Welcome to Ultimate Subaru Message Board, my lurker friend!
|Welcome to Ultimate Subaru Message Board, an unparalleled Subaru community full of the greatest Subaru gurus and modders on the planet! We offer technical information and discussion about all things Subaru, the best and most popular all wheel drive vehicles ever created.
We offer all this information for free to everyone, even lurkers like you! All we ask in return is that you sign up and give back some of what you get out - without our awesome registered users none of this would be possible! Plus, you get way more great stuff as a member! Lurk to lose, participate to WIN*!
* The joy of participation and being generally awesome constitutes winning
** Not an actual guarantee, but seriously, you probably won't regret it!
Serving the Subaru Community since May 18th, 1998!
emissions BS (kinda long)
Posted 23 August 2003 - 03:25 PM
Tailpipe emissions:boohoo: :
HC and CO2 levels are through the roof. Probably too much so to try the alcohol trick. The mechanic says that it's running way rich. I also have noticed a drop in fuel economy recently, and the two rear spark plugs seem kinda dark and much darker than the front two. He seems to think that the carb is dumping fuel in. I'm thinking I need to get the carb rebuilt.
Visual inspection:madder: : (here's the ugly part)
What the report says: Major vacuum leaks, vacuum lines/wiring modified, oxygen sensor inoperable, egr removed, warm air valve modified.
What I make of this: The car runs great so there can't be any major vacuum leaks. I have experimented with some vacuum stuff to get the secondary to open better, which is now disconnected and not doing anything,but still there with some open lines that are plugged on the other end. My car has a two-barrel Hitachi, which to the best of my knowledge has NO computers whatsoever,and did not come with an O2 sensor. There is an O2 sensor on the vehicle, however, because I installed a new Y-pipe from a later-year car that has a sensor in it. There is nothing to connect the sensor to. WTF? They say that the egr was removed or modified. I find that interesting because I have inspected the egr and its operation in great detail, and it is all there and in perfect working condition. The warm air valve was in fact disconnected as part of a successful experiment.
Until I pass the I.M., I can't park on campus, so it has to be done even if it costs several hundred dollars to do so. GRRRRRRRR.
Any helpful ideas?
Posted 23 August 2003 - 04:22 PM
what is there a invisible air shield around said campus preventing the rest of the air from getting in
that you car may ruin?
Posted 23 August 2003 - 04:48 PM
Posted 23 August 2003 - 06:30 PM
As for the tailpipe test - I second the Weber - it will improve your performace and mileage greatly.
Posted 24 August 2003 - 04:02 PM
I now have a plan: Tomorrow morning, the car is going to what appears to be a pretty reasonable I.M. place that also does repairs. I have already returned everything to stock and adjusted the idle mixture a bit lean. The place I'm going to this time actually gets it that the O2 sensor can just sit there, and they did suggest the plug idea as well. Just before I go, the car (not me) is going to ingest a large quantitiy of alcohol. If I can get it to pass this time, then I can figure out what to do next. A redline weber is probably the way to go if that will pass I.M. The more likely solution will be putting on my good spare carb when I go home for Thanksgiving, or maybe have it mailed to me. If it doesn't pass this time, I will park it at a friend's house until I can get a different carb on it.
The biggest problem arises in the fact that my dad has no respect for my mechanical abilities, for my car as a whole, or for vehicle modifications such as weber carbs, so he will probably make me get if professionally fixed and kept stock, which will just run up a huge bill for me and I will end up with a stock vehicle that still doesn't run any better than it does now.
Also, I suspect that the ignition timing is a couple degrees behind what it should be, since I haven't set it for a year and a half. What sort of effect could this have? I don't have a timing light at this point, so it can't really help anyway, but I would like to find out.
Posted 24 August 2003 - 07:55 PM
poor mans way to set timming that worked fairly well for me in a pinch was use a vacum gauge and adjust timming till teh highest vacum was achieved tehn back just a hair and go for a drive listen for pings
if there is a few back one more hair or 2
Posted 25 August 2003 - 11:03 AM
Posted 25 August 2003 - 11:40 PM
According to the big exhaust cheese in the city of Anchorage, my engine has japanese-spec emissions stuff, so it can never pass here. The area of concern is a little pipe that is either for exhaust or air that connects to the passenger side head near the exhaust port. Apparently it has to connect to the other side as well. If that is true, I'm hosed, or at least that engine is.
However, there are a few lights at the end of this long dark tunnel. They did give me a temporary sticker that lasts until november first. I do have a car back in Haines that can pass (Ruby), which I can bring up during Thanksgiving break. I wouldn't like having Ruby as my primary car, though, because of her 3 speed auto, single range 4wd, and the fact that she isn't tricked out like Roxanne. Also, one of my professors here said that if I bring the car to class on saturday, he can figure it out and help me adjust the carb and things to get it to pass. He says that this Japanese-spec difference has to be B.S. and that the tailpipe readings that I had before are easily dealt with without any changing of carbs or anything major. In addition, if all of this fails and Roxanne is doomed in her present state, then ea82 turbo swap here we come! OR, maybe if I can use Ruby as my transportation for a while, Roxanne can be blessed with a healthy dose of EJ20T.
So, my remaining question is: Does anybody know what the deal is with this Japanese vs. American emissions stuff?
Any help can be appreciated, as this may deprive me of my dear sweet Roxanne except for during the summers when I'm in Haines.
Posted 26 August 2003 - 12:15 PM
I second the BS call on the cheese! "must connect to both sides?
The stove pipe sends exhaust gases to the intake manifold for the EGR valve to dump into the mix under load. Why you need exhaust gas from both sides would be beyond me. Just what I think I know....which isn't necessarly correct.
Posted 26 August 2003 - 05:10 PM
0 user(s) are reading this topic
0 members, 0 guests, 0 anonymous users