Jump to content
Ultimate Subaru Message Board

Recommended Posts

Hi folks...  been a while!  I've got 4 question on my O3 Subie Outback Wagon, 2.5L, auto.  A guy who owed my a small bit on money did a job in trade on the car.  He's a backyard mechanic and worked in his hard.  He changed the head gaskets, timing belt, pulleys and water pump, and cleaned and reset the valves, replacing one that was bent.  To get the heads off, he had to undo the motor mounts and lift the engine up and move it side to side a bit.  Car is back together and runs like a dream... no leaks, quiet... seems like the job itself went fine.  However, I'm left with 4 issues, 2 of which are particularly curious.

 

1)  The easiest, I'm guessing...  I now have electrical feedback in the radio that I did not previously have.  An annoying buzzing....

 

2)  When cold, car in park, starting the engine, as soon as it cranks over, there is a mild, but audible 'thunk' from the engine compartment, and you can feel it in the pedals and steering wheel.  One time only, very mild, but definitely there.  Once it starts and warms up, it will not repeat on a restart. 

 

3)  Possibly related to 2... also when cold,  after restarting, there is sometimes a vibration and low rumble in reverse, when backing up.  Again, you feel it in the pedals and wheel, and hear it....  perhaps more when the wheel is turned as you back out.  Again, once warm, it will not do it. 

 

4)  The various exhaust shields on the Y pipe before it comes together and on the catalytic convert and lead in pipe, are loose and making a hell of a racket.  I think I can quiet them up with a normal exhaust clamp tightened down around the end of each one.... anyone see any problems giving that a shot?  Anything else work better?

 

Thanks in advance for any and all help on these questions!  Good to be back lurking on the forum again!

 

Mike

Link to comment
Share on other sites

loose/broken ground(s) wire could make that electrical interference. also, see if it comes/goes with turning the defroster off/on for the hatch. Some of our cars can pick-up noise from a broken heating element/trace

 

clunk thunk? not sure, motor or trans mount could have been damaged with the work - dunno why that would be temp dependent.

 

I've read of many people using hose clamps on heat shields.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Check to make sure the bolts/nuts are tight on the exhaust shields and that all of them are there.  It sounds like some of the externals weren't put back together right and it's better to make sure it's right.

 

As Lucky stated, check the motor mounts.  It could be heat dependent because there is more torque in the engine on a cold start vrs a warm start. 

 

Another thing to check for based on symptoms would be all the flywheel (clutch) bolts are back in place along with the starter bolts and that they are tight.  I would also check all the transmission bolts as well.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

hose clamps...   would do the same thing, but do you think they would hold up to the heat of the exhaust? 

 

The original bolts / connectors for the heat shield are gone / stuck / corroded / rusted away.  The ends are bent up a bit, like someone other than me had it jury rigged as some point...  not sure.  Anyway, I don't think it can be fixed in it's original configuration.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

hose clamps...   would do the same thing, but do you think they would hold up to the heat of the exhaust? 

 

The original bolts / connectors for the heat shield are gone / stuck / corroded / rusted away.  The ends are bent up a bit, like someone other than me had it jury rigged as some point...  not sure.  Anyway, I don't think it can be fixed in it's original configuration.

Prolly bent up to keep the ends from rattling. Got lots of bent ends on my OBW shrouds.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Check the motor mount nuts. One of the mounts will be loaded more than the other when in reverse so it will tend to lift away from the frame and could cause a clunk.

 

I put 2-1/4" exhaust clamps on my heat shields to get rid of the rattles. Works great and no way they're gonna fall off or break.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Those rattling heat-shield are sure a PIA.

The biggest problem is actually locating the source of the rattle.

I've tried hose-clamps, with some success.

And I've tried stuffing material in between the heat-shields and the actual exhaust-pipes (I use clumps of St.St. pot-scourers, bought cheaply at a dollar-store). This works well for a while, especially once I've found the actual location of the rattle.

But it's an ongoing battle (almost 10-years in my case).

I've got the rattle cornered somewhat: the noise is only noticeable when cold, and goes completely away once the engine has warmed up.

Others have suggested torching the shields off. But I haven't got to that point yet.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I'll take a look at the motor mounts first... see if I can track it down....  and thanks for the exhaust tips...  I think I'll use the exhaust clamps... a little heavier they should last longer under there than the hose clamps.  I'd be happy if mine was mostly gone... thing rattles constantly now.  I had thought it was only while idling in traffic until I passed a truck in the interstate with the window down and heard the old boy rattling away at full speed!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

 Share

×
×
  • Create New...