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Legacy M/T shift linkage photos here!


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Here are some pics of a manual transmission shift linkage and assembly from underneath the car. The pics are captioned for easier comprehension. I recently had to replace worn out bushings, so I got some pics to share.

check them out if you like.

Matt D

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Hey that's great! Thanks for the pics!

 

I've got a 95 legacy wagon and I was fiddling with the linkage this past weekend; the brushings are shot and the spring was missing. The spring was easily replaced, but I couldn't get at the linkeage easily. What's the best way to remove the linkage? Remove the shift lever bolt and then pop out the pin on the transmission side (where you have a carriage bolt)? The pin looked very small, anyone know if it screws or taps out? Thanks!

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What I did was started on top, and then went underneath.

 

First I removed the center console and trim pieces, (just a few screws) then I removed the six screws that hold the metal plate that secures the rubber shift boot to the floor of the car. I also removed the 12 mm bolt that holds the shifter to the shift rod.

 

Then I went underneath, and removed the 12mm nut from the lower shifter support arm. It is not very tight, and came off easily. Then I slid the lower arm off the stud, and pulled the arm forward to disengage the rear of the support from its bushing. Then with a little twisting and turning, I was able to position the lower shift arm out of the way, on the opposite side of the driveshaft, so there was more room to work.

 

The heat shield on my car was already loose, which made it easier to reach around under there. If yours is still attached, you're going to want to remove the bolts that hold it down so you can get the heat shield out of your way.

 

Next, I removed the 12 mm bolt that holds the shift rod to the linkage on the transmission. You need to reach a wrench of some kind (like a small box-end wrench) over the top of the linkage to secure the 12mm nut, then loosen the bolt from underneath. I used a u-joint and a 12mm socket and long extension to gain better access to the bolt head.

 

When that bolt is removed, the whole shifter assembly can be removed from inside the vehicle. You can inspect it and clean it up if you like.

 

The last, and most difficult step is removing the pin that secures the linkage to the transmission stub. I used a 1/4 inch pin punch, a hammer, and a lot of penetrating oil. It was frustrating, but it eventually came out. I was using a wimpy hammer, though. It helped me to use a 1/4 inch drill to drill a recess into the end of the pin to help the punch sit still instead of bounce off. I also would use a small sledge hammer, like 4 lbs or so, to get more force.

 

Then the linkage can be removed from its connection to the transmission. It will be rusted on, so use more penetrating fluid and a hammer to help loosen it.

 

Putting it back together is the reverse of removal. And, much quicker. The replacement linkage comes as a complete assembly, it cost me about 58 dollars (rip-off). You can also order any other bushings, pins, spacers, that you might need.

 

I am temporarily using that bolt instead of the pin to hold it onto the transmission shaft, because the dealer forgot to order the pin that's supposed to go in there. In a day or two, that will be replaced with the proper hardware.

 

For even more info, check out this link:

 

http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=742063

 

Matt

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  • 11 months later...

The photos are from underneath.

 

Of course, my digital camera is much smaller than my head, so I was able to get access to some areas that you might not easily see normally, but it gives some real perspective to thhee arrangement and location of the parts.

 

matt

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When I removed the shift linkage from a 98 Legacy 5MT, there were two roll pins that held the linkage onto the shaft at the tranny side. One is about the same diameter as the ones that hold the front halfshafts to the tranny, and the other was around that. You take out the small one, then the larger one can be gotten out easier. Installation is the reverse of removal, of course. with this method, there is no drilling and the pins are reusable.

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Thus is the plight of the USMB. There are all these great write-ups for topics that were first documented years ago, but all the people who posted the write-ups (at least most of them it seems) are no longer around, and the links to pics and/or write-ups are all dead now! :(

 

If I feel ambitious tomorrow after work I'll put my car on a lift and take some pics.

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