Log1call

There is a small plastic clip holding the lock operating rod to the door. That clip is meant to provide enought friction that operating the inside door handle will not make the rod move and lock the door. When the friction clip gets worn there is enough friction between the handle and the lock handle to make the lock go on when you open the door with the inside handle. I have fixed a few by glueing a small piece of polystyrene foam to the door between the door and the lock rod to provide friction. Hope that is understandable, hopefully it will be when you get into the door and try working the door handle a few times and see what happens.

Ha, and perhaps that is lipstick on Badbrian's photo?

Have you checked fo trouble codes? It could also be the temp sensor? While you are in there you could check all the pipes and retorque the valve bodies. They can work loose(or perhaps they don't get tightened properly). Preferably remove the bodies and tighten the bolts on top as well, or, just check the ones from the bottom and if there were several loose then pull the valve body and do the lot.

That theory is wrong Nipper. If you have a hole in something(a washer say) and you heat the washer the hole in the washer will behave the same way as the material that is not there would have behaved, so the hole gets bigger. Think about fitting a ring gear Nipper. What do you do? What happens? The only exception is if you have a large block of metal and you only heat it locally around or near the hole, then the material can distort and expand into the hole due to being hemmed in by the cold and unexpanded material..

They often have a roll-pin inside a roll-pin. That makes them very tight. The outside one is about six mills and the smaller one fits inside the big one and locks it. If you punch the smaller one first with a small diameter punch it comes out easily, then you can knock the bigger one out easily as well. You put them back in big one first then the smaller one. Often they have had the small one lost or left out on purpose, then they drive out easily.

I realise you have found a different manual now and have sorted it, but, for future reference... Subaru manuals are not always consistent in the way they label pins in plugs. I'd suspect the picture you were looking at might have been a back view or a front view when you were expecting the opposite. Have a look at how thay have labeled the OBD2 plug for your car and use that to figure which way around your diagrams are. Actually, on second thought, I thnk they can change from wiring section to section in some manuals. You probably just have to check every instance you come across.

A faulty knock sensor is not going to stop the engine though! There will be water somewhere near the ignition or in an electrical connector to do with the efi.

Left and right heads can be swapped. You don't flip them over, you swing them around the front or back of the engine as it were, and they go on the other side with exhaust down but front bolt holes at rear and rear oil holes at front.

Did you grind the valves? It could have a burnt valve. Did it have leaking valves before you took it apart? If not... When you had it apart did you strip the heads and clean them? Have you checked the valve clearance?

I notice that back of a head shot has nice clean bolt holes shown. Could those bolts be meant to be at the front of the vehicle? Could you have the left and right heads swapped?

Both these problems sound like electrical. Did the wires get disconnected when the engine got changed over? The second poster should check for trouble codes from the transmission. His car sounds like it's in limp mode.

I think you need to post a picture. It sounds to me as though you have pulled the seal out of a spigot bearing. Was the seal about thirty mills in diameter? The crank seal is about one-hundred mills in diameter and it's outside of the crank's bolt holes.

Whow... Good shot Turbone! Always pays to start with the simple stuff huh?

Are you sure it needs reboring? These motors usualy have good bores forever. I'd try for a new set of rings, regrooved pistons, big-end and main bearings, valve grind, gaskets, seals and cam belt. The pump you can inspect and measure and unless it's buggered you can put it back on again, they are easy to do later.

you have a overheating transmission(well it reckons it's too hot and by the sound of that oil I'd say the clutch is burnt and it is right), and that makes the motor rev high to circulate more oil through the cooler. The MAf codes may be caused by the high idle, but I'm just guessing there. It is a complcated situation and you should go to a dealer for a diagnosis, then get a second opinion.

The shop sounds like it's bluffing really. I'd say it's your alternator that's the problem. It could well be that heat under the bonnet is a factor and why it tested ok on the bench. Your readings of nineteen volts... are you sure your gauge is accurate? Nineteen volts is mighty near enough to blow bulbs. Nineteen volts will definitly wreck your battery too. I think your alt is crook but I suspect your gauge as well to tell the truth. Perhaps it's time to try another shop.

Good work. The gauges are just an indicator really, not an accurate gauge. If it gets up to operating pressure quickly then stabilises, gets slightly hotter on a big uphill then slightly cooler than normal running temp on a long downhill it will probably be right. You also get a pretty good idea if the cooling system is operating correctly by the duty cycle of the fans when the car is idling. If the fans come on for one in three it's about right. If they are on one in two the cooling isn't working well. Some cars they come on one in four or more. Sometimes it's one minute out of four they are on, other cars seem to stay on for more than one minute but then they take longer to come on next. Probably varies a bit with the ambient air temperature. You can also tell a bit just by holding the top hose... If it's just barely too hot to hold then it's about right.

You should be able to tell if it's driveshaft or axle by the frequency. Driveshafts turn at wheel speed and driveshafts are going at about four times the revs. If you are not sure how fast the wheel goes around slap a big piece of sticky tape on the tread and you will hear it as it goes around.

You are welcome. I have been looking for photos online but there aren't many suitable ones I've seen yet. Here is a bit of an extreem one... I hope yours don't look like this, it has broken rings that have been broken for a while... http://media.photobucket.com/image/damaged%20piston%20rings/winterheating/Image1932.jpg If I can find a picture of overheated rings I'll come back. Ok, I couldn't find a picture of heated/softened rings but in that photo you can see the top ring is broken and has been for a while. Just to the right of the break there is some partial leakage, that's about what soft rings leave behind, except it extends further around the bore than that narrow strip shown there. Also, the second ring wears the carbon partialy off so you have to sort of interperate what you are seeing. I'm sure you will figure it out now that you have the idea. Hopefully you will find a nice clean carbon ring anyway. Good luck with it.

When you do the gaskets you should replace the thermostat because overheating can bugger them even if they were good before the overheating. I'd also get the radiator's top tank replaced because they can clean inside the radiator properly with it off and I'd replace it because the plastic doesn't like excessive temperatures and gets brittle at just a few degrees above normal running temperature and they do crack after an overheating... the tanks are quite cheap. When you have the heads off you should inspect the bores for signs of overheated rings or broken rings. Now this is a tricky one unless you have had some experiance with looking at ring wear marks. If the rings are good they leave a nice clearly defined ring of carbon at the top of the cylinder where they don't rub. The carbon will go right around and have a clean line where the ring has been to. If the rings have broken, they will probably be rubbing still in places and not in other places, so you get a clean cut line of carbon that extends down the bore a certain way and it will be on the left of the break say and to the right there will be a clean bore up to the usual line. If the rings have overheted they soften and stop scraping so well and you normally see a hazy film of carbon that sort of starts at the top a bit dark and then gradually fades away down the bore. Often the carbon is not dark or black but just a medium brown colour. As I say, you need to have a bit of experiance to spot the differences. Put one cylinder at a time down and give the bore a light wipe with a clean cloth. Don't rub too hard or you might rub off any tell-tale carbon. Get a light and a mirror if the motor is still in the car and have a good look all the way around the top ten mills of the bore. If you can see a nice clean line of carbon then all is probably good. If the line is interupted or if it fades away down the bore you have a potential problem and you should try and get someone to look at it for you that has seen these things before.

Not familiar with your American models but... http://pdftown.com/Pdf-eBook/Subaru.html?from=15 http://pdfdatabase.com/index.php?q=+subaru+sti+owners+manual&filetype=0 http://freepdfdownload.net/ebook/automotive/subaru http://www.finleyweb.net/JonsStuff/SubaruDocumentation/tabid/54/Default.aspx http://www.indysworld.com/80s/general/USRM/subrepair.htm

Yup that could very likely be your problem. As has been said, you could solder in new wires but they need to be coaxial wires and up to the automotive conditions, so flexinle wires, fairly thick, heat and oil proof insulation. It's probably easier to go to the wreckers and get a new/secondhand cam sensor. When you run the new wires or fit the sensor make sure it runs just where the other wire goes. The coaxial wire is to provide a shield from interference from ignition and alternator wires. Even with coaxial wires they can pick up interferance and cause problems so follow the old route carefully. Also, if they wire has actualy been "chewed" get some rat poison and stick around your car storage area... Rats can cause major damage to cars, hell, if they eat enough wires they will turn your car into a writeoff!

When the light comes on the car is probably disregarding the problem sensor and running in a failsafe mode which isn't actually as good as it should, but it's better than trying to use the faulty sensor. Fix the fault and it will probably run better than when the light is on. To fix the fault you need to download a manual and follow the diagnostic and test procedure to verify which component is faulty... That or pick up a second hand distributor and try.

My guess would be that a small piece has chipped off the ball retainer inside the C.V. joint and it occasionaly gets caught between a ball and the housing. I have seen it before. Sometimes a clean and regrease will fix it as an experimant but really the cure is to replace the C.V.

That's right Nipper. The new multi-speed autos with lock-up torque convertors get good milage and... I'd like to see anyone change as fast as an auto at full throttle.