subyboy Posted September 1, 2009 Author Share Posted September 1, 2009 (edited) It's cable operated. Strange thing is, clutch pedal feels completely normal when it happens. And no matter how many times I put the clutch in and out, it still won't go into gear unless the engine is switched off... Oh, and by the way, with the engine running, I was able to use the dual range selector (Hi-Lo) but no other gears. Edited September 1, 2009 by subyboy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nipper Posted September 1, 2009 Share Posted September 1, 2009 If its the original clutch cable i would replace it even if the clutch is tired. This is much easier to do then the clutch itself, and can give similar symptons right before it snaps. nipper Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fairtax4me Posted September 2, 2009 Share Posted September 2, 2009 Your clutch could be getting ready to shred itself. Does this happen after it has rained? You know how to test the clutch right? Pull up to a tree... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
subyboy Posted September 2, 2009 Author Share Posted September 2, 2009 Nipper: not sure if it's the original cable. I did just disconnect it to operate it by hand in order to get a better feel and it feels fine. I'll be sure to replace it if I get the clutch done, though. Fairtax: rain doesn't seem to make any difference. Actually, I think it's only happened during dry weather. But I'm afraid you might be right, my clutch might be about to destroy itself. If the same thing happens again (no gear when engine on but ok with engine off) I will get the clutch done. Not sure what you mean about how to test the clutch. Push against a tree and see if I can feel it slip??? Clutch still feels very strong and 'grabby', if you know what I mean. Cheers. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lostinthe202 Posted September 2, 2009 Share Posted September 2, 2009 (edited) But if one of the gear forks was damaged/jamming, how come I can't get any gears (except maybe reverse). If a fork was jamming, wouldn'it affect 1st/2nd or 3rd/4th only? While there are different forks, there is just one "finger" on the end of the shift rod that pushes the fork around. ...but I couldn't work out how to move it sideways. ... The sideways, or twisting motion to get to the next set of gears is really very slight, like a degree or two motion on the rod, then for 5th reverse you have to depress a spring, it can get tricky but you should be able to find each gear. I had a similar problem on my '96 with a manual trans and when I pulled the trans, the clutch fork had split at the pivot ball. The result was that when I depressed the clutch, not all of the motion was transfered to the pressure plate. Instead the fork was just bending in at the pivot. The clutch action felt normal, it just wouldn't shift. I was not able to see this from looking inside the fork hole unfortunately, I didn't find it until I had the engine out. However, mine was paired with a grinding noise when I push the clutch pedal in which was caused by the split in the fork cutting across the surface of the pivot ball. If yours managed to crack someplace besides the pivot, you wouldn't hear anything. If your clutch is fine otherwise (not chattering really bad, not slipping) you could probably slide the engine and trans far enough apart to get the fork off and replace it. Be sure to get new clips from the dealer to hold the throwout bearing onto the fork. Good luck! Will- Edited September 2, 2009 by lostinthe202 add info Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fairtax4me Posted September 2, 2009 Share Posted September 2, 2009 Not sure what you mean about how to test the clutch. Push against a tree and see if I can feel it slip???Clutch still feels very strong and 'grabby', if you know what I mean. Yeah people used to test clutches by pulling the car up to a big tree, set the parking brake put it in 4th gear and rev the engine then rip out the clutch. If the car stalled right away the clutch was good. Not such a good idea on newer cars though, plastic bumpers don't hold the car back as well as the old steel bumpers did. Instead what you can do is drive down the road at about 40 mph in 4th gear. Push the clutch in rev the engine and rip it back out. Engine speed should go right back to normal cruising speed in that gear almost instantly. If the engine "rides" back down before clutch grabs then it's probably pretty close to needing replacement. A broken or cracked release fork is also a possibility as Lost has suggested. But either way I think its gonna come down to removing the engine or trans to get a better look at things. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Log1call Posted September 3, 2009 Share Posted September 3, 2009 It sounds like a clutch problem now, though it didn't at the start. Since it's been intermittent, and the clutch feels fine, it may not be the clutch operation but the spigot bearing jamming intermittently, then spinning again other times. If you have the clutch out make sure you check that bearing! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
subyboy Posted September 3, 2009 Author Share Posted September 3, 2009 Thanks everyone, it all sounds very interesting. Even though I suspect a dodgy clutch fork or spigot bearing, I'll probably test the clutch anyway. If it feels fine, I'll have to decide whether to try and have a look at the fork by sliding trans and engine apart or pull it all out. That said, the clutch's got about 50k miles and the timing belt needs doing so I'll probably bite the bullet, pull the engine out and get both the clutch and T-belt replaced in one go. Cheers everyone, will keep you posted once I've got it sorted. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
subyboy Posted September 20, 2009 Author Share Posted September 20, 2009 Yep, the mystery of the on/off clutch has been solved. As per the attached picture, a small bit of the clutch plate had broken off and would sometimes get jammed between the clutch plate and the flywheel, keeping them spinning even though I was pushing the clutch in. Makes sense now why it wouldn't go into gear. (Why it didn't go into gear even with the engine off the first two times it happened I still don't know: wind up in the gearbox maybe?) It jammed again at the worst possible moment: as I was moving houses. So I dumped the car, only to get a call from a worker saying I had to move it as they were doing roadworks there the next day. :mad: Tow truck took it to the mechanic who couldn't fault it! I told him to open the clutch to have a look and there it was. $800 later it's all fixed and feels great. Thank you all for the input, it's been much appreciated. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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