AKghandi Posted January 31, 2012 Author Share Posted January 31, 2012 (edited) Yeah that's the kind I have it's got 2 LEDs with a + next to one and a - next to the other And it says 3.5-12 v ac/dc on the side. Edited January 31, 2012 by AKghandi Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cougar Posted January 31, 2012 Share Posted January 31, 2012 I wouldn't spend any money for a replacement sensor until you have proved the trouble is actually with the sensor and not the wiring to it. Your money is better spent on a test meter so you can check things. Hopefully you can barrow some cash from someone and purchase a decent meter. It will be a good investment for the future since it can help save you money on needless parts or on repairs you can do yourself. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AKghandi Posted January 31, 2012 Author Share Posted January 31, 2012 (edited) well i bought a new coolant temp sensor yesterday i put it in and the cel was off. the car wasn't running any differently tho. then i changed the alternator back to the one the car had originally and now the cel is on again with the same code. i hate problems like this because once i figure it out im going to kick myself for not figuring it out sooner. its something simple. its one part or something causing this. i just gotta figure it out. But on a better note ill have some cash today and a garage to work in(thank god!) so hopefully ill get it figured out by the end of the day. yeah ive been meaning to buy a voltmeter but i kept getting sidetrack with other projects. like my perfectly running 84 hatchie with a bad clutch cable..both cars broke at the same time. and no one in alaska seems to have the cable. Edited January 31, 2012 by AKghandi Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AKghandi Posted February 1, 2012 Author Share Posted February 1, 2012 bought the voltmeter. all sensors and circuts working propperly. the CEL is off again. had some help today and i think the problem is intake manifold gasket. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
naru Posted February 1, 2012 Share Posted February 1, 2012 I`m starting to wonder about the clogged exhaust theory. At this point,it may be worth dropping it off the heads a little. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AKghandi Posted February 1, 2012 Author Share Posted February 1, 2012 Yeah i thought about that too but it's getting too much air which exPlains the bad idle and the lack of power under boost and since this all started while I was in boost. I'm going to be getting a pretty big tax return so if it isn't fixed by then I'm going to buy New car. something simpler like a ea81 or a legacy. In other news I think my turbo is going down the drain due to the metal shaving paste in the turbo outlet. So that's always fun to deal with. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AKghandi Posted February 2, 2012 Author Share Posted February 2, 2012 you know i think it might be the hg. not it the traditional oil in the water kinda way but in the one cylinder leaking into another.. because when it back fires the turbo light comes on for a moment. . and when i pulled one of the spark plugs on the passenger side it wouldnt even start...which means problems because ive seen these run with just the drivers side timing belt. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ivans imports Posted February 2, 2012 Share Posted February 2, 2012 the clicking you here is the turbo solinod cycling normal check thet the hot wire in the mass is not broken they like to break its absoluty critical that mass air works properly remember it weighs air have had thiss problem before there are some models have extra wires on tp switch somtimes fu and have had the internal screws on ecu come loose and short ecu common for conectors at ecu to get pulled on and not conect well at ecu but to fix it proper put a turbo legacy 2.2 in it fixed those dam ea8ewwwws from 85 -88 subaru couldent even make them run good Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ivans imports Posted February 2, 2012 Share Posted February 2, 2012 check timming belts are timed corectly Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AKghandi Posted February 2, 2012 Author Share Posted February 2, 2012 (edited) The timing is ok and the Maf is getting power with the Maf inplace but disconnected it idles perfectly you can't even feel it. But I get absolutely no boost as soon as it hits boost it bogs down( makes perfect sense) so I'm going to go see if I can get one from the Subaru grave yard. And just for clarity it also runs with the Maf connected but not hooked up to the intake and when I blow into the Maf the car stalls. So far the only code I've got is 23 which is the Maf. But the cOde is only present with the Maf disconnected. And an ej20t would be amazing. Edited February 2, 2012 by AKghandi Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AKghandi Posted February 22, 2012 Author Share Posted February 22, 2012 so i figured it out. the maf was the problem but now theres a boost/exhaust leak and its not getting full power. but atleast i can get up to 45 in a timely manner:D Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cougar Posted February 23, 2012 Share Posted February 23, 2012 Glad you found the trouble and thanks for the update. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.