Welcome to Ultimate Subaru Message Board, my lurker friend!
|Welcome to Ultimate Subaru Message Board, an unparalleled Subaru community full of the greatest Subaru gurus and modders on the planet! We offer technical information and discussion about all things Subaru, the best and most popular all wheel drive vehicles ever created.
We offer all this information for free to everyone, even lurkers like you! All we ask in return is that you sign up and give back some of what you get out - without our awesome registered users none of this would be possible! Plus, you get way more great stuff as a member! Lurk to lose, participate to WIN*!
* The joy of participation and being generally awesome constitutes winning
** Not an actual guarantee, but seriously, you probably won't regret it!
Serving the Subaru Community since May 18th, 1998!
Help! Emergency! 91 Legacy Stranded (Still)
Posted 25 August 2003 - 11:34 PM
Posted 26 August 2003 - 12:01 AM
or did they use aluminum to help reduce total curb weight? LMAO
Posted 26 August 2003 - 08:54 AM
Try to keep all replies in one thread so others can read the background info too.
Posted 28 August 2003 - 08:51 AM
Posted 28 August 2003 - 10:30 AM
PLEASE let us know what they find - don't leave us hanging OK?
1 Lucky Texan
Posted 28 August 2003 - 11:07 PM
Posted 29 August 2003 - 01:06 AM
I can't even see a crank suffering damage with an interference engine. Maybe valves and pistons, but not the crank, unless its the keyway. I know many people who have had belts break and engine damage on other cars, but no crank problems.
I would have them put the belt back on correctly, with a new tensioner, new seals, and see if it lights up. Or you could do it yourself again.
I hate dealership "mechanics" anyway. Not a crack team of professionals, but a professional team on crack!
Posted 29 August 2003 - 06:28 AM
Unless you heard noises (not rough running - actual metal on metal sounds) then the valves should be OK. If this is a SOHC engine, from what I've read, the valves won't hit each other anyway.
If you have the skills, time ,inclination, fix it yourself. I certainly wouldn't have this dealership do the work UNLESS they can 'buy' you confidence after some 'face time'..
1 Lucky Texan
(thanx for the update!)
Posted 29 August 2003 - 06:35 AM
just a heads up
1 Lucky Texan
Posted 29 August 2003 - 07:54 AM
At most I'd suggest replacing the oil pump, timing belt & tensioner.....and if you haven't been in there to replace the crank & cam seals, do that too.
Posted 29 August 2003 - 12:12 PM
Posted 29 August 2003 - 12:41 PM
Posted 29 August 2003 - 01:33 PM
Originally posted by theotherskip
i've used a bunch of haynes and chiltons manuals in the past, and they all seem to be very hit or miss. it depends on how close the car they disassembled to write the book is to yours. when you get the "blanket" books that cover many years and many engines and model revisions, they are often very bad.
i usually lean more towards haynes, and the subaru one is pretty good, though i don't know for an earlier legacy. i've know chiltons to have very wrong info more than a few times. a friend was trying everything to remove a crank bolt. chilton's didn't mention the fact that the bolt was reverse thread !!
Maybe the 2.5 engine is reverse thread?
Posted 29 August 2003 - 01:39 PM
Removing the crank pullys mostly give no problem, surtainly not now as in an other post you said you replaced the T belt recently.
Posted 30 August 2003 - 11:13 AM
Posted 30 August 2003 - 05:59 PM
So here's what I found: Some eejit must not have tightened the crank pulley bolt sufficiently when they changed the T belt! Oops, mea culpa. I distinctly remember using the torque wrench so perhaps its not all my fault, I read somewhere on USMB that the given torque setting is wrong and should be 110-130 ft#. I don't remember what I torqued it too but not enough obviously. It wasn't a complete write-off thank goodness. The crank pulley got loose and wobbly, ate the timing cover and I can only assume caused the T belt to jump a couple of teeth. Does this seem logical, I can't find any other reason for the belt to skip. Good news is that the keyway in the crank is still fine, the key is hooped and the keyway in the crank pulley is a little iffy. I have a new key and pulley from my donor car though. now in the process of refitting everything.... Lorry
Posted 31 August 2003 - 12:55 AM
Posted 31 August 2003 - 07:24 PM
Posted 01 September 2003 - 11:38 AM
Posted 01 September 2003 - 06:46 PM
Posted 02 September 2003 - 06:17 AM
Posted 03 September 2003 - 01:04 PM
Posted 03 September 2003 - 11:28 PM
Posted 03 September 2003 - 11:59 PM
Im really curious as to what the tech at the dealership was indicating was wrong to your wife.
0 user(s) are reading this topic
0 members, 0 guests, 0 anonymous users