Knucklehead Saloon

I drew up what I wanted on a piece of paper and saw a good exhaust dude. Found a shop close by who did custom work on cars and harleys. I got unequal length headers for that suby throb in 1-3/4". From there into a side by side motorcycle type 2" collector-> to 2" hiflow cat -> 2" pipe -> 2" resonator-> 2" turbo pattern muffler. Sounds great, makes more power over 3500rpm. My exhaust fab skills are nowhere near as good as the guys who do it for a living.

Is that application specific or a bastardised engine stand ? Great idea either way.

Omg.. mine died 3 weeks ago at 216k. I got an ac delco reman from rockauto for 90 bills to the door. It was a direct replacement for the hitachi plug and play. The worst part was it crapped out when I was leaving work at 3am in the dark. After 25mins to home my headlights were glow worms and the engine was stuttering but skoob got me home !

Hey mam a DT250a was my 1st bike !!

://m.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_odkw=subaru+1987+gl+exhaust&_from=R40&_trksid=m4084.l1313&_nkw=subaru+1987+gl+exhaust+system www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/subaru,1987,gl,1.8l+h4+ohv,1268467,exhaust+&+emission,exhaust+system+kit,10727

Besides the weber and ignition stuff I also went with an unequal length header and a 2" sports system. The engine comes on the pipe around 3500rpm and makes power right through to 5500. It'll rev to 6100 but just making noise. Next up for me is to port a set of heads and see how that goes. If you search my posts back far enough theres a vid of the pipes/weber and how they sound.

Fm antenna 1.5m - couldn't find a decent height car one, this one's for a boat and ground plane dependent. GME brand from ebay $75. Used a step drill to 20mm to bore the hole. Next was replacement alternator. $175 locally here in Aus, got this one from rockauto to the door for $90. Cheers.

Nope mine are all good.

Wow.. I'm gonna go check mine now !

Aftermarket had a way better impeller design than oem on my ea81. Way bigger vanes.

Are your pulleys lined up dead square ? My brumby had the idler pulley installed back to front when I got it, squealed its rump roast off cos the idler was 1/4" out of line. New gates belt and idler the right way around sorted it.

Is it doing anything else at the same time like getting hot or popping/ backfire or making weird noises ?

Coil lead ?

Fellas I live in singo if you want to use my place as a drop point ?

Hopefully someone else will chime in here about resurfacing the mating face (I dont have that answer soz). If you lighten the flywheel its done on the opposite side.

As in how much weight to remove ? Roughly, for every 1kg (2.2lbs) you remove from the flywheel will give the same effect as removing 40kg from the car when taking off from a standing start. Removing any more than 2kg will make it a bitch to get off the line from reduced flywheel effect. Cheers.

As in how much weight to remove ? Roughly, for every 1kg (2.2lbs) you remove from the flywheel will give the same effect as removing 40kg from the car when taking off from a standing start. Removing any more than 2kg will make it a bitch to get off the line from reduced flywheel effect. Cheers.

I set mine with about 20mm deflection up and down in the middle of the belt... eg just tight enough not to slip. If you run belts too tight they'll kill your altenator inside 3 weeks. New belts are like 20 bucks and cheap insutance. Get gates brand ones. Cheers.

Either a high vaccum air leak from the aircleaner assy or a slipping fanbelt is my guess.

El_freddo: yeah I've already removed the (also super brittle) platic thermovalve you're talking about and blanked off both ends. Jono: cool device ! Does it come with a temp sensor? If not what are you using ?

Yeah I'm running a weber. My hitachi was stuffed after 26yrs. Mines had a cooling issue since day 1 too. The only thing I havnt replaced or modded is the radiator and it's next on my list. I've got a new rad for an auto car sitting in my shed. Will re-route the water pump bypass hose through the auto tranny oil section of the rad to make it a double pass setup. Also have a thermo switch for an alpha romeo thats the same thread pitch and kicks the thermos in 10C cooler. I'm quickly coming to the conclusion that the heated intake manifold is a super dumb design for aussie summers. The ping issue is def heat related..eg.. from 1/3rd up the gauge to just under 1/2 way no ping at all. Over that its ping city on a light throttle under load with higher temps meaning more ping. The last 3 days have been 43c 42c and 45c here (inland hunter valley nsw). I plan to build a new manifold when time permits, re-routing the coolant passages through a stand alone thermostat housing like the aeroplane guys run. I'll make it a tuned length too, tuned for 5500rpm with around 3 to 4L plenum volume. The rad I got off ebay cheap. Its a vaccum brazed tig welded ally job ex china. I'm generally not a fan of chinese parts but the metal fab on it looks really good. The fittings (bungs) are total spoob plastic crap and I'll replace those with some decent stainless or brass ones. Should be a good thing. Won't get to that job till feb though, got rego in 2 weeks so thats tying up the bucks for a bit. I'll take some pix and do a little writeup on the rad job for anyone interested and post it up here in the forum. Cheers, Richo.

In the past Ive had the bimetallic choke spring snap inside the casing and/or disengage from the locking tab (usually plastic) inside the housing, causung the problems you describe. Perhaps pull the auto choke assy off the car and pull it down for a look if you cant set it right ?

I've got an saas boss kit with a nadi wheel in mine. Bought em both from ebay. Cheers.

I made a spacer bracket for mine 80mm long from ally angle iron. Mounts to the original bolt on the intake manifold. On the other end I flipped the original bracket back to front and bolted it on. Minor bracket bending with a 12" shifter and the cable run is almost dead straight. Been on the car for 2 months now with no problems. Also nicked the throttle return spring from my old hitachi and ran it from the weber linkage to the bracket just to the right of the distributor. Stopped run-on on hot days. Cheers.

The clearances close up in cast iron engines true.. however I believe the ally block / head combo grows taller than the (short) pushrods in the boxer engine. The 60 primary idle has alleviated the light throttle ping a fair bit. Its only noticeable now when the temp gauge climbs over 1/2 way on a real hot day. I wouldn't go any bigger than the 60 though. It made the idle mixture screw setting a lot more touchy to get right on the 32/36. I beleive there's an enriching circuit in there too that kicks in around 2500 to 3000 rpm (right where the problem is). Thats the next thing I'm going to investigate cheers.