mentis Posted August 3, 2009 Share Posted August 3, 2009 (edited) Figured it was time to give this problem it's own thread. My '87 GL-10 Turbo Wagon seems to have problems starting after the engine's warmed up. It seems to me that it's a fuel delivery problem, because the starter appears to be doing it's job. Don't have any problem starting cold, just turn the key and it starts up. Warm, I have to give it a good bit of gas to start and rev it so it doesn't die out. Though made for the rattle issue thread, you can see it having a heard time starting up in this video... The check engine light's on, which I haven't had time to get checked yet. Will do that Wednesday. I listened for the fuel pump with the engine off, and it seems to be working. Not sure how to check if this could be caused by a faulty fuel pressure reg. valve, but I read that can often cause problems. Gloyale suggested in the other thread that this could be due to a CTS. Not familiar with the acronym, but is he referring to the Coolant Temp Sensor? Since I'm not a mechanic, I don't understand how that would cause warm starting problems. Again, thanks in advance for any light you guys can shed on this issue! EDIT: Issues have been solved. See solution post on page 4 = http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showpost.php?p=849375&postcount=36 Edited August 17, 2009 by mentis Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Turbone Posted August 4, 2009 Share Posted August 4, 2009 Yes, CTS=Coolant Temp Sensor. I suggest you look up the codes on the ECU, then go from there. No sense in hunting around for something when the codes might tell you directly. Also, hearing the fuel pump run while the engine is off (key on?) isnt right either. Theres a single wire green connector by the ECU that needs to be plugged in when checking the codes. I wonder if this is connected now. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mentis Posted August 4, 2009 Author Share Posted August 4, 2009 The check engine light has come on a couple of times very briefly in the past, and with a few minutes of driving went away again. This weekend I changed fluids and put in new plugs and d.cap (still waiting on wires :-\). After that the light has been on continuously. Unfortunately I'll have to wait till Wed. to get the codes checked since I don't have that capability... So yeah, not sure why. I was pretty careful not to knock anything loose, so not sure. One thing I did notice however, is that there a little air hose that's not connected right under the turbo air intake duct. I'll attach a pic. Not sure how long it's been like that, probably a long time, but the end of it seems to be plugged with some clear plastic stuff (silicone maybe). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Turbone Posted August 4, 2009 Share Posted August 4, 2009 The hose is supposed to go to the square looking thing right under it. Its one of the sensors and usually the nipple breaks off. And you can check the codes, I believe I gave you the link in another thread. Just pull off the panel under the steering column and you will see a flat square unit. Thats the ECU. On the side theres a little hole, inside that theres a red LED. Connect the green connector, turn the key on (dont start) and watch the blinks. The link I gave you has the procedure for reading the codes. Simple. Do it. Report back. Thats all. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mentis Posted August 4, 2009 Author Share Posted August 4, 2009 Oh... LOL! Alrighty then!!! . And here I thought you needed a fancy computer to plug into it . I do have a Haynes manual which lists the codes I think as well. Love how it also leaves out a ton of info, but that's beside the point. I will check the codes tomorrow as it's getting late... I already got the cover off down there to try and find the malfunctioning turning signal unit. It's a mess there . P.S.: What about that metal pipe right next to the hose that's also got nothing attached? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Turbone Posted August 4, 2009 Share Posted August 4, 2009 I'm not sure what the metal line is, I dont have this intake on my RX anymore. I might be able to look at one I have laying around, but no guarantees on knowing where it goes. Heres the link to the codes. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=49918 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mentis Posted August 4, 2009 Author Share Posted August 4, 2009 Thank you again! You've been a tremendous help. I will be checking them codes tomorrow morning . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mentis Posted August 4, 2009 Author Share Posted August 4, 2009 I checked the codes and good news! At least I think so . The code displayed was 10 10 1, which is 21. And that's the CTS. So whoever suggested that first, congratulations... you win a prize . Since I'd like to get this fixed ASAP, I think I'll just try to track down at CTS on my own. But for clarity purposes, I'd like to make sure I'm getting the right unit. I'm assuming it's the unit in the first photo, but I want to make sure it's not the sensor in the second photo. Thanks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gloyale Posted August 4, 2009 Share Posted August 4, 2009 It's the one in the first picture. It is worth installing a new connector on those wires as well. It is a resistance based sensor, so extra resistanc e from corrosion affects the readings. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Turbone Posted August 4, 2009 Share Posted August 4, 2009 Yeah, the main culprit with this sensor is corrosion. Cleaning the contacts and replacing the terminals on the wires will usually clean up the code. Check the wires too. If they are hardened, go back to where they are pliable and replace with new wire from that point. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mentis Posted August 4, 2009 Author Share Posted August 4, 2009 Absolutely, I was planning on replacing some wiring if there's any corrosion anyway . And since I got things dismantled a bit under the dash anyway, now's a good time to replace that broken flasher unit. Interesting that those relays have "Mitsuba" on them. Is that some kind of crazy Mitsubishi Subaru joint venture? lol... Tangential question: also found the Wiper Control unit. Would this be responsible for wipers getting stuck while in "delay" mode some of the time, or is that most likely a motor issue. Not a big enough problem to worry about right now though... Turbone, if you have any leads on what that metal line by the turbo intake is I'd love to know. And you said that the hose goes to the square unit right there... what is that unit for? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mentis Posted August 4, 2009 Author Share Posted August 4, 2009 Got a new CTS, and was just curious if I should use aything to clean it like alcohol or acetone. Wasn't sure if those fluids would have an adverse reaction to the brass (I presume) sensor though... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
erik litchy Posted August 4, 2009 Share Posted August 4, 2009 Got a new CTS, and was just curious if I should use aything to clean it like alcohol or acetone. Wasn't sure if those fluids would have an adverse reaction to the brass (I presume) sensor though... wire brush is fine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mentis Posted August 4, 2009 Author Share Posted August 4, 2009 Alrighty, will do. I am going to need to replace the connector too. Thanks to 91sub in his thread (http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=101965) I was able to easily find the right one online (a Bosch or Dorman/Motormite Nr. 85850). Too bad I'm going to have to wait several days in order to get this in the mail... . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Niku-Sama Posted August 5, 2009 Share Posted August 5, 2009 a little trick with corrosion thats kinda long term temporary is crack open a soda and pour it on and then rinse and blow dry Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mentis Posted August 5, 2009 Author Share Posted August 5, 2009 LOL... does it have to be coke? Cause I heard that works wonders on taking off corrosion and rust... Even heard it brings engines back to life if you soak them in coke, but that might be an urban myth . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
presslab Posted August 5, 2009 Share Posted August 5, 2009 When you replace your CTS you should put some dielectric grease (plumbers grease) around the contacts so it won't corrode so easily. Make sure the connector boot is good too and if not fix it up with some sealant. I've had a hard start problem with my EA82T and it turned out to be leaky injectors. Sounds like the CTS will fix your problem. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mentis Posted August 5, 2009 Author Share Posted August 5, 2009 Thanks for the tip. Can you get that grease at the auto part store, or the hardware store? And do I put it right on the contacts of the CTS as well? Connector boot should be fine since I'm getting a new one... And yeah, I sure hope it does fix the problem. I guess we'll find out though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
presslab Posted August 5, 2009 Share Posted August 5, 2009 Thanks for the tip. Can you get that grease at the auto part store, or the hardware store? And do I put it right on the contacts of the CTS as well? Connector boot should be fine since I'm getting a new one... And yeah, I sure hope it does fix the problem. I guess we'll find out though. Either place, the hardware store is cheaper. The auto parts store sells dielectric grease for spark plug wires. The grease at the hardware store for plumbing is very similar, it's just silicone grease. Just squirt some into the connector terminals, you can be a little generous. You can put some on the CTS contacts as well. The "dielectric" in dielectric grease means that it won't conduct electricity. This is good otherwise it will mess up your CTS reading to the computer and it will be confused. The grease will seal out any water that finds it's way into the connector so it won't corrode. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mentis Posted August 5, 2009 Author Share Posted August 5, 2009 That's what I figured, I just hadn't used it before so I wanted to be sure. Thanks for the info, I'll pick some up today . Now if only that eBay seller would hurry up and ship the damn connector! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mentis Posted August 5, 2009 Author Share Posted August 5, 2009 (edited) Since we've already touched on this in this topic, I was hoping that someone here might know that this other mysterious little unit is right under the turbo intake duct (red arrow). The disconnected hose and the metal line (yellow arrows) both are supposed to hook up to this I think, but both plastic connections on the unit are broken. It has a couple of wires going to it on the left side that you can't see here. EDIT: Aha! Actually found info on this in the Haynes manual! That would be the EGR Solenoid Valve. Probably good to have that working maybe? Edited August 5, 2009 by mentis Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Turbone Posted August 5, 2009 Share Posted August 5, 2009 Its the auxiliary air valve. It should have 2 lines, one from the intake manifold and the other from the intake plenum. I still havent looked at the intake I have to figure out the metal line. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mentis Posted August 5, 2009 Author Share Posted August 5, 2009 The photo is taken from the back of the turbo intake duct. It was my understanding that the AAV is in the front of that duct, and has an electrical connector just like the CTS on top. If my understanding is correct, then the unit in the photo above, and according to my Haynes manual, is in fact the EGR solenoid valve. I haven't ever gotten a code regarding the AAV or the EGR-SV. I guess it must not matter much that the latter isn't connected. However, that valve does have two plastic connectors on it that are broken off, so I do believe that that's where they go. Otherwise, the metal line might be part of the fuel injection system in which case I would have fuel spraying on top of my engine . So that's obviously not it... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mentis Posted August 7, 2009 Author Share Posted August 7, 2009 Turbone, I pulled that part today since I'm trying to replace it (gpilot might have one), and took these photos. So, just for reference... Again, I believe this should be the EGR Solenoid Valve... http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showpost.php?p=846576&postcount=48 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Turbone Posted August 7, 2009 Share Posted August 7, 2009 Turbone, I pulled that part today since I'm trying to replace it (gpilot might have one), and took these photos. So, just for reference... Again, I believe this should be the EGR Solenoid Valve... http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showpost.php?p=846576&postcount=48 Yup, thats it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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