TRUSTY MUSTY Posted April 2, 2013 Share Posted April 2, 2013 I recently purchases a beautifully clean '87 GL-10 Turbo equipped with a working Pneumatic Height Control System. Works great, feels great, and looks great... BUT (those of you who are familiar with the system were waiting for that but...) I noticed that when I'm riding on the higher setting (when the system is engaged and the car is fully raised) and I turn RIGHT, there is a knocking wobbling sound coming from the front right wheel. Once I get going straight again, the sound tappers off and goes away until I turn right again. Any ideas? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
john in KY Posted April 2, 2013 Share Posted April 2, 2013 Bad top mount or bad CV axle? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
skishop69 Posted April 3, 2013 Share Posted April 3, 2013 +1 on the CV. Wouldn't think it would be the upper strut mount or a wheel bearing as they would pretty much create issues all the time as their geometry does not change as the car raises up. A few things that do that you might check: Lower control arm bushing and ball joint as well as play on the inner and outter tie rods. And from someone who has owned one for around 10 years now.... DON"T be driving it around in the full raised position just because. That is a temporary setting for deep snow or , believe it or not, off road ground clearance. That's why there is a safety feature that disables it at and above 55mph. It does put extra strain on the drive train components. Not much, but no sense wearing things out faster. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TRUSTY MUSTY Posted April 4, 2013 Author Share Posted April 4, 2013 I took a closer look at the CV axle today and sure enough the boot is torn a bit. Any recommendations on where to get a new one? it's easy to find them online but i'm not sure what brands i should avoid. what are your go to places for good subaru parts? even though the other side isn't bothering me, would it be beneficial to replace both front CV's at the same time? my thought is that because the other one is 25 years old, it might be getting old and slow anyways. any truth to that? any benefit to evening out like that? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
86 Wonder Wedge Posted April 4, 2013 Share Posted April 4, 2013 (edited) If the axles are the OEM, KEEP THEM (unless they are terribly worm, broken or otherwise unusable). Take it out, sterilize both axle sockets and grab new boots and fill with new grease. I grabbed Beck/Arnley boot kits as they are OE replacement styles (not the Dorman Uni-Fit or similar designs) as they are inner/outer specific, come with new moly grease for the balls/sockets and fit, work, and look great. However, IF you need a new axle, EMPI axles are the only ones that are close enough to the OEM and not cause problems/fail. Or you can grab OEM for 440 a piece. A torn boot SHOULDN'T cause your wobble problem.. I'd pop off the center cap and/or wheel and inspect for looseness in the hub. IF brake work has been done recently, sometimes the conical washer is installed wrong, the cone seat is warn or the axle nut needs to be retorqued. EDIT: you could also have a warn radius rod bushing (by the firewall/footwell) which will show under turning as the LCA will try to rotate with the wheel! Edited April 4, 2013 by 86 Wonder Wedge Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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