when i'm under the car.

 

keep reading and asking, then take the good advice given and you will get there.

 

just my opinion, no offense intended. i just hate doing things twice.

Edited July 15, 200916 yr by johnceggleston