lombardcowboy Posted February 3, 2015 Share Posted February 3, 2015 hello I have a stock 1993 subaru legacy with a 2.2L no turbo engine... I want to replace the fuel pump but don't know which one to buy.... not looking to go to the dealer and pay 100+ dollars... what is the stock LPH for my engine... I can't find it... and everyone is saying to go with a walbro?!?!?!?! is there a good long lasting pump under a hundred bucks???? and what LPH should I do if I am not going to be modifing anything..... please help! I also have 204,000 miles on her and she is still in great condition and parts come off without a headache! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lmdew Posted February 3, 2015 Share Posted February 3, 2015 Go to the junk yard and pull a good used Subaru Pump. www.car-part.com is also a good source. After market pumps are a crap shoot. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
naru Posted February 3, 2015 Share Posted February 3, 2015 Rockauto has many brands,some as low as $19. I would not be afraid to use that one. Or,if you are the nervous type,then get the DENSO for $90 or so. Only one I would not use is the CARTER. Used pumps are like used toilet paper,IMO. Pretty crappy. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lombardcowboy Posted February 4, 2015 Author Share Posted February 4, 2015 thank you both very much! yes I am the nervous type and this is also my first subaru. I know going with OEM parts from the dealer is usually best but I can't afford that right now.... The car has been one of the best I have ever worked on.... you go to take off a part and it ACTUALLY comes off with only little fight... which for being a 93 is great! I am going to be making a long trp up to chicago then off to colorado so I don't want the crappiest parts..... but need something just below the price I would be paying at the dealer. does anyone know what the car requires as far as LPH????? cause I have seen some walbro pumps say they are 255... but then they say "high performance" and I don't know if thats ok to put in a stock car..... I know the car has a fuel pressure regulator but I still don't know if that will hurt it in any way. Thanks again for the advice! I love hearing anything about these cars or the EJ22 engine. does anyone else have the problem of low idle along with sluggish performance??? I have done the timing belt and water pump and NGK plugs and wires.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rooster2 Posted February 5, 2015 Share Posted February 5, 2015 Don't know what you mean, when speaking of LPH?? What is that?? As far as which fuel pump, I think there is only one model for normally aspirated motor 2.2 motor, and another for the turbo model. It should not be difficult to specify a fuel pump for your normally aspirated (non turbo) motor. I can't recommend a specific brand, but if me, would not buy a fuel pump manufactured in China. Read the box carefully to see where manufactured. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lombardcowboy Posted February 5, 2015 Author Share Posted February 5, 2015 By LPH I mean the liters per hour.... some pumps say 255 and some say a little over 300.... I see a lot of people using airtex and walbro.... I am just trying to find a good brand fuel pump for under 100 dollars.... is that possible? without having to get a used one? Again thank you very much! and would a high performance fuel ump hurt the system or is the unused gas just returned to the tank??? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
naru Posted February 5, 2015 Share Posted February 5, 2015 Non turbo spec is "greater than 80 litres/hour at 36 psi" Unused gas is indeed returned to the tank. A pump that is VERY much too large may be able to overwhelm the pressure regulators ability to return fuel to the tank quick enough. I think almost all brands of fuel pumps are made in China. Pretty sure the Carters are. Also pretty sure the DENSOs are Japanese.They supply OEM pumps for several manufacturers. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fairtax4me Posted February 5, 2015 Share Posted February 5, 2015 People run the walbro 255s and 300s in turbo cars where they need tons of extra fuel. You can run pretty much any standard fuel pump and it will supply more than enough fuel for a non-turbo engine. Why do you need a new fuel pump? Did the old one quit? Have you checked fuses and made sure the pump is gettig power? Have you checked the wiring connector on top of the pump housing for corrosion/burning? 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lombardcowboy Posted February 5, 2015 Author Share Posted February 5, 2015 Well the fuel pump is still working... but when I replaced the fuel filter I started the car then pulled the fuel pump fuse and it died right away.... where as you see the same cars that other people have lasting for a min or two before shutting down.... so I am just a nervous person that figures before taking a long long trip across the country I would rather just replace it in case it is getting weak ...... I know I know... but like I said the car has 207,000 miles on it and I am just being extra careful.... plus I like working on the car.... and the fuel filter was clogged up pretty bad for quite some time so I figure maybe it hurt the pump over time.... any suggestions on other things I should replace at this point in the engine life? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
naru Posted February 5, 2015 Share Posted February 5, 2015 It is completely normal for any fuel injected car to quit as soon as the pump fuse is pulled. NONE will run "a minute or two". Carbed cars are another story. I would buy the $19 pump and carry it as a spare. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lombardcowboy Posted February 5, 2015 Author Share Posted February 5, 2015 thank you very much naru!!!!! that is a good idea! I am also thinking about taking some new front brake hoses and outer tie rod ends just in case....... again thank you to everyone for helping! I love ths site, you guys have a lot of helpful pointers and have helped me more than you know many times over! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lombardcowboy Posted February 6, 2015 Author Share Posted February 6, 2015 ok so a new question.... what difference if any is there between a O2 sensor for a sedan and one for a wagon????? I have the wagon and the self diagnostic tool on the car is throwing a code #32...which when I look up the code in my haines repair manual...it says that code is the O2 sensor open circut....but is there a difference between a sedan O2 sensor and one on the wagon???? cause auto parts stores only carry a universal for the wagon.... I want the direct plug in type... thank you everyone for answering my weird questions.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Olnick Posted February 6, 2015 Share Posted February 6, 2015 Should be no difference in O2s between wagon & sedan (but can someone else please confirm that . . . just to be sure!) Suggestion--look on Amazon or even E-bay--generally really good prices. And if you have any questions on compatibility, post a link here and we'll help guide you. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lombardcowboy Posted February 7, 2015 Author Share Posted February 7, 2015 I was thinking the bosch or the denso would be the best one's..... I put one from china on there like just about 2 years ago and now it is throwing the same code.... is it just the cheap ones fail easier?!?!?! or could there be something making them fail..... I have only replaced the fuel filter since doing the O2 sensor. and we went to NC for the winter then back to florida for the whole summer..... would the change in temp and humidity cause it to fail??? thanks in advance! its sad that people in auto parts store's don't really know anything about the parts they are selling..... is it only me who notice's this???? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
naru Posted February 7, 2015 Share Posted February 7, 2015 O2 sensors can fail from fouling.Either the part inside the pipe or the external part. The external part needs to see atmospheric air. I had a mercedes that would foul any O2 sensor in a month or so. Problem was a leaky cam sensor that allowed oil to travel along the wiring harness a truly amazing distance until it reached the O2 sensor. Mud could do it too I would not use any silcone spray near one either. I have not noticed any O2 sensor problems related to the country of origin. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lombardcowboy Posted February 7, 2015 Author Share Posted February 7, 2015 that is a great point! I never even thought of oil fouling it from the outside...or even mud.... and since subaru used the plastic oil seperator plate's that almost always leak..... right where the engine meets the trans.... hmmmmmm I will have to look at the O2 sensor up close and see if it has any oil or such on it..... can you clean them???? or is it once they get fouled they are no longer useful....? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AppleJuz Posted March 4, 2015 Share Posted March 4, 2015 (edited) ^I wouldn't really recommend cleaning them. also, it may just be me but I think you'd better off getting a replacement. I've seen a lot of site suggestion above, I personally prefect rockauto too. you could go with auto parts warehouse too. another one with autopartswarehouse-like rates is car-parts and partsgeek. you should check them out Edited March 5, 2015 by AppleJuz Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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