The Scooby Posted March 30, 2004 Share Posted March 30, 2004 ok so after about 3 hours of calling i got the rings and seals i needed to redo the oil pump. but, i dont have the money to get a haynes, i had one and someone stole it from school. so can someone please tell me everything i need to do, step by step, to do this, start to finish. Thanks, Shean Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GLCraig Posted March 30, 2004 Share Posted March 30, 2004 Here's the short version of the directions, you may want to reconsider doing this for the first time without a manual, even the stupid underware manual. 1. remove all accesory belts. 2. detach powering stearing pump from bracket and sit it out of the way. 3. detach AC compressor from bracket and sit it out of the way. 4. remove radiator fans. A must with the mechanical and very helpful with the electric. 5. find a way to prevent the flywheel from turning 6. Remove bolt from crank pully 7. Remove crank pully from crank. 8. Take off the timing belt covers. 9. take of the timing belts 10. remove the pump from the block 11. change the seals and o-rings 12. reassemble in reverse order. This is may not cover everything. Like i said it's the short list Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ShawnW Posted March 30, 2004 Share Posted March 30, 2004 I want to go to that school....one where somebody steals a Subaru Repair Manual. Just joking around, sorry. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Scooby Posted March 30, 2004 Author Share Posted March 30, 2004 ya tell me about it, eariler this year i left my 1978 C10 chevy truck there to come back on monday and find my vent window gone, my tach gone, my CD player gone, and my K&N settup. totally over $300, plus time and moeny for a new window. the school is so ghetto, i dont trust anyone that isnt in my class. PS do i have to take off my oil pan, i hope i dont, i dont wanna mess with that, can i just drain my oil because im thinking of also replacing the cam seals and front main seal to cure my other oil leaks. Thanks, Shean Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
heartless Posted March 30, 2004 Share Posted March 30, 2004 No, you do Not have to remove the oil pan to reseal the oil pump. all the rest of the stuff, yes, but not the pan. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mickytrus Posted March 30, 2004 Share Posted March 30, 2004 Speaking of pump and pump seal... (mickymouse seal) Is anyone out there familiar with a "non hardening sealer" called "hylomar"........... Could this be used on the mickymouse seal....... and also on the camshaft o-rings ??????? I am looking for something to put on these o-rings......... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Scooby Posted March 30, 2004 Author Share Posted March 30, 2004 Speaking of pump and pump seal... (mickymouse seal) Is anyone out there familiar with a "non hardening sealer" called "hylomar"........... Could this be used on the mickymouse seal....... and also on the camshaft o-rings ??????? I am looking for something to put on these o-rings......... i would go with hi-temp silicone, it never hardnes, and much easier to take off when they are replaced the next time compared to that other stuff. thanks for the heads up on the oil pan, it took me like 20 minutes to take off the alt, and mechanical fan/shrowd. now im just waiting for my girlfriend to bring me my haynes manual so i can continue. also talked with my dad and he is going to pay for anything i want done to the car for my B-day present, so im gettin new timing belts, new cam, crank, etc gaskets to seal the engine back up, plus new tires. i cant wait, he said we can go get everything this week, so i can have it done and going by saturday so i can drive it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Caboobaroo Posted March 30, 2004 Share Posted March 30, 2004 man I wish my dad was as cool as yours. He just sits on his butt and doesn't do anything except go to work. I have an $18,000 IROC-Z sitting in my backyard that needs a motor/tranny/rear-end rebuild but he's not willing to help pay for any of it. *sigh* As for your oil pump, its pretty easy. I helped my buddy do one in his old 86 XT. Took us a few hours to do it but it ran so much better afterwards. No more valve ticking nothing:D Hope it goes good for you Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GLCraig Posted March 30, 2004 Share Posted March 30, 2004 You should add a water pump to the shopping list since you need to take the timing belts off to change it too. And for a sealer, I like to use Loctite 518 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Scooby Posted March 30, 2004 Author Share Posted March 30, 2004 well i would be finishing everything up right now, but for the last hour ive been ****in with the dam bolts that hold on the outer timing cover, the jackass that put it on before i got the car spriped out every single one, so now i am trying to get them out and its not working, so looks like tomarrow ill get the dremel with soem cut off wheels, and then just use nuts and bolts from now on. also most of the crap is half assed when they put it back together. found most of my oil leaks too, so thats one less thing to hunt for. but everything is going surprisingly easy, i never thought it would be this easy. been working for about 2 ours and have almost everything off the engine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mickytrus Posted March 30, 2004 Share Posted March 30, 2004 Yes, one reason l like having 'soobs' is that they appear to be easy to work on........ those parts which may rust or seize due electrolysis(steel bolts in aluminum) I use anti-seize on them............. I use anti-seize on the shroud bolts and the rad-fan to rad bolts......... thermostat etc....... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MorganM Posted March 30, 2004 Share Posted March 30, 2004 Here's the short version of the directions, you may want to reconsider doing this for the first time without a manual, even the stupid underware manual. 1. remove all accesory belts. 2. detach powering stearing pump from bracket and sit it out of the way. 3. detach AC compressor from bracket and sit it out of the way. 4. remove radiator fans. A must with the mechanical and very helpful with the electric. 5. find a way to prevent the flywheel from turning 6. Remove bolt from crank pully 7. Remove crank pully from crank. 8. Take off the timing belt covers. 9. take of the timing belts 10. remove the pump from the block 11. change the seals and o-rings 12. reassemble in reverse order. This is may not cover everything. Like i said it's the short list Couple little tips: Break free the main oil pump gear bolt BEFORE you remove the timing belt. Note there is a little notch on the oil pump gear making it easy to remove the 3 inside bolts holding the pump on. If you cant get the main crank pullye bolt loose try the starter trick. Put your engine at TDC @ cylinder 1 on a compression stroke. That way putting the timing blets back on is a no brainer Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Scooby Posted March 30, 2004 Author Share Posted March 30, 2004 ya thanks for the help, the only thing i had a problem with is to get the pully off the oil pump, but i got a strap wrench and stuff so i will be able tog et it off, then just pull all the old seals and put in the new ones. Shean Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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