Log1call

You could try testing them with an electrical gauge before buying new ones.

Try the finger on the hub as you turn the wheel, it works better than a finger on the spring. Since you can hear it at low speed it should be quite obvious. Try running up to about fifty miles an hour then swerving moderatly hard from left and right. If the sound gets noticably louder then it will be a wheel bearing rather than diff or cv joint. It will get louder when the weight of the car goes on the crook bearing. If it gets louder in both directions you may have two crook bearings. Disconnecting the cvs to turn the wheel will not be a good idea because the axle nut holds the bearings in place and keeps a little pretension on them.

Yeah those things are light. When I was young(and stupid) I could lift them by myself. If you have to use a tractor don't try using the hydraulics, they move too fast and you really need to align things just right so as to not bend the clutch. Best thing if you have to use a tractor bucket is to put it up then use a block and tackle, chain-hoist or a fenceing wire strainer of you have those over there.

You are testing correctly and I doubt that is the problem. Surely it is something you have done... it always is! Are you sure your fuel pipes are the right way around? Do you have fuel pressure? Do you have spark at the plugs? Are the plugs getting wet with fuel? Do you have compression? Check, check and recheck all your assembly work.

Ha, the worse thing that could happen is that the wheel bearing will lock-up, you'll loose control of the car and someone will be killed. The good folks on here will help you do it as cheap as possible but if you can't even afford parts then you shouldn't be driving it!

Just to elaborate on the wheel bearing test... You grab it top and bottom and push in at the top as you pull out at the bottom, then pull out at the top as you push in at the bottom. I have seen people try to push and pull the whole wheel in and out which won't show anything. If, when you rock it, there is any play from the wheel bearings then they are suspect. You can check the axle nut is tight and you can spin them and listen for a rumble. You can also drive down an empty street and swerve from side t side moderatly hard. If there is a rumbling noise that comes and goes as the car leans on one wheel or the other then that will probably be a wheel bearing. From the discription as a "hum", and an even hum, though, I'd suspect it is trye noise you have.

Leave the left front wheel on the ground and jack the right front wheel off the ground. Put the car in gear or park then try turning the right hand wheel. If it wont turn then it was just the diffaction letting it not turn. If it does turn have a look at the axle as you turn the wheel and see if the axle turns. If the axle turns then the trouble is in the diff or inner cv joint. If the axle doesn't turn then the problem is in the outer cv joint.

No offence intended Cougar. I missread/missunderstood your discription and thought it may need clarifying. It does read right to me now though that I have reread it. I must have been having a senile moment. Cheers.

The voltage check just mentioned needs to be between power and the ecu pin, not from the pin and earth. From the pin to earth there should be continuity but there won't be voltage. Second point... If you back probe the ecu, and it shows continuity to earth, then you turn the key on, and there is still continuity to earth, then the relay should operate. If the ecu was open circuit, or perhaps a high resistance to earth, then the relay would send the ecu's pin positive. Perhaps there is a high resistance in the circuit sending power to the relay. Then perhaps when you turn the key and the ecu earths it makes all the circuit, well all that is between the resistance and the ecu at least, earthed.

But if the ecu has a constant ground at the fuel pump relay pin, and that's what the relay needs to switch the pump on, it should be running the pump constantly?

Didn't you say the ecu was permanant earth? So, you are certain that your model does earth the relay, not power it? And whey you were checking it you did turn the key on and then test it within one and a half seconds right? Just checking.

It might pay to concide that it could have a burnt valve or blown piston too at those miles and seeing as it's doing it right from cold. A compression test or putting a vacumm gauge on it might show you something interesting.

Try heating the adjuster body with a gas torch.

Ah yes, the voltage is indeed meant to hover around point four five, not four point five volts. That was a slip of the tounge. The idea that it should swing several times per minute was the minimum to expect. They should indeed swing much faster and not very far if everythiing is working correctly. An analouge multimeter can detect the fast swing far better than a digital one, unless you happen to have a digital gauge with an oscilloscope function, unfortunatly not many people have either an analouge or the oscilloscope, so a digital will at least check that the change is occuring. The electrical check is, in my opinion, the better test of the O2 sensor because the figures we get out of the ecu are calculations, which can be faulty. Then again, they are the figures the ecu is controlling the motor with, so, for testing the O2 sensor I think the electrical test is better, but to test the O2's interaction with the motor the ecu reading is probably the better and more relevant procedure. The O2 does need to be attached to the wiring when we are testing it, whichever way we are doing it, and the motor must be warm, which puts it into closed loop, not open loop. The O2 code can and often is set because the ecu can not keep the A/F ration within the desires range. Missfiring for instance can set it. As with all the trouble codes, it is the ecu that detects, calculates or deduces there is a problem with some component. All the trouble codes are an aid to diagnosis and need to be interperated and tested before replacing parts. Hope that clarifies and confirms what OB99W has said. Basically he is correct.

Fuses. Fuseable links. trouble codes. "D" mode test. Power to ecu. Main relay. Go here... http://cid-4ca3c3459aaa7f7f.skydrive.live.com/browse.aspx/.Public?wa=wsignin1.0&sa=49493339 and download "diagnostic aids for", and "Basic diagnostic". Have an over night read.

Every legacy I have seen has had the light. It's down the bottom of the display in the centre. There are usually two of them side-by-side.

If the O2 sensor can't keep the mixture within parameters, which is why most O2 codes are set, or if it gets an electrical fault like a short or open circuit, it will set a trouble code just like all the other codes. You can test an O2 sensor with a multimeter. At idle if you leave them connected to the car and connect a sensitive multimeter to them, they should cycle backwards and forwards around the point four five of a volt range. As the motor goes a bit lean the readings will drop and that causes the ecu to richen the mixture which then send the voltage up which tells the ecu to make the motor leaner again. If everything is good the swing will be several times a minute and will not vary too far from four point five volts. Some second O2 sensors use a five volt system. The procedure and operation will be the same though. Get the manual for your car and have a read if you want to work on it yourself, otherwise take it in to be put on a scanner or have the voltages read manualy. There is no need to throw parts at these cars on the basis of a guess.

Get a compression check done. Put a vacumm gauge on and check the vacumm at idle is even(not fluctuating) and high, eighteen inches of vacumm is good.

Well if you are sure it wasn't knocking when you drove it into the shop(you did drive it in right?), I'd suspect they have done something wrong and are covering their arses. The only scenerio that I can think of where they wouldn't be responsible would be if the bearings were already worn or damaged by the heat, then once you got the full compression back they started to knock. If that is what you have here, then the knock should only be very minimul and mainly when the motor is warm. If it is the bearings, checking the oil pressure will reveal it. If it's the thrusts that are worn now(which in an auto is highly unlikely), then the oil pressure will be uneffected. End float in the crank is really easy to check anyway, just lever the front pulley back and forwards. If the oil pressure is down, it still doesn't guarantee that the bearings are worn. They could have done something in the head, left pressure regulators out of the feed to the hydraulic lifters for instance(if that model has them). It could be that they have left the flexiplate bolts loose in the crank or the torque converter bolts loose. I am a mechanic and I don't work for anyone else because I don't like the lack of ethics in business. Standard practice is, if you do something wrong and it's going to cost you to put it right... lie and charge them for extra(unneeded) work and fix your stuff-up while you are at it. Being honest costs and lieing earns you more money. This has all the hallmarks of incompetence and dishonesty!

First thing I'd do was check the throttle cable isn't sticking or that there is something jamming the pedal, anything like that. Then I'd check all the small vacumm hoses on the motor. That trouble code just means that the idle speed control valve couldn't keep the revs within the desired range. That code will set if the motor is idling to high or to low for whatever reason. Since it came on suddenly, I'd doubt it's the valve. They usually just get dirty and cause a slightly erratic idle, not a real radical problem. Edit: Don't go condemming the throttle position sensor, temperature sensor or the neutral switch, they all have trouble codes of their own.

Yeah, they can really make the drive interesting when they go. I had a that had broken the cage that holds the balls in the cv, it was ok sometimes but every half mile or so it would just grab and rip the steering wheel around hard for a fraction of a second even though I was holding on real tight and going slow. The tyres were chirping and it was a real tense situation getting back to the workshop with it. It was the cv on the side it pulled to in that case. Pulled left, left cv was gone(left is off the road here in New Zealand luckily).

Strictly speaking the front sensor should post it's own code if it is faulty, but as has been said, it does influence the rear sensors operation to a degree. Since the front sensor isn't posting a code, and because the rear sensor is checking that the O2 levels after the cat are more stable, I'd suspect the cat or the rear sensor. If you could get live readings with a subaru scan tool or a laptop you could know exactly hat is happening. If you can't get a scan, then take care of all the simple things first, check for exhaust leaks, consider the ambient temperatures, check both O2 sensors with an electrical gauge. Definatly do not put the modification on the front sensor.

I'd suspect a front c.v. joint or a wheel bearing is about to cause your car to crash off the road.

Sounds like wheel bearing to me from that discription. Jack up the back end(put it on blocks), then grab the wheel at top and bottom centre and the alternatively push in with one hand and pull out with the other. I there is any play the bearing is buggered(as we say here in New Zealand). Give it a spin as well and see if it sounds noisy to confirm.

That code says it is running too rich. Check the small rubber hose is attached to the fuel pressure regulator properly and that it has no holes or crack in it.