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EA82 waterpump replacement


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27 replies to this topic

#1 Caboobaroo

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Posted 27 November 2004 - 09:06 PM

So since I have this lack of experience working on EA82's, I need to replace my waterpump and I just want to know what needs to be removed before I start so I can have Andrew assist me (cause he's in Denver right now) in case I mess up. So I know I need to remove the fronts of the timing belt covers but now I'm lost and I would go out there and figure it out buts its like 20 degrees out there BRRRRR!!!!!

#2 sandman

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Posted 27 November 2004 - 09:22 PM

The right side timing belt needs to come off also. I found it much easier to pull the bracket assembly that holds the AC and the alternator to get to everything. I've got mine torn down now to get to the oil pump.

#3 Caboobaroo

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Posted 27 November 2004 - 09:25 PM

thats what I was afraid of. I don't know anything about resetting timing belts...... and Andrew is prolly gonna get stuck in Denver tomorrow too.... so what would I have to do in order to reset the timing belt?

#4 sandman

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Posted 27 November 2004 - 09:28 PM

The how-to on this site is what got me through the first oil pump change. Its not too bad once you figure out the three lines and then rotate thing. I've been into it a few times. Twice for the oil pump and once for the water pump. :banghead:

#5 Flowmastered87GL

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Posted 28 November 2004 - 12:28 AM

You do NOT need to remove the timing belts to do the water pump. I did it on my 86 turbowagon in Andrew's driveway, I took out the radiator and took off the timing covers, but thats about it. You may want to move the AC compressor and alternator up or over or something so you can see what you are doing.

I also did it on my GL in the morning, and was able to get the thing back together for work at 5PM, also no timing belt removal necessary. Best thing to do is yank the radiator and covers, then look at the NEW pump to see where it goes in. Make sure to change the O ring on the water tube (hard line to radiator), the gasket against the engine and the elbow hose that goes to the heater core.

#6 CIS Subaru

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Posted 28 November 2004 - 09:00 AM

Also, make sure that your new pump has the pulley flange the same distance from the pump housing as your old one or your pulley won't line up when you're done. There are two water pumps for EA82 cars, one for cars with factory A/C, and one for non-A/C and dealer installed A/C cars. I've had one of each, so I can't remember which was which.

#7 Flowmastered87GL

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Posted 28 November 2004 - 11:49 AM

I believe his car should take the long type with studs. I had an engine out of an 87 RX though that had the short type with bolts, but generally I would say its the stud one. I think Russ established he has the long type of pump a while ago (the cheaper one too!)

#8 Caboobaroo

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Posted 28 November 2004 - 08:01 PM

yeah it is the long type waterpump with studs instead of bolts. So I got the fornts of either side of the timing belt covers off but now I need to remove the crank pulley so I can remove the center piece, then remove the old waterpump right? I got a new O-ring with the new pump along with the gasket but no hose and with only having like a $1.50 in pennies and I don't get paid for another few days, AND with 4" of snow on the ground......yeah you get the idea;)

#9 sandman

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Posted 28 November 2004 - 08:38 PM

I looked at mine and does look like it can be pulled without removing the timing belts. My bad.

#10 Caboobaroo

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Posted 29 November 2004 - 06:52 PM

w00t!!! I did it in about an hour last night before I went to work. A lot easier then I was thinking it was going to be!!

#11 DrKrazy

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Posted 29 November 2004 - 07:00 PM

So did you run it for more than a couple of seconds?

#12 Caboobaroo

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Posted 29 November 2004 - 08:57 PM

yeah it ran ok....but the only problems now is that is smokes like a steamship due to either a blown headgasket or a cracked head, and the turbo is spitting oil from somewhere but I haven't dug into it yet. So now comes the reseal kit, TD04 turbo upgrade, cams from WJM and a few other mods while I have the engine out. Hopefully I can get most of the parts I need within the next month...:-\ Other then that it ran pretty good!

#13 nkx

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Posted 26 August 2006 - 09:17 PM

ok, bumpin a old thread here... i dont have to take the timing covers off to get the WP out, but i do have to remove the crank pulley, correct? and do i have to get a new o-ring for the water inlet tube from the dealer?

#14 Caboobaroo

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Posted 26 August 2006 - 09:43 PM

ok, bumpin a old thread here... i dont have to take the timing covers off to get the WP out, but i do have to remove the crank pulley, correct? and do i have to get a new o-ring for the water inlet tube from the dealer?


wow, this is an old thread. Anyways, yes you have to remove the crank pulley and radiator, makes it much more easier to get to things. ALso, you'll need to remove the outer timing bolt covers from the center and the driver side. Then remove the pulley from the waterpump, remove 5, maybe 6 10mm bolts from the waterpump, disconnect the tube form the top and the side and slide it on out. You don't have to get a new o-ring, I never did, Just get a little blue RTV sealant on it when you put it back together and stuff it back onto the waterpump. I never had a problem but its always a wise decision to make sure there's no cracks in it before reassembling it.

#15 nkx

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Posted 26 August 2006 - 11:37 PM

ok, cool. guess i get to tackle pulling the crank pulley tomorrow.

#16 Caboobaroo

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Posted 26 August 2006 - 11:53 PM

ok, cool. guess i get to tackle pulling the crank pulley tomorrow.


Easiest way to unbolt the crank pulley, is by putting the car into 5th gear, and putting a breaker bar or a ratchet (both 1/2" drive) onto the crank pulley with the correct socket (I use a 7/8":rolleyes: ) and break that sucker loose. If the car tries to move on you, put the parking brake on as well. I don't have a parking brake so I pushed against the car while I broke it loose.

#17 nkx

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Posted 27 August 2006 - 12:20 AM

i was surprised to find out i actually own a 22mm socket! yay tool sales!

#18 Syonyk

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Posted 27 August 2006 - 08:45 AM

Being in the middle of this project...

You can use a breaker bar & a 22mm socket propped against something and bump the starter (WITH THE COIL DISCONNECTED SO THE ENGINE DOESN"T START!) to pop the crank pulley nut free.

And make sure you clean all the old gasket off. Also, old o-rings seem to have a way of disintegrating when they come off.

-=Russ=-

#19 nkx

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Posted 27 August 2006 - 08:47 PM

And make sure you clean all the old gasket off. Also, old o-rings seem to have a way of disintegrating when they come off.


is there a good chemical solution to get all the gasket off? or the blue crap that was on the gasket, which im guessing was is rtv??

#20 Caboobaroo

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Posted 27 August 2006 - 09:17 PM

is there a good chemical solution to get all the gasket off? or the blue crap that was on the gasket, which im guessing was is rtv??


wire brush and a gasket scraper are your friends. If you have a wire wheel attachment for a drill, that makes it go a lot smoother.

#21 nkx

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Posted 27 August 2006 - 10:04 PM

i scraped off the majority of the blue stuff with my newly purchased gasket scraper. (yay forethought!) isnt a wire wheel going to mess up the surface of the block?

#22 GeneralDisorder

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Posted 27 August 2006 - 10:34 PM

i scraped off the majority of the blue stuff with my newly purchased gasket scraper. (yay forethought!) isnt a wire wheel going to mess up the surface of the block?


No - wire wheel works good actually. You use a soft (thin) wire and just go slow and careful. It will shine up the surface, but it won't hurt it unless you make a career out of the job.

GD

#23 Subaru_dude

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Posted 27 August 2006 - 11:05 PM

what's that little hole in the top of the wp for?? i seen coolant puddled around that hole... time for a new waterpump??

#24 Syonyk

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Posted 27 August 2006 - 11:14 PM

what's that little hole in the top of the wp for?? i seen coolant puddled around that hole... time for a new waterpump??


It's a weep hole. Any coolant that gets past the waterpump seal will, ideally, leak out from one of those holes.

That said, any coolant coming from those holes means the water pump is in need of replacement. Usually, but not always, you'll get weeping from the holes before the water pump seal totally fails & just dumps coolant everywhere. So, yes, you want to replace the water pump ASAP, and keep an eye on your coolant level until then.

-=Russ=-

#25 GeneralDisorder

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Posted 27 August 2006 - 11:15 PM

Once it gets past the seal, the grease is shot in the bearing, so it's not long before it's a gonner.

GD




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