Knucklehead Saloon

Put each piston on btc and measure the bores with an internal micrometer. Smallest bores with least out of round will tell you which block has the least miles on it or best looked after engine when in use. If it's the one with the pitting you could use an epoxy metal like Devcon to fill the pits then file the face back smooth. That stuff is impervious to water, oil, heat etc etc. I'd also re-ring the pistons of your chosen block while you can. No need to pull down the block for that, gudgeon pin circlips are accessible through bungs on the side of the cylinders. Pull the clips, pull the pins, pull pistons out the top of the block. Cheers, Knuck.

Weird GD.... my mech tradie when I was an apprentice told me it took 10k to bed in mains and bottom ends...

My big hound sits happily in the passenger seat of the brumby with her head sticking out the window. She loves it !

Could also be a big coolant leak from the intake manifold gasket on that bank of cylinders. My money is on valve clearances being too small for that bank though.

I've always used armour all. It's got a UV protectant in it. It's the UV component of sunlight that degrades plastic and makes it brittle and crumbly. Once its weak then the heat / cold cycles typically found inside a car will expand and contract the weakened plastic making it crack. Also recommend dark window tinting if you live in a warm climate to reduce in cabin temps. Cheers.

If you can't find an accessories on wire in the loom under the hood then run power from the red wire at the back of the radio. Cheers.

Exhaust restriction ?

+1 to what DaveT said. Sounds like a collapsed baffle in the muffler or cat. That'll give you a rattle and/or flapping sound and kill top end power. Try getting someone to hold a steady 2000 rpm in the driveway while you stand at the back of the car. Then shut the motor down quick. Alot of times you'll hear a hissing sound as exhaust still escapes past an exhaust blockage. Cheers Knucklehead.

I just replaced mine with aftetmarket generic. Pretty cheap too.

Sweeeeeeet !! Are you going for a custom plenum on top of the spider ?

I must have lucked out. I bought heavy duty front axles from rock auto for my brumby (stock lift). They've been in there for 20,000 now and still going strong. Boots holding up well. Cheers, Knucklehead

Fuel filters, plugs leads n rotor button. When you pull the plugs they'll tell you alot about whats going on from the color.

Mine were knackered at 140k miles

Keen to hear your report mate !

^ what GD said +1 Search through tweety's posts for jetting info if you're unhappy with the supplied jetting in the weber.

#noted Cheers Jono

While the front end is totally pulled apart I'd suggest inspecting / replacing the following: - swaybar bushes (go with nolathane) - front struts (shock absorbers) - disc pads - disc rotors

Awesome !!

I got it wrong too. Its 87 to 107.9mhz here. Pm sent

Cool Bennie thanks ! Subasaurus: Aust radio fm band typically runs from 80mhz to 108mhz. If you want it I'll post it to you. It wasnt hooked up so Ive got no idea if it works or not. PM me your address if you're keen.

Cool idea Bennie ! Did you use the base of the oil bottle or the side ? Is the base thicker plastic ?

G'day from Singleton Australia ! Here's how I did my 80ch UHF radio install. Antenna mounted on rollbar. Close up Old console shot with cassette deck I ripped out to put the UHF in. Removed the whole console to work on it Cassette deck out, look what was underneath.. original radio stuff. The original am/fm hole was hogged out with a hacksaw to take the tape deck. Needed to remove 2 plastic ridges to mount the UHF bracket flush with the internal console housing Had some stainless bolts the right diameter in the shed. They're too long but I cut them down to size. Used a dremel to slot the upper plastic ledge. The plan is to inteference fit the bolt heads under it. Checking slots for bolt diameter clearance here. Bolts measured for cutting UHF radio mounting bracket measured and drilled The bolt heads are an interference fit. That means the heads are taller than the slot clearance. Old plastic is brittle unless you heat it first. Wifey's hairdryer is alot more forgiving than my heat gun so I used that instead Bolts mounted and gently tapped home with a flat blade screwdriver and the palm of my hand for a hammer 4wds are subject to heaps of vibration so spring washers are a must do item Bracket bolted into place UHF head unit bolted up to bracket Here's what the console looks like from the front. I will manufacture a face plate later to make it look pretty Mounting position for the handpiece is on the front of the ashtray And bolted up Looks like this from the front Fuse holder mounted Console installed back in the car. Thinking I'll use the old volume and tone control holes for power window switches later on All systems go ! Job done and works like a ripper ! Cheers, Knucklehead.

ATF is awesome stuff... A little off topic but I've run it in my harley primary (includes wet clutch) for 13 yrs now no problems. Clutch action is better with the ATF but you gotta run an older grade without the friction modifiers (D grade). A retired harley mech put me onto it, he had over 100k miles on his bike and no problems with the primary chain, sprockets or clutch in all that time. Oil always comes out clean too.

All gaskets crush when torqued down unless they're made from steel. I'm guessing you'll need new ones mate.

Hey Bennie, cheers man ! UHF Head unit is not mounted yet but its going in where the original tape deck sits now. I gotta find some plastic fascia so I can custom build a face plate. The 80ch is smaller than the tape deck. Great idea on the rollbar too. Its coming out for a coat of gloss black when I paint out the bed so I'll have a crack at it then (that way I can get the bottom hole facing the side of the tray). Hopefully I can get the uhf installed next tuesday on my day off Cheers, Knucklehead.