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HELP PLEASE!! cant fit outback strut into legacy


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9 replies to this topic

#1 legacywaggin

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Posted 01 November 2012 - 04:37 PM

im trying to put some damn outback struts into my legacy. i started in the rear, but when i went to put the new assembly back in it was too long to fit above the trailing arm. i know the outback strut is taller (duhh, thats why im putting them in) but right now it seems too tall for me to fit back onto the hub. is there anything im missing here? im pretty damn sure the spring is positioned correctly but i dont see any way of me fitting this ************in thing on here.

#2 Fairtax4me

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Posted 01 November 2012 - 05:13 PM

You usually want the subframe spacers to bring the lower arms down that extra inch, but it's not needed.

If the sway bar is still attached to the lateral links, unbolt it.

Then use a big prybar (or your foot) to push the hub/knuckle assembly down until you can get the lower strut mount bolt in. Then use a jack under the knuckle (be sure to put it under the knuckle BEHIND the brake disc, not under the brake disc) to make it swing back up and pivot so you can put the top bolt in.

#3 cal_look_zero

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Posted 01 November 2012 - 05:29 PM

You usually want the subframe spacers to bring the lower arms down that extra inch, but it's not needed.

If the sway bar is still attached to the lateral links, unbolt it.

Then use a big prybar (or your foot) to push the hub/knuckle assembly down until you can get the lower strut mount bolt in. Then use a jack under the knuckle (be sure to put it under the knuckle BEHIND the brake disc, not under the brake disc) to make it swing back up and pivot so you can put the top bolt in.


^This. The extra length of the strut causes everything to not want to line up. Unbolting the sway bar is pretty much necessary, and it will be fun to get lined back up as well...

#4 johnceggleston

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Posted 01 November 2012 - 05:37 PM

If the sway bar is still attached to the lateral links, unbolt it.


this.

i put them on my 97 GT so they will fit.

keep at it.

#5 legacywaggin

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Posted 01 November 2012 - 05:56 PM

ok thanks for the support guys. i may be calling it a night but i will get back at it tomorrow and hopefully it goes well.

as for the sway bar, does it have to go back on when i get the new struts in? i think ive heard of people ditching their sway bars is that a bad idea?

#6 Fairtax4me

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Posted 01 November 2012 - 06:07 PM

Nope. I'm running no rear sway bar on my car, along with several other Outback strut lifted vehicle owners on the forum. It's not necessary, and you probably won't be able to tell the difference.

#7 porcupine73

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Posted 01 November 2012 - 06:34 PM

What year are we talking about here? Yes you may need to get a pry bar involved to pry the bearing housing down far enough to make up with a fully extended Outback strut. I've done this on late 90's soobs and usually you will need a little motivation on the rears to get them to fit up. UsualLy I put me knee on the bearing housing, then get in the bottom bolt. Then I use a jack with a block of wood and jack under the lug nuts to rotate the bearing housing up into position, and then put in the upper bolt.

I've bolted the rear sway bars back up on these; don't know if it's needed but no real issues in having it bolted. Actually thinking about it I never unbolted them to begin with.

#8 grossgary

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Posted 01 November 2012 - 07:21 PM

Nope. I'm running no rear sway bar on my car, along with several other Outback strut lifted vehicle owners on the forum. It's not necessary, and you probably won't be able to tell the difference.

good news, so that probably means if i'm having suspension related issues it's not sway bar related?

#9 Fairtax4me

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Posted 01 November 2012 - 09:03 PM

good news, so that probably means if i'm having suspension related issues it's not sway bar related?


That can depend on the issue.

What I mean by "not necessary" is that it isn't holding anything onto the frame of the car. The swaybar doesn't hold the wheels on, or keep the transverse arms in place, or keep the wheels going straight. It's just there for the ride. (literally)

It counteracts body roll/sway by preventing excessive opposing motion of the control arms in relation to each other. It does this by transferring torsional force across the bar to the opposing control arm. If both arms move up (or down) in unison, the sway bar has no effect on this movement. Only when the arms move in opposite directions does the sway bar work to counter that movement.
There are things it can affect, a bent sway bar can cause tire wear problems or stability issues. A broken link or worn bushings can cause clunking or knocking sounds. Sway bar related noises are usually easy to diagnose. Just disconnect the ends and zip tie them up out of the way.

#10 pamike

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Posted 03 November 2012 - 12:52 PM

don't worry it will be worth it when your done :clap:




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