naru Posted December 11, 2017 Share Posted December 11, 2017 Hopefully I can answer all the questions. Coil is an ACCEL Super Stock 8140 Test Primary at 200 ohms on multi meter =1.2 Test Secondary at 20K ohms on multi meter = 9.14 (9,140) Next Battery ---key run position --- wire end at coil + to light --- to grd. = LIGHT LIGHTS UP Battery ---key run position to wire end at coil to light to coil (+) with all wires hooked up = NO LIGHT Battery -key start position (cranking) - to solenoid - to wire end at coil + to light - to grd. = LIGHT LIGHTS UP Battery ---key start position (cranking) to wire end at coil --- to light --- to coil (+) with all wires hooked up = NO LIGHT Next Checked wire from coil + to ignition module in distributor = Good Checked wire from ignition module in distributor to coil - = Good Distributor Cardone 31-810 remanufactured Thanks for all your help hopefully you can keep coming up with ideas to try I have trouble following this. I cannot tell where you have the leads. If the light stays dark w/connected between coil - and battery - with the key on you have no power. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CWAIS Posted December 11, 2017 Author Share Posted December 11, 2017 Battery ---key run position --- wire end at coil + ( attached to the end of the wire not to the coil) to light --- to ground on engine. = LIGHT LIGHTS UP Battery ---key run position --- to wire end at coil +( attached to the end of the wire not to the coil) to light --- then to coil (+) terminal( with all wires hooked up to coil and dizzy) = NO LIGHT Battery ---key start position (cranking) - to solenoid --- to wire end at coil + ( attached to the end of the wire not to the coil) --- to light - to ground on engine. = LIGHT LIGHTS UP Battery ---key start position (cranking) --- to solenoid --- to wire end at coil + ( attached to the end of the wire not to the coil)--- to light --- to coil (+) terminal (with all wires hooked up to coil and dizzy) = NO LIGHT The circuits that light up I am just saying that I have power all the way to the coil (+) terminal, starting and run position. The coil seems to test out ok When the the lead is hooked up to the positive terminal on coil there is no complete circiut so the light did not go on, not even when cranking. So I am thinking it must be the module in the dizzy. A new ignition module was dropped at my house today so if we can get the reluctor off without breaking something else we will put it in tonight. Hope this helps Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jono Posted December 11, 2017 Share Posted December 11, 2017 Jono - meter readings were posted earlier in #6 if there is something else that you would like me to test I will. I was using the the light tester because that was what NARU had asked me to do. Thanks for your input. I have learnt that is the danger in asking more than one opinion I have found, sorry. There is a heap to read and consider to remotely diagnose, probably harder to assemble all the info you have put in also on your part, frustration not helping, kids losing faith in their teacher Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jono Posted December 11, 2017 Share Posted December 11, 2017 I also have trouble reading your updated description. I would remove the starter switch from the equation for the moment. Hook up a toggle switch to supply battery pos to coil pos with one fused wire to do just one job - that being supply fused 12V battery pos to coil which in turn supplies power to your distributor with electronic ignition module. This would be your RUN position or IGN ON if it was a car ignition switch Hook up a spring loaded type starter switch. Take pos power for it direct from battery pos, through a fuse to starter switch to starter solenoid. Nice fat earth lead from battery to engine block. If it was a car you would also have a nice lead between battery neg and body and probably another earth between block and body for good measure Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jono Posted December 11, 2017 Share Posted December 11, 2017 STEP 1. key in RUN position (better known as IGN ON) --- ign pos (+)wire at coil (+) ( intended to connect at coil pos but is not yet in this test) to test light probe (+) test light earth lead (-) --- to ground on engine. = GOT LIGHT. Yeehah !! so this step looks OK. IGN ON (+) wire from starter switch is not connected to coil yet ? Battery ---key run position --- wire at coil + ( attached to the end of the wire not to the coil) to light --- then to coil (+) terminal( with all wires hooked up to coil and dizzy) = NO LIGHT The blue is where I get confused what you did !! Just a suggestion if you can rewrite steps 2 onards as I have altered your now deemed step 1 ??? Battery ---key start position (cranking) - to solenoid --- to wire end at coil + ( attached to the end of the wire not to the coil) --- to light - to ground on engine. = LIGHT LIGHTS UP Battery ---key start position (cranking) --- to solenoid --- to wire end at coil + ( attached to the end of the wire not to the coil)--- to light --- to coil (+) terminal (with all wires hooked up to coil and dizzy) = NO LIGHT The circuits that light up I am just saying that I have power all the way to the coil (+) terminal, starting and run position. The coil seems to test out ok When the the lead is hooked up to the positive terminal on coil there is no complete circiut so the light did not go on, not even when cranking. So I am thinking it must be the module in the dizzy. A new ignition module was dropped at my house today so if we can get the reluctor off without breaking something else we will put it in tonight. Hope this helps so first line this is test light connected to the wire that would normally be connected to the coil pos but is disconnected at the coil for test purposes? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Knucklehead Saloon Posted December 12, 2017 Share Posted December 12, 2017 Any chance you could draw the ignition wiring circuit on a piece of paper and take a photo and post it up pls ? Actually a few actual pix of the motor might help too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CWAIS Posted December 12, 2017 Author Share Posted December 12, 2017 (edited) Thank you all for your help. Tore the dizzy apart and put in a new module. Had spark right away, pumped the gas pedal twice and it started right up. I would love to post picture but I am not sure how I can do that on this site. Just so you guys know I understood every word I typed on this topic LOL ( Sorry for the poor description). This engine is suppose to be putting out over 100 HP and we are not there yet. So I will be picking your brains for awhile now if you will let me. Carburetor will be the next part to upgrade. We are running a single barrel chrysler bbs right now going into a ea82 intake. We would like to put a 318 2-barrel carb in but we hear more about the weber 32/36 carb. but we will have to save that for another day. Now that we are back up and running and snow on the way this week I will bring it into school and the kids will all get to drive it on the football field. We also have an EJ 251 engine to rebuild for the next airboat project. Edited December 12, 2017 by CWAIS Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jono Posted December 12, 2017 Share Posted December 12, 2017 Great stuff. Join the club in wasting time thus week to find it was the module the whole time! I overhauled my fuel system components before swapping in a used module I had kicking about Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Knucklehead Saloon Posted December 12, 2017 Share Posted December 12, 2017 Awesome you got it sorted !! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
naru Posted December 12, 2017 Share Posted December 12, 2017 I`m sure I am not the only one that would like to see a photo or two of your airboat. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CWAIS Posted December 14, 2017 Author Share Posted December 14, 2017 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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naru Posted December 15, 2017 Share Posted December 15, 2017 WOW! Nice machine. Nice work. Nice shop. You are obviously having too much fun. Thanks for the pics.Looking forward to seeing some more in the future Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jono Posted December 15, 2017 Share Posted December 15, 2017 bringing back memories of Gentle Ben the lads ought to be proud of their joint efforts. It looks great and very professional spfi inlet manifold huh? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CWAIS Posted December 15, 2017 Author Share Posted December 15, 2017 This is the final picture it took me a while to get it to send. Its pretty neat to see what kids can do when they have to work together to make things work. Hope you enjoyed the pictures. Chuck Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Knucklehead Saloon Posted December 15, 2017 Share Posted December 15, 2017 Damn straight that is a fantastic effort !! Very, very cool Chuck ! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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