Sapper 157 Posted July 26, 2015 Share Posted July 26, 2015 In the front of a 1984 GL wagon there are two bearings per wheel, right? An Inner and an outer? and would this bearing do for both the inner and the outer? http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=218482&cc=1268344&jnid=418&jpid=5 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TomRhere Posted July 26, 2015 Share Posted July 26, 2015 Yes, two of those bearings. Inner/outer seals are the same also. So two of each per side Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Subasaurus Posted July 26, 2015 Share Posted July 26, 2015 make sure you buy those seals, im still kicking myself for not changing them when i did all 8bearings, now i got grease that i have to clean once a month in the drum brakes.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sapper 157 Posted July 26, 2015 Author Share Posted July 26, 2015 Thanks for the tip about the seals. So if I was repacking my bearings would I also need new seals? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TomRhere Posted July 26, 2015 Share Posted July 26, 2015 Yes. You will need new seals. Seals need to be removed so you can get bearings out. Time for new seals..... 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sapper 157 Posted July 26, 2015 Author Share Posted July 26, 2015 Thanks for the help guys! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
djellum Posted July 26, 2015 Share Posted July 26, 2015 they are technically supposed to be pressed in, so expect a tight fit. tons of people do them without a press, but you may want to check your local machine shop. mine removed the old bearings, tanked the housing, packed and installed new bearings and seals for $35 a side. and I picked them up same day. not a bad route if you have a little extra money. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sapper 157 Posted July 27, 2015 Author Share Posted July 27, 2015 they are technically supposed to be pressed in, so expect a tight fit. tons of people do them without a press, but you may want to check your local machine shop. mine removed the old bearings, tanked the housing, packed and installed new bearings and seals for $35 a side. and I picked them up same day. not a bad route if you have a little extra money. Does that include labor? My shop charges $90 an hour for labor and said it would cost me almost $300 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sapper 157 Posted July 27, 2015 Author Share Posted July 27, 2015 Ordered another bearing and 8 seals. Two for each side in front and two for each one in back Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Subasaurus Posted July 27, 2015 Share Posted July 27, 2015 (edited) wtf $90 each?! i went to the "ghetto" side of my town which is the south side and a machine shop removed the old race and pressed in the new one with a 20,000lb hydraulic press for $25 each rear one (this was 1year ago) the front ones dont need a machine, you can actually do it yourself by hamering the bearing with a 1/4 screwdriver (the one with a hexagon circle on the end) so you don't damage the bearings with a flathead. my 13"inch "H" rims have a hole in the rim, the hub fits perfectly inside so i have something to hold it in place while i work with the bearing. im sure a vice can do the same job. Edited July 28, 2015 by Subasaurus Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TomRhere Posted July 27, 2015 Share Posted July 27, 2015 Really don't need a press for the rear bearings either. Once stub axle is removed, use a piece of brass, aluminum, what have you against the outer bearing and drive it and the outer race from the hub. One should have the new outer race in a plastic bag sitting the freezer overnight before starting the repair. New race will slide right in the housing. Just remember to have the new outer bearing , properly greased, in the outer race before sliding it into the hub. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bratman2 Posted July 27, 2015 Share Posted July 27, 2015 What Tom said, okay I didn't know about the freezer trick. I bought a long brass drift for mine and they are an easy tap out. I use the old bearing to tap in, may be really easy frozen. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
djellum Posted July 28, 2015 Share Posted July 28, 2015 it wasnt complete from the shop, just the machine shop. I still had to pull the housings out of the car and install them, but its only about 7 bolts and I was doing ball joints at the same time anyway. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TomRhere Posted July 28, 2015 Share Posted July 28, 2015 Learned the Freezer Trick years ago. The warmer the ambient temp of the housing the better. Hair dryer, heat gun, hand-held torch used to heat the housing if need be. Don't need to get it Cherry Red or anything like that, just a bit more than you can stand to have your hand on for a few minutes. But one doesn't always need to heat the housing On a 90*+ day, if the housing is getting direct sun, you probably don't need added heat. Last one I did during the Winter cold, I hung the arm in front of my torpedo heater for a few minutes, then slid the cold bearing housing into it. Heat expands, cold contracts. I use it to my advantage when possible. 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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