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overheating any secrets on bleading radiator


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94 liberty awd 2.2litre read threads and seem subarus have a problem with it. I have and was wondering if any one knows a way to be totaly shore on how to bleed the radiator AND WHAT PRESSURE radiator cap ive got 90 writen on mine, i think my rough iddling is no coolant on injector sensor and that 50mm or so above radiator cap even radiator mecanic says thay have a problem going and try parking on a steep hill and let it cool down then fill

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My car (see sig) has got a bleed screw on the top of the radiator on the passenger side (LHD). It has a X phillips-type head on it. If you elevate the front of the car a bit this is a good point to bleed from, provided your rad has the same.

 

-Heikki

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have the same problem with my 2.2 have had no joy with incline bleeding... still looking for an answer...am thinking about fitting a tee piece in the "higher" heater hose ... i dunno yet but am desparate for a "good" fix that will give me a good result every time i change coolant...

That's probably 90 KPa, or roughly 0.9 Bar. You might want to a new one, as the seals and spring do weaken with time. Do the coolant hoses go hard once the engine is warmed up? They should.

 

Slight incline bleeding is the way to go.

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plumbing in a "T" at the highest rad. hose or heater core tubing is a good idea, i was gonna try that but said screw it. on legacy's previously mentioned, there is a bleed screw, loosen it and ijack up car about 16'' in front, fill and work the air bubbles out.

 

 

 

 

~Josh~

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I have the proper tool! It's a "cooling system vacuum venturi" I got it from Matco tools ...Since I'm a mechanic it was a worthwhile investment . I was done changing coolant in about 3min. It's a very nice tool and you can check leaks as well with it .No air to purge period !

 

I will find a pic and post.

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I use the same funnel-tool that 99obw uses. GET ONE - they're great.

 

I've tried the ramp bleeding thing several times, but I'm concerned is that if the engine is inclined too far backwards, some air pockets may tend to get trapped in the front cylinder cooling jackets rather than exiting out into the X-over pipe.

 

I dunno.

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I have the proper tool! It's a "cooling system vacuum venturi" I got it from Matco tools ...Since I'm a mechanic it was a worthwhile investment . I was done changing coolant in about 3min. It's a very nice tool and you can check leaks as well with it .No air to purge period !

 

I will find a pic and post.

 

Can you give a brief explanation of what this tool does?

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I would like to know more about this tool also.

TIA.

In a nutshell, it's a tall-sided funnel that attaches securely to the filler neck of your radiator via it's own "radiator cap" at it's bottom.

 

It allows you to have extra coolant in the funnel while you heat the motor, blip the throttle and burp the top hose.

 

When you've had enough, you close off the bottom of the funnel by inserting the long plug (from the top), remove the funnel from the filler opening and dump the remaining coolant back into the jug.

 

It's almost a work of art.

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BEEN USING THOSE HERE ...BUT AM STILL EXPERIENCING PROBLEMS...THEY DO WORK WELL BUT IM DAMNED IF IT'LL DO MY SOOB..

In a nutshell, it's a tall-sided funnel that attaches securely to the filler neck of your radiator via it's own "radiator cap" at it's bottom.

 

It allows you to have extra coolant in the funnel while you heat the motor, blip the throttle and burp the top hose.

 

When you've had enough, you close off the bottom of the funnel by inserting the long plug (from the top), remove the funnel from the filler opening and dump the remaining coolant back into the jug.

 

It's almost a work of art.

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