88Subi4x4 Posted September 12, 2010 Share Posted September 12, 2010 I was wondering if the Cv axkes were long enough to extend the lower control arms to fix Camber....? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bratman18 Posted September 12, 2010 Share Posted September 12, 2010 I was wondering if the Cv axkes were long enough to extend the lower control arms to fix Camber....? no Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
88Subi4x4 Posted September 13, 2010 Author Share Posted September 13, 2010 [/img] I was thinking off just dropping with from the top so i could fix the camber.... is this the best way to do it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bratman18 Posted September 13, 2010 Share Posted September 13, 2010 Are the lift blocks camber corrected? The top of the strut should tilt in to correct this problem Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scott in Bellingham Posted September 13, 2010 Share Posted September 13, 2010 camber can be fixed on top extension block , whats the lift? at strut and at engine crossmember? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
88Subi4x4 Posted September 13, 2010 Author Share Posted September 13, 2010 yeah i dropped it from the bottum of the strut.... i was thinking about taking 3 inchs off the bottom of my strut and putting thos 3 inches on the top with the correct angle to finx my camber.... would this work....? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bratman18 Posted September 13, 2010 Share Posted September 13, 2010 Yup it should!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
88Subi4x4 Posted September 15, 2010 Author Share Posted September 15, 2010 is it 15 degree angle on the drop blocks to correct my camber.....? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
987687 Posted September 15, 2010 Share Posted September 15, 2010 It's about 7.5 deg. of camber adjustment per inch of lift. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
88Subi4x4 Posted September 16, 2010 Author Share Posted September 16, 2010 o ok thanks that helps! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
88Subi4x4 Posted September 29, 2010 Author Share Posted September 29, 2010 I ended up dropping my front and inch to take care of some of my camber Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gloyale Posted September 29, 2010 Share Posted September 29, 2010 (edited) It's about 7.5 deg. of camber adjustment per inch of lift. NOPE. The angle of the mounting in the body of the car is fixed. Why would there be a variation on angle? so on a 10" lift I'd need 75 degrees? think about that one. No, The angle stays the same, 1 inch or 20. and it really needs to be 16-18 degrees for a standard "top" lift Now, Subi4x4, if you wnat to keep 3 inches of lower extension, and build 3" tops, I would suggest an even more serious angle, perhaps 22-24 degrees......this means you wil have some BFH work to do on the inner towers. Honestly, though, I'd just make some true 6 inch tops, with correct angle (16-18) degrees Edited September 29, 2010 by Gloyale Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
88Subi4x4 Posted September 29, 2010 Author Share Posted September 29, 2010 But yes only having a inch of angle on my cv axles will give me lets camber.... then having two..... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
88Subi4x4 Posted September 29, 2010 Author Share Posted September 29, 2010 ^ is this correct....? it seemed to minimize my camber alot.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gloyale Posted September 30, 2010 Share Posted September 30, 2010 I assume you mean subframe blocks relative to Strut extension? yes, 1 inch will give slightly better camber with your extensions, but doesn't solve it. See, what you've done is extend the length of 2 sides of a triangle. This changes ALL the geometry. Without lengthening the third side, the angle that the angles must change. This is potentially is putting a massive side load to the outside on the stuts and mounts. The new angles don't match the cast angle in the knuckle. I could see the strut buckling under, espescially if wheeling. What should be done with a lift, is to drop the entire triangle, unmodified by the amount of the lift you want. This is why making a block that moves the upper mount directly, vertically down, and blocking the subframe the same amount, maintains the original geometry. This is all theoretical really.....there may well be board members who have done 6" bottom extension without issue. they may want to chime in. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bubba3 Posted September 30, 2010 Share Posted September 30, 2010 Thats pretty funny reid since I Bought your car I have been wondering how to fix camber so it quits eating my $500 tires and im tired of rotating every week. With your lift on it with the three bolt extensions on the top of the strut how what would you suggest I do on the camber? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
88Subi4x4 Posted October 1, 2010 Author Share Posted October 1, 2010 Bubba i wish i knew how to help you i am in the process of figuring out a better way my self i will let you know or just get the blocks made with the correct angle that will fix it Reid Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bubba3 Posted October 2, 2010 Share Posted October 2, 2010 Ya im thinkin about contacting sjr and gettin some three inch blocks just for the struts, I think they are pretty inexpensive. How big are you goin on your new soob dude? Bubba Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
True2Blue Posted October 2, 2010 Share Posted October 2, 2010 (edited) It's about 7.5 deg. of camber adjustment per inch of lift. Wrong for the camber to be corrected you would need stock specs for: length of a-arm/trailing arm then the lift in inches 1 degree is normal for most cars to gain/lose due to acceleration/deceleration. positive .5 goes to the front and negitive .5 goes to the rear and accel and vise versa... since your going positive.... if you lift your rig 4" at with an a-arm measuring 28.65"long (30") your gain it 2 degrees per inch gain in wheel circumference is gain in camber when the camber degree is + or - .5 degrees or more 28.65" long arm = 2 degree gain/loss this will give you an awesome starting point for figuring out camber. after a certain degree caster comes into play but very slightly. too much camber = change in caster too much of those two = change in toe Edited October 3, 2010 by True2Blue Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gloyale Posted October 2, 2010 Share Posted October 2, 2010 (edited) 1 degree is normal for most cars to gain/lose due to acceleration/deceleration. positive .5 goes to the front and negitive .5 goes to the rear and accel and vise versa... since your going positive.... if you lift your rig 4" at with an a-arm measuring 28.65"long (30") your gain it 2 degrees per inch You don't get it. You're not accounting for the fact that the subframe drops equally to the blocks. If done right, there is NO CHANGE to the arm relative to the subframe. When you cut blocks for a lift kit, it DOESN"T matter how big you go on the lift. You match the angle of the mounting plate in the car relative to vertical. IF you match that angle, the tube will sit excactly vertical, and the geometry doens't change. 2 inch or 12 inch or 20 inch. Angle stays the same. 16 degrees for EJ (Legacy, Imp, Forrester) 17 degrees for EA82 14 degrees for EA81 22 Degrees for EA71 Edited October 2, 2010 by Gloyale Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
True2Blue Posted October 2, 2010 Share Posted October 2, 2010 (edited) You don't get it. You're not accounting for the fact that the subframe drops equally to the blocks. you gotta be ************tin me: i dont get it? i do though, very well. IF they (a -arm and strut, or trailing arm and strut) are spaced the same 4" on strut and 4" on arm (cross member) then there is no change in camber just ride height. overall suspension clearance is gained with bigger wheels . if that were the case (everything was lowered equally) there would be no added positive camber! or post about fixing it......... but there is soooooo heres your solution for finding the angle first is for the non math loving folk... use your front driver side wheel get a true (straight) edge and a protractor Vertically place the straight edge on the wheel (id does not have to be centered just flat against the wheel) Take your protractor and place it flat on the ground with its origin at the bottom of your flat edge. 90 degrees is 0 camber ONLY use 0-90 when figuring. positive camber looks like this \ / negative... / \ in your case its positive... there is an easier way no ruler or protractor just a tape measure and calculator measure from the top 'outside' face of the wheel to the ground. mark it. i use a square looks like a L. then measure horizontally from the bottom outside face of the wheel (where rubber meets the ground) along the ground to the mark you just made now devide the horizontal measurement by the vertical (in degree mode) and what your given is an inverse tangent. your camber angle... can post pics of process if need be. now you know your camber angle in degrees... How the F*** do you fix it right... well if you lengthen your arms youll be zeroing the camber out but important things wont stretch with it. the easiest way i can see this problem being resolved without leveling out your cross member is to re construct your towers (unless your tower spacers are not maxed out yet and you have play). bringing the top of your struts inward. there will be extreme angles on ball joint and axle joints but your tires wont touch clap if you catch air Edited October 2, 2010 by True2Blue Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gloyale Posted October 2, 2010 Share Posted October 2, 2010 you gotta be ************tin me: i dont get it? i do though, very well. IF they (a -arm and strut, or trailing arm and strut) are spaced the same 4" on strut and 4" on arm (cross member) then there is no change in camber just ride height. overall suspension clearance is gained with bigger wheels . if that were the case (everything was lowered equally) there would be no added positive camber! or post about fixing it......... but there is soooooo heres your solution for finding the angle first is for the non math loving folk... use your front driver side wheel get a true (straight) edge and a protractor Vertically place the straight edge on the wheel (id does not have to be centered just flat against the wheel) Take your protractor and place it flat on the ground with its origin at the bottom of your flat edge. 90 degrees is 0 camber ONLY use 0-90 when figuring. positive camber looks like this \ / negative... / \ in your case its positive... there is an easier way no ruler or protractor just a tape measure and calculator measure from the top 'outside' face of the wheel to the ground. mark it. i use a square looks like a L. then measure horizontally from the bottom outside face of the wheel (where rubber meets the ground) along the ground to the mark you just made now devide the horizontal measurement by the vertical (in degree mode) and what your given is an inverse tangent. your camber angle... can post pics of process if need be. now you know your camber angle in degrees... How the F*** do you fix it right... well if you lengthen your arms youll be zeroing the camber out but important things wont stretch with it. the easiest way i can see this problem being resolved without leveling out your cross member is to re construct your towers (unless your tower spacers are not maxed out yet and you have play). bringing the top of your struts inward. there will be extreme angles on ball joint and axle joints but your tires wont touch clap if you catch air Man you are making this hard....... But check out the part in red....... If you set the angle of your Strut Top Block to match the mounting plate in the vehicle then the TOPS NEVER MOVE OUT............Strut top mounts go exactly straight down, they stay the same width apart from eachother, and if the crossmember drop is equal, nothing in the triangle changes. The angle is 17 degrees for an EA82.......no matter what height. the only reason this poster and anyone else EVER has issues with camber is when they simply extend the strut length, via extending the bottom, or using top blocks with no angle. In this case the former. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
88Subi4x4 Posted October 4, 2010 Author Share Posted October 4, 2010 Bubba i wish i knew how to help you i am in the process of figuring out a better way my self i will let you know or just get the blocks made with the correct angle that will fix it Reid Its a 9 inch Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
88Subi4x4 Posted October 4, 2010 Author Share Posted October 4, 2010 Man you are making this hard....... But check out the part in red....... If you set the angle of your Strut Top Block to match the mounting plate in the vehicle then the TOPS NEVER MOVE OUT............Strut top mounts go exactly straight down, they stay the same width apart from eachother, and if the crossmember drop is equal, nothing in the triangle changes. The angle is 17 degrees for an EA82.......no matter what height. the only reason this poster and anyone else EVER has issues with camber is when they simply extend the strut length, via extending the bottom, or using top blocks with no angle. In this case the former. Yes but i dont want to run 9 inch top blocks that wont work so well.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
88Subi4x4 Posted October 4, 2010 Author Share Posted October 4, 2010 and yes i realize that the only way to fix it is move the top of the strut inward... and the best way to do it would be top angled blocks! but dropping my struts 9 inches they wont fit correct they hit... but i got my camber figured out thanks for the ideas! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.