ystrdyisgone

Correct, just use a standard ea throwout bearing.

Miles, I'll try that if there is ever a "next time." This motor is all back together and ready to go back in the car tomorrow. Except for the pesky centering pin stuck in the old shortblock..

Noticed this today as I was finishing up piecing together my 2.5L DOHC. The previous rebuilt motor had this harmonic balancer on it. It spun a rod bearing, so just swapped shortblocks. I'm nearing the end of the race, and curious if this amount of damage could cause issues. If so it's got me wondering if this little mechanical component could have caused the spun bearing?

Thanks for the input guys, I took it down to a local shop today to get some advice in person. I told him I was leaning towards using some really fine grit sandpaper with lots of wd40. He didn't see a problem with that. I tried as best as I could to do it in an angled crosshatch pattern. Didn't get them sparkling, but they were pretty smooth. At this point I don't really have the time or the money to pursue other routes so this is just gonna have to work. Hopefully it won't run into issues anytime soon.

I've been working on my latest project, a 99 outback that I got for 600 bucks with a bad rod bearing. I got a shortblock from another board member, and haven't looked at it until tonight. I was so excited to get everything all swapped onto the new block that I didn't even think to check the cylinder walls. This is what I found tonight. I scrubbed them up a bit with a scotch brite pad and some oil. This is after the scrubbing: This is as deep as I have ever been into an engine, and at this point I don't know what to do. The quicker and easier the fix the better, not really wanting to pull the pistons and re-hone. does this need a hone, or is there something else I could try first? Thanks!

might be rpholz's? edit: maybe not actually, looking closer, his gauges were all inside, he was apparently against ejs in older body styles, and also in NC

That, or you could make one. I've been contemplating fabbing up one of these doohickeys myself. I've got enough flat stock and grade 8 bolts laying around to make something work.

Dang, I'm not sure if they're the same. I know the dohc ones have a lip on the edge of the top PS and the bottom DS. The top DS sprocket looks like yours, if they're the same diameter I'm sure it would work. The bottom PS one mounts differently (not a recessed bolt like the others) so probably wouldn't work. It may, but you would also probably need the corresponding bolt (probably longer) On another note, I'd still hit up Matt(AdventureSubaru), he may have SOHC ones too.

Contact AdventureSubaru, he's got parts from two dohc's laying around.

From the pictures from the manual in the background I'm going to guess dohc 2.5

An idea for next time: wrap the old belt around the sprocket, and then apply your channel locks.

Yeah I wouldn't chance it. That's just asking for trouble. Not a question of IF it will cause problems, but a question of how long will it take to shred the belt?

I definitely thought it was a fuel issue too, but I replaced the coolant temp sensor and the iacv. I think the temp sensor did it. I read somewhere that if that sensor is malfunctioning, it will cause starting issues, as well as idle issues due to the ecu thinking the car is still cold. This would produce a richer fuel mixture, which would explain many of my symptoms. Since those two things were replaced it has been problem free!

Perhaps he's referring to an ea82 flywheel when he says "I have the larger flywheel" ?

The pictures are of the trans you are trying to identify right? If so, it has dual range, and that leaves you with only one possibility, 5MT D/R. You'll want a 4wd clutch kit for an 86 or so GL. Rockauto has many options that include pilot bearing and throwout bearing assembly. I swear by exedy, but they aren't cheap.