Jump to content


Welcome to Ultimate Subaru Message Board, my lurker friend!

Welcome to Ultimate Subaru Message Board, an unparalleled Subaru community full of the greatest Subaru gurus and modders on the planet! We offer technical information and discussion about all things Subaru, the best and most popular all wheel drive vehicles ever created.

We offer all this information for free to everyone, even lurkers like you! All we ask in return is that you sign up and give back some of what you get out - without our awesome registered users none of this would be possible! Plus, you get way more great stuff as a member! Lurk to lose, participate to WIN*!
  • Say hello and join the conversation
  • Subscribe to topics and forums to get automatic updates
  • Get your own profile and make new friends
  • Classifieds with all sorts of Subaru goodies
  • Photo hosting in our gallery
  • Meet other cool people with cool cars
Seriously, what are you waiting for? Make your life more fulfilling and join today! You and your Subaru won't regret it, we guarantee** it.

* The joy of participation and being generally awesome constitutes winning
** Not an actual guarantee, but seriously, you probably won't regret it!

Serving the Subaru Community since May 18th, 1998!

Guest Message by DevFuse
 

Photo
- - - - -

1994 Legacy GT - Repairs & Upgrades, A Build Thread


  • Please log in to reply
103 replies to this topic

#51 Mike104

Mike104

    Subaru Fanatic!

  • Members
  • 371 posts
  • N KY

Posted 21 October 2011 - 06:48 AM

I had a similar noise from the rear on my '99 OBW when driving over bumps particularly on the highway. I replaced the rear sway bar links (worn bushings) and while it did reduce the sound a bit, it was still there. I replaced the rear struts and mounts (270k miles) and the noise is now gone.

#52 The Dude Abides

The Dude Abides

    WileE Coyote Super Genius

  • Members
  • 2,978 posts
  • West Des Moines, IA

Posted 21 October 2011 - 01:52 PM

PM sent. :cool:


I just jacked up the car and checked out the drivers side strut... it too has a broken spring! It broke right at the very first coil on the top, so the spring stayed centered on the perch OK. That's probably the reason why the car doesn't look lopsided, even though the passenger side strut has the spring broken in two spots. :rolleyes:


Hopefully this thing doesn't look like a lifted 4x4 once the suspension is fixed! :D Might not be too bad going into winter, but still... the ride height is pretty nice right now. ;)


Just get some progressive rate springs on some nice kyb struts or something like that. Would drop it about i 1 1/2 inches or so. Not bad ride qualty.

#53 Red92

Red92

    Subaru Fanatic!

  • Bronze Subscribers
  • 427 posts
  • Wisconsin

Posted 21 October 2011 - 03:03 PM

Just get some progressive rate springs on some nice kyb struts or something like that. Would drop it about i 1 1/2 inches or so. Not bad ride qualty.



Thanks. Yeah, I think I'll make some measurements, and try to determine just how much lower than stock the front end is sitting right now. I'll put it together with stock (full-height) springs for this winter, and then maybe pick up a different set of springs for next summer to get it back to this ride height. :cool:

#54 bheinen74

bheinen74

    Banned

  • Banned
  • Pip
  • 0 posts
  • central Iowa

Posted 21 October 2011 - 03:40 PM

My front end measures from concrete to fender arch about 26"

#55 Red92

Red92

    Subaru Fanatic!

  • Bronze Subscribers
  • 427 posts
  • Wisconsin

Posted 21 October 2011 - 05:52 PM

My front end measures from concrete to fender arch about 26"


Thanks for checking that!

Mine is just a smidge under 25" in front, and about 26 1/4" in the rear. The rear springs look to be in good shape.

So it looks like my car is sitting about an inch lower up front then.

#56 1982gl4

1982gl4

    1000+ Super USER!

  • Members
  • 1,367 posts
  • Worcester, VT

Posted 22 October 2011 - 06:22 PM

As promised

I added my rear LGT wing.I almost blew my rear window into a thousand tiny pieces, as I was welding the holes where the original dust deflector used to mount a piece of slag rolled down the rear window, stopped mid way, and started to burn through it. It didn't break but left a decent enough mark... I hope it doesn't brake this winter as it does not look fun to change. Anyway some pics. Not really a lot to it

Paints to come. Not sure if I want to keep it red as it looks nice with the flaps, or black for the tailgate, or white for the car :brow:
Posted Image

Posted Image

These are the only modifications done, I cut the edges to fit over the trim, ground down the front edge so I could open my hatch, and used the four screws that held on the original dust deflector. It fits really well. I love the looks of it
Posted Image

#57 Red92

Red92

    Subaru Fanatic!

  • Bronze Subscribers
  • 427 posts
  • Wisconsin

Posted 22 October 2011 - 08:50 PM

Looks great!!

Mine doesn't have the dust deflector, so I would either have to use the double-sided tape, or drill some holes I suppose...

Do you know what year the car was that your wing came off of?


Not sure what to tell you on the color. I would lean toward gloss black I think... match the trim and keep it subtle. :cool:

#58 1982gl4

1982gl4

    1000+ Super USER!

  • Members
  • 1,367 posts
  • Worcester, VT

Posted 22 October 2011 - 09:18 PM

Mine had the dust deflector and I had to fill those holes. I drilled new ones in the hatch for the new wing using the hardware from the deflector I had to cut the screws down as they were too long.

The spoiler is off from a 1997 legacy GT wagon I've seen them on outbacks as well. Apparently they are pretty rare, I felt a little bad cutting it up, but it was well worth it, I don't plan on swapping my first gen legacy for a second anytime soon.

#59 Red92

Red92

    Subaru Fanatic!

  • Bronze Subscribers
  • 427 posts
  • Wisconsin

Posted 22 October 2011 - 10:33 PM

Ok, thanks.

So I would be looking for a spoiler from the Legacy GT or Outback, from... around the 95-99 year range? Is that correct?

#60 1982gl4

1982gl4

    1000+ Super USER!

  • Members
  • 1,367 posts
  • Worcester, VT

Posted 23 October 2011 - 02:03 PM

Yep those are the years. I've seen more on the GT's than any other wagon of that vintage, but I've also seen them on the base models, I think they were an option on all the wagons so just keep an eye out for them.

#61 Red92

Red92

    Subaru Fanatic!

  • Bronze Subscribers
  • 427 posts
  • Wisconsin

Posted 05 November 2011 - 04:14 PM

So I had a nice chat with ShawnW on the phone yesterday. He's going to build up a pair of front strut assemblies for me, with a pair of used springs left over from an Outback suspension swap, but new strut cores and new top mounts. Should be an easy swap for me to put them on, and with the new parts, they should be good for a long time. :banana: Thanks Shawn!


In the mean time, I'm working on getting things ready to do that. Going to pull the front wheels, hopefully tomorrow, to mark the camber bolts, slot the brake line brackets, and give the bolts a quick shot of penetrating oil. If everything goes to plan, I'm hoping to get them swapped next weekend. :banana:

#62 Red92

Red92

    Subaru Fanatic!

  • Bronze Subscribers
  • 427 posts
  • Wisconsin

Posted 05 November 2011 - 05:38 PM

I just did the VIN check from a tip by Idasho:
http://www.ultimates...ad.php?t=127525


I found out that I'm the fifth owner of my GT, and there are no reports of accidents or anything else. A completely clean history. :)


0 Problem(s) Reported:
15 Title/Problem areas checked:


No abandoned title record
No damaged title or major damage incident record
No fire damaged title record
No grey market title record
No hail damage title record
No insurance loss title or probable total loss record
No junk or scrapped title record
No manufacturer buyback/lemon title record
No odometer problem title record
No rebuilt/rebuildable title record
No salvage title or salvage auction record
No water damaged title record
No NHTSA crash test record
No frame/unibody damage record
No recycling facility record


1 Event(s) Reported:
9 Vehicle events checked:


No accident record reported through accident data sources
No corrected title record
No duplicate title record
Emission/safety inspection record(s) -(Two emissions checks, both passed)
No loan/lien record
No fire damage incident record
No repossessed record
No theft record
No storm area registration/title record


Here's the ownership record:
up through 37k miles and 06/1997, it was a lease vehicle in CT
37k through 99k miles and 11/2001, it was privately owned in CT
99k through 113k miles and 09/2002, it was owned in MA
past 113k (no more mileages given) and through 09/2005, it was owned in PA
from 09/2005 through 10/2011, it has been in WI

.. and then I bought it. :D

#63 Red92

Red92

    Subaru Fanatic!

  • Bronze Subscribers
  • 427 posts
  • Wisconsin

Posted 07 November 2011 - 12:04 PM

Found out something else interesting...

Safercar.gov Recalls Summary

Vehicle Make / Model: Model Year(s):
SUBARU / LEGACY 1995-1999
SUBARU / OUTBACK 1995-1999

NHTSA Campaign ID Number:
01V216000

Summary:
VEHICLE DESCRIPTION: PASSENGER VEHICLES EQUIPPED WITH FRONT COIL SPRINGS ORIGINALLY SOLD IN OR CURRENTLY REGISTERED IN THE STATES OF CONNECTICUT, DELAWARE, ILLINOIS, INDIANA, IOWA, KENTUCKY, MAINE, MARYLAND, MASSACHUSETTS, MICHIGAN, MINNESOTA, MISSOURI, NEW YORK, NEW JERSEY, NEW HAMPSHIRE, OHIO, PENNSYLVANIA, RHODE ISLAND, VERMONT, VIRGINIA, WEST VIRGINIA, AND WISCONSIN, AND IN THE DISTRICT OF COLUMBIA. THE FRONT COIL SPRINGS WERE PRODUCED WITH POOR PAINT QUALITY WHICH, AFTER CONTINUED EXPOSURE TO CORROSIVE SALT, CAN RESULT IN BREAKAGE OF THE SPRING.

Consequence:
DEPENDING ON THE LOCATION OF THE FRACTURE, A BROKEN SPRING COULD MOVE PAST THE SPRING SEAT AND CONTACT A FRONT TIRE. SOME TIRES HAVE DEFLATED DUE TO CONTACT WITH A BROKEN SPRING.

Remedy:
DEALERS WILL NOTIFIY CUSTOMERS TO BRING THEIR VEHICLE TO AN AUTHORIZE DEALERSHIP TO HAVE A SPRING GUARD INSTALLED ON BOTH FRONT STRUTS TO PREVENT TIRE PUNCTURE AND REPLACE ANY BROKEN SPRINGS FREE OF CHARGE. OWNER NOTIFICATION BEGAN SEPTEMBER 18, 2001. OWNERS WHO TAKE THEIR VEHICLES TO AN AUTHORIZED DEALER ON AN AGREED UPON SERVICE DATE AND DO NOT RECEIVE THE FREE REMEDY WITHIN A REASONABLE TIME SHOULD CONTACT SUBARU AT 1-800-782-2783.

Notes:
ALSO CONTACT THE NATIONAL HIGHWAY TRAFFIC SAFETY ADMINISTRATION'S AUTO SAFETY HOTLINE AT 1-888-DASH-2-DOT (1-888-327-4236).



My car was ONE YEAR OFF from having the strut springs replaced for free. :banghead:

#64 Red92

Red92

    Subaru Fanatic!

  • Bronze Subscribers
  • 427 posts
  • Wisconsin

Posted 09 November 2011 - 04:09 PM

Got the tracking number yesterday from Shawn... The strut assemblies are on their way, leaving Colorado this morning with an ETA of Friday! :banana:

#65 Ever Victorious

Ever Victorious

    Hazard to himself

  • Members
  • 877 posts
  • Everett

Posted 09 November 2011 - 05:39 PM

Here's the ownership record:
up through 37k miles and 06/1997, it was a lease vehicle in CT
37k through 99k miles and 11/2001, it was privately owned in CT
99k through 113k miles and 09/2002, it was owned in MA
past 113k (no more mileages given) and through 09/2005, it was owned in PA
from 09/2005 through 10/2011, it has been in WI

.. and then I bought it. :D


How many times were titles issued? That might be able to tell whether the two "owners" in CT are actually the same person, and/or if the owner moved to another state. Might show records like emissions prior to a title issuance...

For instance, I just did this on my sedan, and owner 1 lived in AK, Owner 2 (clearly a different title #) bought it in AK but owned it for a significant amount of time in WA, before selling it. Then I can see where owner 2 sold it to owner 3, and owner 3 sold it to owner 4, and then owner 4 sold it to me.

By the way, cool trick!

#66 Red92

Red92

    Subaru Fanatic!

  • Bronze Subscribers
  • 427 posts
  • Wisconsin

Posted 09 November 2011 - 06:25 PM

How many times were titles issued? That might be able to tell whether the two "owners" in CT are actually the same person, and/or if the owner moved to another state. Might show records like emissions prior to a title issuance...


Interesting idea.

It was titled 9 times, including the initial CT title and my WI title.

It looks like it was first titled at just 10 miles, back in 08/1994 in "CT", with the next event being the registration renewal (indicated as being a leased vehicle) in 04/1996 in "CT", and then given a new title in "Farmington, CT" in 06/1997. Lots of registrations and emissions checks in CT after that (none listing it as being leased), but no new title until 11/2001 in MA. The MA registration is from 10/17/2001, but the MA title is at 11/02/2001, and no other MA registrations are listed.... so I'm assuming that it just took a few weeks for the title to process.


I'm not sure if that gives us enough to go by though, to tell if the first real "owner" was the person who had leased it?

#67 Ever Victorious

Ever Victorious

    Hazard to himself

  • Members
  • 877 posts
  • Everett

Posted 09 November 2011 - 07:15 PM

On each title issue on my report, it gives a title number. The first 3 have the exact same title number on mine, which means same title, same owner. Then the title number changes for its last issuance in Alaska (sale to 2nd owner). Then there's a boat load of registrations in WA, before another title issuance (3rd owner). There are a couple times where two different title #'s are issused "in a row", but the dates are for the same date, so one is a null or invalid number. A little harder to read than, say, a Carfax, but doable.

#68 Red92

Red92

    Subaru Fanatic!

  • Bronze Subscribers
  • 427 posts
  • Wisconsin

Posted 09 November 2011 - 09:17 PM

On each title issue on my report, it gives a title number. The first 3 have the exact same title number on mine, which means same title, same owner.


Oh! I see what you're saying now.

On my report, every title number is different, except the ones in PA. In PA, there were three title lines for 09/2002, 08/2003, and 07/2004, all with the same title number, and all in Philadelphia, PA. But the two in CT at the beginning are different.

#69 Red92

Red92

    Subaru Fanatic!

  • Bronze Subscribers
  • 427 posts
  • Wisconsin

Posted 15 November 2011 - 06:18 PM

Got the front struts installed this past weekend!! :banana:

We had a few setbacks along the way, but nothing we couldn't handle. The car sits a LOT higher in the front now, looks like an inch and a half or more higher. I'll have to measure it. I liked how it looked before better, but this should be a better ride height for winder. ;)

Pictures to come... I didn't have my camera, so my brother took some pictures with his phone. :D

#70 Red92

Red92

    Subaru Fanatic!

  • Bronze Subscribers
  • 427 posts
  • Wisconsin

Posted 15 November 2011 - 06:49 PM

I took some time this afternoon to check out a few more things on the car.

There is a bit of a gurgling sound from behind the dash at startup, so I checked the coolant level. The overflow tank was empty, and the level in the radiator is WAY down there. :eek: :eek: I'm not even sure there is enough coolant in there to circulate!

I've read that these Subarus take a special coolant, not just plain anti-freeze? I'll have to stop by the dealer tomorrow to pick some up. When I top it up, is the EJ22 one of the engines that needs the "burping" procedure? I'm also a bit concerned about how the level got to be so low, and how long it has been driven without enough coolant. :(


I also connected up the black read memory connector, and got the check engine light to blink the codes. It gave me codes 31, 32, and 35.

31 is the throttle sensor
32 is the oxygen sensor
35 is the purge control solenoid valve

It runs and drives fine, so I'll probably clear the codes and see what comes back before I start throwing parts at it...

#71 bheinen74

bheinen74

    Banned

  • Banned
  • Pip
  • 0 posts
  • central Iowa

Posted 15 November 2011 - 07:11 PM

no, use regular coolant, the green colored stuff. I buy mine at Oreilly in the black jug, and I buy the 100% concentrate, then mix 50/50 with distilled water before i fill it.

Make sure heater select is on hottest, raise the front of the car so it sits higher than the back, and fill coolant. Then start car with cap off let run enough to circulate and top off. Then drive for 4-5 minutes with cap on. Let cool off, then top off in the morning when it is cold.

NEVER fill a hot engine with cold coolant.

#72 Red92

Red92

    Subaru Fanatic!

  • Bronze Subscribers
  • 427 posts
  • Wisconsin

Posted 16 November 2011 - 11:19 AM

Sounds easy enough.

In addition to the radiator, do I need to fill the overflow tank to the line? Or should I just fill the radiator and let it burp out into that tank while it is empty?

Also, how much higher do I need to get the front? (Is jacking it up with the factory jack sufficient?)

Thanks

#73 MilesFox

MilesFox

    Catch this Fox!

  • Members
  • 10,571 posts
  • Madison/Milwaukee, WI

Posted 16 November 2011 - 12:00 PM

I like the gold snowflake wheels. These would have been original to the gt model. as mine are on my 94. I have a spare set of these i may use on my 3door with 'bright metallic gold' color, but they no longer fit on my legacy with outback brakes.

IF yo are doing the coolant, fill the block by the upper radiator hose, and then the radiator. You want to get the thermostat to open, and not have an air bubble. you may have to hold the Idle open now and again when filling, and when you let off, you get a burp.

Dont even worry about the overflow bottle until you are sure the engine is burped and holds a steady temp gauge.

fill the overflow at the cold mark, but do not fill it all the way. I say this because if you see that it is full all of a sudden, this would be a warning about the cooling system.

But these engines use normal head gaskets instead of the MLS stuff, so they are not prone to the same type of failures as the new subarus, and therefore do not require any special or new edition coolants.

#74 Red92

Red92

    Subaru Fanatic!

  • Bronze Subscribers
  • 427 posts
  • Wisconsin

Posted 16 November 2011 - 12:42 PM

IF yo are doing the coolant, fill the block by the upper radiator hose, and then the radiator. You want to get the thermostat to open, and not have an air bubble. you may have to hold the Idle open now and again when filling, and when you let off, you get a burp.


Thanks Miles.

So are you saying that I should disconnect the hose at the radiator, and fill the block through the hose while the engine is running? Will the thermostat allow it to be filled like this when cold, or would it have to be warm for the thermostat to open for the fluid to pass?

#75 987687

987687

    Rally Suby!

  • Members
  • 3,579 posts
  • Northern Maine

Posted 16 November 2011 - 07:16 PM

Fill the engine through the upper hose, connect it. Fill rad, leave cap off then start the engine.

If don't do what I did last time I dropped in an engine... leave a coolant temp sensor out and have coolant pissing everywhere...




0 user(s) are reading this topic

0 members, 0 guests, 0 anonymous users