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A Clunk in the rear... worn shocks?


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9 replies to this topic

#1 syphon

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Posted 17 August 2004 - 02:52 PM

The car is a '93 Turbo Legacy sedan.

So whenever I go over mild bumps (like a bumpy road or whatever) there's a clunk the rear. Doesn't happen over speedbumps or anything big like that, but it's enough to make me think my shocks are worn.

Does this sound right to you guys? I'm not so good at diagnosing suspension problems but this sounds likely. I've read of some of the symptoms, and that seems to likely culprit.

What's the most efficient way to replace these? On my old wagon, I scored a set of shocks with springs for a good price. Am I likely to find the same deal for my Legacy?

And lastly, does anyone have or know of a set of stock shocks (and springs) for sale?

#2 Sweet82

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Posted 17 August 2004 - 04:20 PM

My Camry recently started making a clunk in the back end.........sure enough it was the shocks. In slow mild bumps it was noticable but out on the road they were quiet?

I was lucky and got them replaced under warantee.

Sounds like a shock/strut to me.

Glenn
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#3 scooby dooo

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Posted 17 August 2004 - 09:05 PM

Have you already replaced the front struts? My 93 legacy complained about struts in the front around 150k, but never rear.

#4 jcniest5

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Posted 17 August 2004 - 10:46 PM

It's very easy to replace shocks/struts if you have the required tools. Otherwise, better leave it to the shop to do it. The hardest part is to use compress tool to compress the spring before you take out the shock. I bought a set from auto parts store and I can do it, although it's somewhat time consuming. You will really need a set of strong rope to help. The compress tool set (two of them) just aren't going to be enough as I found out. Probably I didn't get a good set.

#5 timn29

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Posted 18 August 2004 - 09:31 AM

I noticed the same problem/sound last week at 184,000 mi. in my '98 OBW. I think it's my shocks/struts as well because my '88 DL did the same thing, but much louder and I had the rear shocks replaced and that solved it. Thanks for confiming my suspicion.
Now...the price, anybody have any ideas what this is going to cost?

#6 timn29

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Posted 18 August 2004 - 01:10 PM

Is re-alignment necessary with replacement of new rear struts?

#7 mtsmiths

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Posted 18 August 2004 - 02:42 PM

can we replace the struts on our '00 and '95 Legacies with OB struts?

I love the way the Legacies handle on the road, but really need a bit more height in winter. Especially on our driveway in Whitefish.

#8 timn29

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Posted 19 August 2004 - 11:11 AM

How difficult exactly (on a scale of 1-5) is replacing the rear struts on a '98 OBW? Like compared to replacing the spark plugs say?

I'm mechanically inclined and love to work on cars (did extensive work on my 1974 MGB), but would hate to bite-off more than I can chew with the family car.
I'm also tired of getting jacked around by dishonest mechanics especially at the Subaru dealership near my house.

#9 syphon

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Posted 19 August 2004 - 04:42 PM

I did the shocks on my old '85 GL wagon, and it was very easy. 3 bolts (granted they were TOUGH bolts). I havent a clue how the suspension on the legacy is though.

Also, are the parts the same for turbo, N/A, and wagon? what years?

#10 frag

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Posted 19 August 2004 - 07:16 PM

Just did the four struts on my 96 Brighton.
Not complicated but time consuming if, like me, it's the first time you're doing it.
Here's some advice.
1) Buy a Haynes manual for your car, it gives the essential.
2) You have to find a suitable tool to compress the springs. I borrowed one from Canadian Tire here in Monteal. You pay for the tool and they give you back your money when you take it back. It took me a while to get the hang of this tool but it's safe and does the work. An impact wrench (air or electrical) speeds up compressing the springs and can also be useful for removing the big bolts that hold the strut to the knuckle.
2) Another problem is the nut that holds the piston rod to the strut support (just under the rubber cap on the struts towers under the hood.0 The nut is in a recess and you have to hold the piston rod steady to unfasten and fasten. Three possible solutions: a) find the special tool; B) make a tool (that's what I did: welded a 17 mm socket inside the box end of a suitable wrench. It makes possible to put a 6mm hexagonal wrench thru the socket to hold the piston rod steady; c) just go at it with an impact wrench with a little prudence.
3) The three blots holding the strut support to the tower are no problem at all.
4) There are two bolts that hold the strut to the wheel knuckle. In front, the top one is cam shaped and is responsible for the camber adjustement. There is a reference mark on the strut and reference bars on the bolt's head. I put everything back in the same positon, did not have an alignment made and all seems perfect after more than 2K kilometers. the nuts are self locking and I would advise buying new nuts.
5) These big bolts could be rusted and give you trouble. I had no problem except with the right rear ones. I had to use a breaker bar with pipe extension and the help of someone holding the nut still to break it loose.
6) Last problem is the brake hoses. Someone on this board advised not to removed the hose (and have to bleed the brakes) but to cut part of the metal tab holding the hose, bend it out, free the hose and do the reverse at reinstallation. That's what I did. Used a Dremel. Works fine once you've removed the spring clip that holds the hose connection tight. Only had a problem replacing one of the spring clip and finally used a nylon tie wrap (maybe not the right expression but you know what I'm referring to) instead.
That's it.
Good luck!




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