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Phase 1 Ej22 in to 2000 Forester (Ej20) Help


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Hey guys i'm relatively new to subaru's so i don't know much about them at the moment so i was wondering if you guys could enlighten me on a few details.

 

And yes i have searched through the forums and google but i can't seem to find much info on anyone swapping from a ej20 to a phase 1 ej22. Everywhere i could find was about people swapping out a ej25 to 22.

 

I was wondering what i would need to replace/ modify to get the ej22 into the 2000 forester(manual)  

 

I am using the ej22 as it was the engine in my last car which i still have but with a blown head gasket and 350 thousand km's (doesn't blow smoke just compression gasses going into the cooling system atm) and I want to pull the engine out of the car and replace the head gasket with a thinner one, pulley's with light weight ones, maybe a lightweight flywheel. Maybe even cams, Pistons and conrods depending if i can get the money when i start putting the engine back together 

 

By the way the ej22 is out of my 1991 FWD Liberty LX (auto) or Legacy everywhere else 

 

 

P.S I apologise for the somewhat disjointed post as it's quite late for me in sydney 

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Since I am not familiar with the FI setup on your AUSDM I can't say for sure.....

 

But ussualy the big issues going from Phase II back to Phase I is the IAC.

 

Phase II use stepper motor multiple stage.......Phase I are simple push/pull coils......

 

When I do Phase I into Phase II cars this is the recipe

 

Phase I engine/heads.

 

Phase I 2.2 intake.......But modified to work in the Phase II car........with the wiring harness from the Phase II merged onto it (may require splicing Injector tails), and Phase II throttle body......possibly with a plate fashioned to sit between it and manifold to block off the open IAC port on Phase II TB.

 

And likely need to block off the Phase I IAC......

 

with this setup the car will run great....but may set idle control codes.....and will need warmed up for 30secs-1min in the mornings.

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Are we positive the EJ20 is Phase II?  I don't know what the engine breakdown is for overseas markets?  We didn't get the Ej20 here so that's why you're not finding much EJ20 swap information, they never existed from the dealer here.

 

Easiest way to do the swap would be to simply bolt the Ej20 heads onto the EJ22 block.

Then you retain the original intake, wiring harness, electronics, exhaust manifolds.

 

You were going to do a head job anyway so it's no additional work really.

 

If you wanted a more specific answer it would help to get pictures of the engine - timing covers, valve covers, throttle body, exhaust manifolds of both.

 

In the US rebuilding the rods, bearings, lower end is not cost effective. labor intensive and costly to do right with almost no gains when you can simply go buy another EJ22 for cheap that's going to easily last 100,00+ miles.

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In the US, injectors don't matter at all with Subaru's, sounds like he's not that familiar with them.  I would highly doubt that matters if they're both non-turbo engines.

 

In the US market - an EJ25 vehice ECU can run an EJ18 engine just a fine - a much larger jump than you're talking about. ECU or injectors, etc.  doesn't matter, the ECU will accomodate, there's not that much difference.

 

the easiest way to do the swap is this:

 

1.  bolt the VEHICLE intake manifold onto the DONOR engine.  then nothing change.  the wiring, injectors, etc are all the same, you're just sliding a different long block underneath.  and EJ18, Ej22, EJ25 (and no doubt EJ20) stuff has the same intake manifold bolt patterns to varying degrees based on Phase I or Phase II design.  That's why i asked for pictures, so we could tell what it is.

 

if that's not possible, which it very well may not be, then you have to look into other options depending on what phases/engine we're talking.

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Use your 2.2 short block with the 2.5 cly heads this works well have done many some mods to 2.2 headgasket needed and timing belt tentioner needed but makes a good little engine in long run. Is some of these I built with well over 150000 kms on them. Then your intake and wire harness lines up and fits you may even not have check engine light on

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