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toy diff?


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14 replies to this topic

#1 jaws dawg

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Posted 07 October 2005 - 05:21 PM

Has anybody ever thought about using a toyota front diff in the bach of their EA? A little insane I know, but would this not allow the use of a air or cable diff lock?

#2 soobme

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Posted 07 October 2005 - 05:45 PM

I have thought about useing a rear Toyota 3rd member and making my oun housing/mount (all 1 pice) and then just haveing stub axles cut for it.

#3 Hondasucks

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Posted 07 October 2005 - 06:04 PM

yeah shortening axles isn't all that hard.. If I'm not mistaken, Toyota rear axles are a drop-out third member (Like a Ford 9" or Chrysler 8 3/4"), and there are enough 'Yota folks out there I'm sure there are the shortening jigs out there to shorten a Toyota axle.. I don't know about the axle shafts themselves, I've never seen one. If the axle shaft itself is smaller than the splines, then a custom shaft will have to be made, but if the shaft is the same size or bigger than the splines area, it can simply be cut and new splines pressed in (Don't get them cut in, it's weaker).

#4 Qman

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Posted 08 October 2005 - 02:08 AM

yeah shortening axles isn't all that hard.. If I'm not mistaken, Toyota rear axles are a drop-out third member (Like a Ford 9" or Chrysler 8 3/4"), and there are enough 'Yota folks out there I'm sure there are the shortening jigs out there to shorten a Toyota axle.. I don't know about the axle shafts themselves, I've never seen one. If the axle shaft itself is smaller than the splines, then a custom shaft will have to be made, but if the shaft is the same size or bigger than the splines area, it can simply be cut and new splines pressed in (Don't get them cut in, it's weaker).


And you would need to do this why? Have you measured a Subaru track vs a Toyota track lately? 58" is the magic number. You'll need a late model rear diff to match the track. Yeah I thought about it a bit.

I currently have an Isuzu rear axle in my Brat. Lot's of travel, ARB, rear disc brakes, what more could a Subaru owner want?

#5 soobme

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Posted 08 October 2005 - 05:19 AM

I hear ya man!!! I'm still kickin' around the idea of a strait axle out back and the stock trans/diff. up front for the new car.

#6 jaws dawg

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Posted 11 October 2005 - 05:43 PM

I went to the junky yard on sunday to pick up a radiator and looked at the front IFS diff out of a toy and a mitsu. they are all shifted to the passenger side with exceptionally long stubs on the drivers side.

so,
1. Shorten the right stub
2. weld up and relocate the breather to the bottom side of the diff
3. Fab a mount for the diff
3. install the diff upside down
4. find matching gears for the rear
5. have custom axles made for the rear (cv on the outside, spider joint on the inside)
6. have driveline made or adapt stock to toy.

How's it sound? Viable or just nuts?

pros' cons'
1. can run it on the street 1. difficult
2. can put lockers in it 2. Umm Uhh nope can't think of anymore
3. Ground clearance!!

#7 Scott in Bellingham

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Posted 11 October 2005 - 05:49 PM

I went to the junky yard on sunday to pick up a radiator and looked at the front IFS diff out of a toy and a mitsu. they are all shifted to the passenger side with exceptionally long stubs on the drivers side.

so,
1. Shorten the right stub
2. weld up and relocate the breather to the bottom side of the diff
3. Fab a mount for the diff
3. install the diff upside down
4. find matching gears for the rear
5. have custom axles made for the rear (cv on the outside, spider joint on the inside)
6. have driveline made or adapt stock to toy.

How's it sound? Viable or just nuts?

pros' cons'
1. can run it on the street 1. difficult
2. can put lockers in it 2. Umm Uhh nope can't think of anymore
3. Ground clearance!!




would this be for the back?

I like the idea

#8 soobme

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Posted 12 October 2005 - 04:08 AM

Just get a rear axle from an '81 4WD Toyota PU (came stock with 3.90 gears) and cut the housing off just outside of the 3rd member on each side. Weld in plates w/bearing cariers in 'em and have some stub axles made with the Toy inner splines, and the Sube outer splines. Then U dont have to flip anthing and have to worie about oiling issues, and U get the right gears with it. U can get lockers, LSD's, ect. for the early ones too (it's still a Toy 8");)

#9 Qman

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Posted 12 October 2005 - 04:14 AM

Way too much work with minimal, if any benefits. You have to match the ratio of the front diff. Most 'yota's are 4.11-1. Mitsu, I don't know.

What are you working towards here? If we know what your goal is maybe the rest wil make sense.

#10 jaws dawg

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Posted 12 October 2005 - 11:24 AM

Q Man,
1. I use the car all the time so it has to be streetable
2. it is my huntin' / fishin' rig so I need it to be capable offroad
3. I would like to run lockers so I can have open on the road and locked for off road
4. I have come up with a design that will allow more travel and would like to complete the package with the locker idea
5. I like to do, or at least think up oddball stuff to do and see if it will work.
EG. a friend and I have come up with a 450 - 500 hp 1.9l VW water cooled motor, that mathamatically will work for 200k Mi.

#11 soobme

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Posted 12 October 2005 - 11:34 AM

EG. a friend and I have come up with a 450 - 500 hp 1.9l VW water cooled motor, that mathamatically will work for 200k Mi.

:lol::lol::lol::lol::lol::lol::lol::lol:
Sorry man, U had me, and I was rollin' with the IMO bad idea right up to THERE. I don't care HOW GOOD the math looks on paper, in the really real world it's poss. to get that much power out of 1.9L, but it takes $$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$ and $$$ and it will NEVER last 200K.
I'm out, PEACE!!

#12 jaws dawg

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Posted 12 October 2005 - 12:13 PM

OK, heres the deal

1.9l TDI bottom end, 2.0l crossflow head, deck the pistons .030". this leaves a 9.5/1 c/r the rabbit turbo diesel exhaust manifold will bolt to the head with no mods I can fit a k04 turbo out of a audi 200 on that manifold. that turbo will make 26 psi of boost. so figuring combustion pressures @ a c/r of 9.5/1 with 24 psi, is equal that of a stock 1.9l TDI, which will go 250K mi.

Rebuttals?:rolleyes:

#13 Scott in Bellingham

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Posted 12 October 2005 - 01:50 PM

if you could get the whole IFS set up out of a toy , maybe one someone has just removed doin a solid axle swap , I would go for it mount the whole thing in there as a unit , then you could have a locker and or locking hubs


SJR

#14 MorganM

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Posted 12 October 2005 - 02:08 PM

Rebuttals?:rolleyes:


Sure; it's all speculation and guessing untill you dyno it. Nobody doubts it would be a hot motor; just don't put numbers on it till you have a graph to prove it.

#15 jaws dawg

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Posted 12 October 2005 - 03:51 PM

Sure; it's all speculation and guessing untill you dyno it. Nobody doubts it would be a hot motor; just don't put numbers on it till you have a graph to prove it.


point taken, however you can get ballpark hp by calculating fuel energy expelled as well as approx output of combustion pressure.

but I digress lets get back on subject THE diff!




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