soobme

I got the wagon! It's 4WD:drunk: No, really. it's lookin' like I will be building that for off-road after all:rolleyes: Shelly has YET to drive it even once.

U KNOW I'm in Brian! (I'm a sucker for stickers:-p)

It's been my exp. that M/T tires wear just as well as A/T's so long as U keep them rotated, and they will give U 2X the traction off-road. I would go with a 215-75LT15 M/T of some sort my self. The BFG's are nice, but a little spendy IMO, Iv'e had good luck with Marshal Powerguards and Remington Mud Brutes.

COOOOOLL!! Now I know what to shop for next:banana:

My bad! I forgot to mesure:rolleyes: I will do it some time tomorow and post up.

I'm glad U like it! U should have LOTS of fun with that car. Is the can baffle still holding up?

THAT is flex, or travel. Articulation is when the wheel is FORCED down BY the wheel that goes up. On SAS when 1 wheel is forced up it FORCES the wheel on the other side down. THATS articulation.

U are correct!! A+++ Not to many people know the diferance. The only way to get ARTICULATION on a Subaru is to do it the same way Rover has on there IFS/IRS rigs: Air suspention with large X-over lines (Rovers have a computer to controll air flow) so that when 1 wheel is forced up, it forcess the air in that bag to the other side forcing it down. And this makes a BIG diferance in off-road traction.

Look close, that's an air over hydralic bump stop, the shock is the long thing with springs on it;)

Matt (ThreeEyedBandit) has goten pritty good with the Mega Squirt sys., Iv'e seen him run a Justy with a throw on turbo with it, and an ER27 with it and they ran good. Might be time to look into new stand alone fule man. U are good with computers, U tune it with a lap top. I don't know if they would check for that to pass smog or not:-\

I wouldn't worrie about it to much, just don't throw it in 4WD unless U are on low traction surface just to be safe. So long as the size is verry close U shouldn't have any problems.

Go to your'e local "Big-R", "Grange Co-op", or what ever farm/outdoor store U have and get a "Tractor tire pach" They are BIG, thick and will seall up any side wall hole U got;) And yes, run a tube in it. It would be OK on the street 2, just not the HWY (would build up too much heat) If U are looking for the best side wall around, it's tough to beat a biasply TSL!! They are TUFF!!! I'm not sure on tred life on the street thoe, I'm sure someone else can anser that.

OUTSTANDING!!! 26" is a damn good # for IFS 4x4!! I got 19" out of the front of my old Bronco II (but that was all my oun fab work) I retract my 1st stament on that # (U never know when some one is full of $H!t) Who made your'e front shafts? Wer they U-joint inner and outer?

There poll ansers are VERY missleading. When they say "regulated trails" that should read "you guys will have 3 or 4 trails left in the country on public lands that you can drive/ride on leagly";)

I'll take some today and post 'em! I can't beleve no one here has looked into this yet:-\ This would stifen up the front end, AND give us an eazy way to adjust camber.

I was talking about this very subject with a local Subaru only shop owner (been doing it for over 30yrs now) and without hesitation he said " The EA81, and EA71 are 2 of the moste reliable engins EVER BUILT"....."The EJ engines are good and the EA82's are to, but they can't hold a candle to the EA's (81 & 71) I have customers with over 500.000 on the original bottom end and they are still running strong!" I thought that was a good endorcement from a guy in the biz of fixin' these things for 30+ years.

Any one here look into pillow ball upper strut mounts yet? (for the EA82) Would give us an eazy way to adjust camber, not to mention improved handeling:) I'm SURE ther is an app. that would work on our cars, just not sure how to find that out and where to get it:confused:

Is that $69 per wheel? Or for a set?!?

Yup! I have bent/busted 10 or 15 of those "tow hooks" my self. -D- rings, (fixed and screw type) are the ONLY way to go.

Did U check the brake light switch yet?

Nah, YOU won't Brian, just let me know when U want one and I can make it for the lift higth U need;) Sorry, had to hi-jack this one a little:D Have to say, that plate looks good, and I'm sure U will start to cover more apps. as the demand comes along. Don't know about that hole right in front of the sending unit thoe:eek: I know why it's there, but I'm not sure how well that will work out. Button head fasteners would keep ya from hanging up on the rocks ect.

Don't know on that, I'm not so hot with the ECU's and such. Some one else is sure to the awser here.

Any chance U moved the dist. and knocked it out of time when U wer doing the cluch?

What U need is a testing tool that I made a few years ago (after toooo long trying to test stuff like this alone) Get an automotive horn, and 2 lengths of wire (about 20" each) and 2 aligator clips. Put it all together and U have a hands free test horn insted of a test light. Then hook that up to the wires for the fule pump, sit back and turn the key to "start" and see if the horn sounds:) If it does, then U know that the relay is good;)

It will not run all the time, it should run for 1-2sec. when U turn the key on but then it will stop untill the engine fires and then it should run all the time. I just delt with an SPFI EA82 that ran out of gas, just turned the key on and off a few times to get the sys. re-primed and that's all it needed. I would check to make sure that the fule pump is geting power at all.