Log1call

One test is to put a pressure gauge on the fuel rail and see if it holds pressure when the key is turned off. It doesn't prove it's a leaking injector if the pressure does drop but if the pressure holds then youy injectors are probably not leaking. The injectors could still have a bad spray pattern or be sticky when cold though. The only way to be really sure is to pull them pressurise them and look for leaks and good spray pattern.

If you have a miss-fire, leaky injector, faulty temp sensor, faulty air-flow sensor, faulty throttle position sensor, lots of things... they can set an O2 trouble code. Just because the O2 sensor is reading a rich mixture it doesn't mean the O2 sensor is faulty... Hell, that's like assuming the fuel gauge is faulty because it says empty at the end of the week!

Have you read that the rear wheels are driven more aggresively when you move the shift lever to first? If you want more aggresive power to the rear, whilst still having slip when needed and no tcu trouble codes, I'd just wire the first gear indicator on all the time on the inhibitor switch. The solenoid won't work properly with dc going into it. It's the nature of electromagnets to have more pull when they have more voltage but they still try and travel the same distance. This valve the solenoid opens is not a tapered needle that adjusts gradualy, well not very tapered anyway, so the solenoid valve is going to be very very sensitive to voltage. That's why they use a duty cycle system. I also don't think that using a resistor is going to prevent trouble codes... the tcu will detect that the slip is not occuring between front and rear and it will set a code when it can't compenstae for the problem.

Ericem, I've mentioned it before on some of your other threads about this problem you are having... The transmission temp sensor can speed up the idle and turn on the fans if the transmission is getting too hot, Assuming it is an auto that is. Is yours an auto? Have you looked into that? It could be that the transmission temperature sensor is defective.

No the jap ones are the same... fuse in puts it into 2wd. If the electrics or the solenoid fails they get diff lock and go into full rear wheel drive. There are four things that make them have no rear drive.. Burnt out clutches. No hydraulic pressure to the tail-housing. Sollenoid valve stuck open. broken clutch basket.

Dirty fuel filter? Bad connector(under the back seat) to the fuel pump. Faulty fuel pump relay?

What do you mean by "sticky"? Do the gears graunch? Is it all the gears or just some? Does it go into reverse ok? Does it get worse and worse as the revs get higher or is it fine till you try a 6000 rev change? Any noises with the clutch in? With it out? Have you checked the gearbox oil? Was it full? Do you know what grade it is? (Rhetorical questions. Just some things to think about and check)

Yeah. Well to quote from page two of your other thread... "I'd be suspecting the key switch first. If it cranks for a while then it's not likely to be the battery. The intermittent no go sounds like a key switch problem. The hard starting could be caused by the key/no start signal. The high idle could be caused by the no start." So I'd say you mate Murray will be right. Oh, by the way, your mech Murry sounds like a good guy to me. We see far too many wild guesses and hastily fitted parts that end up costing the customer money. It's a good sign that he is talking it through with you and explaining his reasoning. I don't like fitting parts till I'm sure they are the problem either and I always try and get my customers to(well the ones that can afford the time and possible inconveniance), To try things in steps, working our way through the probabilities and options. It takes good faith on the part of the customer and the mechanic but it's the better way to get to the real root of the problem and it's a hell of a lot cheaper in the long run.

I'd pull the other belts off and see if it stops the noise, then, if the noise was still there I'd use a screwdriver to my ear to listen for the noise on the plastic covers. The covers fit pretty close and if they are warped or misfitted they can touch the belt.

Clean it some more? If it's got worse it will be because you've disturbed some dirt and it's making the valve stick.

Yup, the ecu is the car's computer. You can get the trouble codes out of the computer by connection two wires under the dash. That will make the check engine light flash a code. You don't need a code reader. Have a read here and try to get the trouble codes... http://codes.rennacs.com/ Once you have the codes come back and tell us what they are and we can interperate them for you or tell you what you need to check next. Because you reckoned the mechanics code reader didn't work right I'm suspecting there will/may be a fault with power or earths to the ecu/car's computer. Try for the codes, if you can't get them then you need to check the power supply etc.

I have a bent ended pair of long nosed pliers, I use them between the boot and rack and slide them around a bit like a tyre tool. Because they are bent they can reach up over the top as well as the bottom. Perhaps you could make a special tool out of a small round rod. About 1/8 bright steel would be good. Bend the end two inches about thirty degrees(that's the used end), bent the other end inot a "U", for a handle, taper the tool end a bit and round the point so it wont dig in and you will be away.

Yup, that code will almost certainly be caused by something other than an electrical problem. Well an O2 sensor electrical problem anyway. If the O2 sensors were faulty you would get a code for the sensor itelf. That code is saying that the cat isn't cleaning the exhaust properly, a conclusion arrived at by monitoring both sensors and looking for a difference in their two readings. As long as both sensors swing through the centre of their range, and the rear one swings through a comparatively smaller range(it may be a five volt sensor) and at a slower rate, then the code wouldn't be set and the sensors would be operating correctly. Some cars use a five volt sensor but I thought those were normally on the back sensor, I may be wrong about that or they may have been reading the back as the front or vis versa. The way to test the sensors is to warm the motor, leave the sensors connected and monitor their voltage swings. The front one should swing through the centre point of it's voltage range several times a minute and the rear one should swing through a smaller range and slower. If the rear sensor isn't swinging slower than the front then the cat isn't working. Have a search through here... http://endwrench.com/main.php?smPID=PHP::search_articles.php Look in the "select a system", "fuel and emmissions"

Oh right, didn't recognise the poster. Fit the switch and that will presumably cure the no crank at all problem, then you can get back to figuring out what the "crank and crank and no start". problem is. For the crank but no start problem I'd still be suspecting that the ecu isn't getting it's crank signal when you are cranking it over. Perhaps the remote start is wired in wrong. The irregular start and irregular connection to the diagnostic connector could be power or earth to the ecu.

So what is the problem? What symptoms are you getting?

Well since you know where the trouble is approximately, why don't you wriggle things carefully, one thing at a time, instead of bashing it? That way you might find which particular thing it is that the thump is effecting. Not knocking thumping in any way here... thumping is good, but you need to be a little methodical with them.

Have you looked in a wiring diagram to see what those three things share? It could be they all share a fuse or perhaps a fusable link, perhaps an earth.

Metric studs will be availiable, go see any subaru, toyota, nissan or honda dealer. The way to repair things is to dissmantle them as far as you need to go then put them back together again making everything good as you go. In this case it sounds like take the stubs off, clean/repair all the threads, reassemble and retighten after a short run and then again after a week.

I'm glad to hear they are taking the un-needed parts back off. A scan tool plugs into a diagnostic socket and lets you read what all the sensors are reading and all the actuators are doing as the motor is running. Have a read here, perhaps you can convince one of the local mechanics to invest the forty odd dollars.... http://www.clubsub.org.nz/forum/index.php/topic,5652.0.html I'm a mechanic, if they want to pick my brains they can P.M. me.

Hi fellow New Zealander. Where in N.Z are you?(Edit)... Oh, Golden Bay. Have they checked the fuel pressure, the fuel pressure regulator and the fuel flow? Have they checked the trans neutral switch? Has anyone tried driving with a scan tool attached to the car to see what is happening? Have you asked them to remove all those bits they have fitted that weren't needed? I'm also very suspicious about the idea that the cam timing was out by two teeth. That is a long way out and would make the car run badly. Was it running bad before they changed the timing? Is it running differently now they have changed it?

I use an Elm based cable with several different free softwares. They are handy all right to read live data. There are several articles about p0440 here... http://endwrench.com/main.php?smPID=PHP::search_articles_action.php&

As far as I know the temp sensor effects top and T.C. lockup and takes measures to cool the fluid if it gets too hot. I don't think it will effect the lower gears. I'd be suspecting a valve sticking in the valve body. That is relatively common to cause these symptoms. It only takes a tiny speck of dirt or rust to make the valve jamb, then as the aluminium warms it expands at three times the rate of the steel valve and comes free. Since you have it half off I'd take the valve body off and strip and clean it. Get a diagram because there are some small ball type valves in there that sit in passages and it's tricky to figure where they go if they fall out. You can figure it by looking at the thin steel plate that goes between the two parts of the valve assembly and there will be marks where the balls have run and sat. I've done it before without a diagram. Strip it, clean it, make sure every valve slides freely and put it back together and I'll bet the problem is gone. If the gaskets look old it is safe to leave them out... lots of trans specialists do that because the gaskets can shrink and loosen in service and cause leaks. I leave them out(on the advice of a trans specialist) and have never had a problem.

Couple of things... That stuff in a bottle is for fixinng cracks in heads, it's meant to seal solid gaps that are metal to metal. The gasket is cardboard and that stuff was never intended to fix cardboard. When you buy a motor that has been run before then had the coolant drained and been left sitting for more than a few weeks(a second hand motor in other words), the cardboard head-gasket dries ot and, in my experiance they will start leaking after a couple of months. If I ever get a second hand motor for anyone I always suggest pulling the heads and doing the gaskets and inspecting the internals before fitting it. Then they know what they have and that it was worth the cost of fitting it. I'd just do the gaskets if it was me. It will be cheaper and easier than buying and swapping a motor. Get the radiator checked at the same time and change the thermostat.

Something that may interest you... http://endwrench.com/images/pdfs/LoyalInfo.pdf

Bad earth in the back lights.