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#51 lvsarge

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Posted 26 January 2015 - 02:28 PM

Ha ha yeah this should be fun... Socket should be here tomorrow (I do not own any 3/4 drive sockets)

 

I did try to heat the nut up a few times and hit it with my impact. No luck.

 

 

Oh and here's that bearing video I made that never got posted previously

 

 

And here's me making more work for myself... Driver's side, rear wheel well. I need to get this stupid socket before I end up cutting up the whole truck out of boredom.

 



#52 superpoo93

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Posted 29 January 2015 - 07:59 PM

Sarge, the offer still stands to use the 1/2 impact wrench (345-ft lbs). and I have a regular 1/2 36mm socket. and a 32mm socket for those aftermarket nuts. I had an issue just like yours and the impact from my work, did the job. I have no problem bringing over, just let me know. I'm free Friday after 5;00pm. and Sun early before the SuperBowl.

#53 turbosubarubrat

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Posted 30 January 2015 - 01:12 AM

Every thing i have had has come off with a impact. But sometimes i have to use a 3/4 to get them off. I had to break loose the drain plug on a 5 speed d/r a couple days ago with a 25 inch breaker bar and a 4 foot cheater bar since it just wouldn't budge. Have you tried putting a cheater bar on it and standing/jumping on it?



#54 lvsarge

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Posted 30 January 2015 - 11:04 AM

My 25" bar snapped. Hence why I got the 40".

 

Superpoo, Thanks again. I'd consider Friday (today) but my wife is actually having a bunco party and there's going to be an overwhelming amount of estrogen in the house, so I am vacating the premises tonight.

 

Sundays are sketchy for me.. Early is usually not a good time for me, either. Maybe next week if I haven't cracked it by then?



#55 superpoo93

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Posted 30 January 2015 - 12:05 PM

Sounds good, just let me know. We can work out a good day next week, if the new breaker bar doesn't work.


Noel

#56 lvsarge

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Posted 05 February 2015 - 01:25 PM

Big huge monster thanks and shout out to superpoo93 (aka Noel) who swung by with his dewalt electro-impact that made short work of that stubborn axle nut. Now, I can get back to work. Thanks again, sir!



#57 superpoo93

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Posted 09 February 2015 - 10:14 PM

No problem Sarge, anytime!

#58 Brett!

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Posted 12 February 2015 - 11:42 AM

Man I wish their were people who cared about Old Subarus where I live.  



#59 lvsarge

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Posted 12 February 2015 - 02:24 PM

So, my CV joint was looking really nasty due to a torn boot, and there was debris in the joint, so I tossed the axle and am waiting for my new one to get here. I also picked up a new caliper due to a torn dust boot and less than desirable abrasion marks on the cylinder walls. Couple more days and I should have it on the ground again. Then I make the decision to finish the interior or move on to the rear wheels.



#60 lvsarge

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Posted 02 March 2015 - 05:43 PM

Haven't updated this thread in weeks... again...

 

Well, that's because I'm waiting. Perpetually waiting. If waiting to work on your car were an olympic sport.... well, you guys know the rest.

 

Here's what I'm waiting on currently:

 

Passenger side front axle

Flex fiber Plastic welding rod

Passenger side caliper

 

The axle got "lost" and I had another one sent to me. So it's been about 3.5 weeks just for that. I rebuilt the knuckle with new bearings. Once I get the axle and caliper I can finish up and put it all on the ground again.

 

The welding rod is to finish repairing my dashboard. I will be able to put everything back together with the exception of carpet and seats... trying to find originals or something that I like better than what I have (84 GL's). Anyway, some pictures with captions for fun.

 

A snap shot as I was repainting my badge.

 

Mucky and gross. As I disassembled the passenger side front end I noticed that I had a fancy break line leak somewhere along the way. Previous owner maybe, I hadn't noticed anything on that side but there's a lot of bubbled paint and grime around the brake line areas.

 

Testing the seals. It was hard to tell if they were cracked or not under all that grime. I yanked em anyway since I had new ones.

 

More yuck

 

And here's why I'm getting a new axle. The inside was very contaminated. I chucked it before I even took a picture.

 

As it sits currently.

 

So I'm also repairing my dash as I previously said. It was really cracked. I took a die grinder with a grinding tip on it and beveled out all of the cracks so I can fill and resurface when I get that rod I'm waiting on. I'll let you all know how THAT goes..

 

 

Oh yeah, hey. That steering wheel that I was refinishing? My first attempt, I'd give it an 8/10. Looks great from about 2 feet out, but if you were to closely inspect you'd see some imperfections. Good enough for now. I'll get picky later when I can drive.

 

 

And that's where I'm at. More to come (hopefully sooner than later....)



#61 lvsarge

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Posted 10 March 2015 - 10:51 AM

Same as the driver's side... New ball joint, tie rod end, rotor, pads, wheel bearings. But also with a new axle and caliper on this side.

 

 

I've got my fiberglass-plastic rods and I'm working on the dash now. I've also welded in the holes for the mirrors on my door. I've ordered new mirrors and we'll see how it all turns out. More to come as I have the time.



#62 Brett!

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Posted 10 March 2015 - 12:26 PM

Would it be better to lay new fiberglass over the top of the dash?



#63 lvsarge

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Posted 10 March 2015 - 03:41 PM

I'm not wanting to glass the whole dash. Just filling in the cracks. I would like to retain the padding feel to the dash. I'm following a procedure documented by someone else and will report back on how it goes. Basically it's:

 

Fill in the cracks

Sand down high spots

Use padded dash filler

Re-texture

Prime

Paint

Seal

 

I've got about 3 hours into just filling cracks right now. Since some of my cracks go over the factory speaker holes I will need to re-drill parts of it as well, and I am going to touch up and re-finish some of the rotted plastic trim vents on the dash as well.






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