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Guest Message by DevFuse

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How to remove/install front main oil seal

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5 replies to this topic

#1 goatman


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Posted 16 May 2004 - 10:12 PM

I've been meaning to change my front main out as it looks pretty straight forward. Its not leaking bad but its leaving an oil stain under the hood now and I would like to take care of it before it gets worse. This is step 4 in ridding the subie of oil leaks.

Does anyone know the procedure and what tools I will need, ea-81. I have already taken off the main pulley once to get to the oil pump when I replaced that a year ago so I know how big of a pain that can be (I did the bump the starter trick someone suggested on here).
I guess my main concern/ question is that once I get the main pulley off what do I use to get the old seal out? The radiator is right there so I really can't see in to where the seal is. What do you guys do? After that is there a special tool to install the new seal and do you put anything on the new seal for installation?

#2 GeneralDisorder


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Posted 16 May 2004 - 10:28 PM

First, to do a proper job, and so you have room to work, remove the radiator. It only takes a few minutes. It's just the two bolts at the top, the ground wire on the top, and the upper and lower radiator hose (and the ATF lines if you have an automatic. Really - it's better this way.

Once you remove the pulley, you should be able to see the seal. You can just pick it out with a screwdriver or an awl. Clean up the area, and use a little clear silicone on the outer edge of the new seal, and grease on the inner edge that rides on the crank. Done. Also - for future reference, there is no need to remove the pulley to get the oil pump out. You can fit a socket right under the pulley and get to that 4th bolt....


#3 Alex C

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Posted 16 May 2004 - 11:42 PM

So you can pull off the main pulley and put it back on without any special equipment? If so that means I can replace my front seal.


#4 GeneralDisorder


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Posted 17 May 2004 - 12:04 AM

Absolutely! You just need a big breaker bar, and a socket the right size.... 21mm I think, or a 13/16" will usually work in a pinch. Stick it on the pulley with the breaker bar propped against the body, and hit the starter (coil disconnected). Sometimes takes a couple bumps, but it almost always works. Oh - and stay away from the engine compartment when doing this. Stories of hucking breaker bars into the next county are not unheard of :lol:

You can also use something to hold the flywheel through the timing hole if you have a manual. Might work on an auto too....

Retightening can be done many ways. My favorite if I have the time is to remove a spark plug and fill one cylinder with nylon rope. Then you can reef down at will on the pulley bolt and not worry about breaking anything. you can use this technique for removal too if you wish, but removal is usually much more difficult than installation.


#5 Alex C

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Posted 17 May 2004 - 12:13 AM

cool, I already have a starter switch wired in so I can hit the starter and not start the engine.

Guess Ill have to get some helpers and do this, I know the seals is only 7 something.

#6 redskin


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Posted 01 December 2004 - 11:59 PM

Please read Front/Rear main seals by Mendodave on Page 1 for additional information.

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