soobme

That's not an 8.8, it's a Dana 35HP, and it's a tuff little diff. in the front, but with it being an HP diff. I'm not sure how well it would hold up in the rear. U can find 'em in the rear of somthing, Corvets I think, but not sure on that. I might be wrong, but I think the R200 would be a better, and eazyer choise. And U can get an air locker for 'em 2.

A CR of 44 is good with like 30"-33" tires. I have a CR of 66:1 on my 'Burb with 35"s and it's nice! I'm not sure how to compair that to the 44:1 with say 29" or 30" tires, but I know that it's close.

Just thought I should post up in here so people will know how to contact me. I make bumpers, roof racks, and other off-road acssesories for Subarus of the EA81&EA82 style. Phone: (541) 326-9745 E-mail: twbfab@pirate4x4.com Or just PM me;)

That's a bummer man. But U can get studs for cheep @ NAPA. They sell 'em 1@ a time, and U can get the lugs to go with 'em 2. If U know the size/thred pitch U can order full sets w/lugs from Summit Racing.

U will probably have to use Toyota studs, but check one of the lug nuts (Toyota washer style) on the stock Subaru stud to be sure. If the threds match then U will be fine with Subaru studs.

I would take the side that goes from the U-joint to the rack and cut that. Get a pice of heavy wall tube (.250) that will just slide over the 2 parts and use that for your'e extension. Put it in the car, get it all lined up and then tack weld it. Pull it back out and finish weld it. That should give U a verry strong pice that is custom fit to your'e car:)

The SSR's would be THE way to go for your'e needs. They will out last the TSL bias 2:1. And they are alot quieter on the street as well. They work better in the snow and ice too.

The transfercase ratio is 2.02:1 in low, and 1:1 in hi. That's for all the years that use that 'case. It's like a T102 or somthing like that. I found info on it by Googleing "Nissan 720PU"

Dito! And the analog is eazyer to see when direct sunlight hits it.

Yeah, that was a fun day for all!!!! Adam folowed arond my 'Burb NO PROBLEM all day long. 1st time in 5 years I actuly wished for an auto. tranny (for about 1 1/2sec.) That mud was some slick stuff! And my SM465 and 4.10's wer not the ideal set up:-p There is a pic of my 'Burb in the gallery, but I still can't get pics to show up in my posts:banghead: Hey! Thanks Q-man!! PM me about what I'm doing wrong on the pic. thing would ya.

Yup! I use 'em all the time. Don't think of it so much as a batt. charger, but as somthing that will keep your'e batt. from going dead from siting, and they de-sulfate your'e batt. so they will last longer, A LOT longer. U can get 'em @ Horbor friegth for about $18 and some times they go on sale for $11.

I belong to an off road club caled 3 Rivers Offroad, these guys are HARD CORE. And they can't wait for me to get the new roo built, they all want to see what it can do. My wife says "Why can't you build a more manly off-road rig?" but I have an '84 3/4T 'burb with a 6" lift and 35's in the driveway allready:-p so I think she just wants me to give up on the off-road roos. Most of my friends think it's cool, they know I wouldn't wheel 'em if they werent capable.

I had a leak in the exaust right by the trany that kinda sounded like what U are talking about. Don't know if that helps at all.

Anyone still have that diagram that shows how everything should be lined up? I had it 2 or 3 crashes ago, but now I can't find it or my hard copy:banghead: It was just a black and white full front dia. of the timing belsts, ect. and how it should all line up.

Hey Brian, if your'e heads are OK I would just use an SPFI, or carb engine. If U run stock boost, and good gas it should run fine, and make more power all across the board:brow: CARB wouldn't be able to spot that one, and the long block should be eazy to come by. Just my$.02

Subadoom Is the one that I KNOW did this with a Sammy 'case and if I remember right the Dshaft flanges wer all the same. If that is the case then U need the jack shaft from a Nissan P/U , the slip yolk maches the Subaru trans, and flange maces the 'case. I will be seing him today and ask about it for ya and post up when I get home from work. I think the Sammy 'case is a MUCH better choise than the Nissan just for size alone, plus U can get lowere gears for it as well. Just remember, the 'case was made to sit flat in the Sammy and U will be standing it up for the Roo, so there may be some oiling issues to atend to.

I have an EA82 ('91 1.8L) and I have never done the timing belts on one of these before. So I'm gessing that the tensioner is the smooth pully, and the idler is the coged pully just to the inside of the cam pully? If that is the case then I would think it's the idler pully. The back (smooth) side of the belt looks just like new, but the inside (cog) of the belt is riped up somthin'fearce! He put a new tensioner on it when he put the new belt on (Adam NDJ, he knows Subarus very well)

Any one? Can an oil pump sieze? Is the oil pump drive the cog pully on the driver side?

Thinking about it now, I don't think it was a rattle (DUHHHH!!) I'm sure what I was hearing was the timing belt theeth draging/jumping somthing. But it was constant with RPM, not speratic at all.

This is coverd in the USRM (link @ top of fourm) under "10mm hose from hell" or somthing like that. U will need forsepts or somthing simalr to do it. Have FUN:brow: P.S. Ultimate Subaru Repair Manual= USRM

Just get a 14" six lug wheel @ a 'yard and re-drill it. It wouldn't have to be perfect, as it will be your'e spair;)

Just a shot in the dark (I don't know what year/engine U are working on) but if there is no CAS then it would have to get the signal from the dist. Have U checked that yet?

OK, I don't get it!! I got a '91 Loy. wagon that needed a D side timing belt done. So I had Adam put a belt on for me (I had no time) and he put a new tensioner as well, that is what caused it to go. So now I have driven the car for 3 days, and yesterday it tore the D side belt a new one:banghead: It started with a strange rattle type of noise, so I looked under the hood and couldn't find anything wrong. I tryed to drive it home (about a mile away) and made it about 2 blocks before the belt had a ton of teeth chewd off and the engine quit runnin'. There was NO belt squeel, all the gauges wer good, including the oil pressure. Looking at it in the driveway now I can see that the teeth wer riped off the belt. SO wat givess!?!? I have not pulled the belt yet, (havent don anything but look at it so far) but it would seem to me that only the oil pump drive pully (I'm gessing that's what it is) could do this, but I had good oil pressure:-\ Any ideas?

If U do, I would flat tow it with a tow bar. It will do it, just be smart about it. Give your'e self PLENTY of stoping distance, take it eazy on the hills and keep 1 eye on the temp gauge. That engine U have makes good power for an EA81, so that shouldn't be a problem.

I towed my 3600# boat with my '85 wagon:eek: I don't recomend towing that much:drunk: But it haled my little 1300# utility trailer just fine.