soobme

That same controller comes with the "Premear Power Welder" The PO might have had one on that truck;)

That makes sence to me. I don't think they could reinforce that big of an opening enough to make it mach the sed. for strength. All the old ralley cars I have seen have been sed. not coupes.

NAPA sells a "push pull" throttle controll that is TRICK! It's a black knob, with a red button in the center, push in on the button and U can pull/push the throttle to where ever U need, or U can turn the knob and it's a screw adjustment to where ever U need it. VERRY COOL! It comes with about 6ft of cable and 2 or 3 different ends U can put on it @ the carb end.

Yeah, I know what U mean about the splater:-\ As for the air comp., I thought EVERYONE knew how to do that by now:rolleyes: U just convert an AC comp. to use for air. Take off the hoses, put a filter on the intake side, put a T fiting on the output side, run 1 line to a standerd compressor switch, put a quick conect on the other line, run a wire from the switch to the + for the comp. and run a switched + wire into the switch. BLAMO! OBA! It is fast enough to run air tools, air up tires, ect.

Wheres the 'SMACK? That alone would add like 40HP and make all the ricers cars pi$$ themselves:lol: Don't take them off Bri., I just wouldn't add any more. U don't want to start lookin' like a groupie. -jk.:-p

Well.... My curent welder runs off of 1, 2, or 3 car batt.s it's caled a "Readywelder" and it's a wire-feed welder. It works GREAT! My old welder was made out of a GM 87A alternator, it was a stick welder, hi freq. and it worked good to. I just prefer the wire-feed. U can find instructions on how to make the alt. style all over the web. Just google "homemade welder" or "onboard welder" there are some places that make them too, "Premiear Power Welder" is 1 (not sure on that spellin':-p) and "Zena" is another. I beleave that "Mobiarc" is the cheepest.

LMAO!!!! That is soooo true:lol:

If U can't get a set together, Hondas used "Ball seat" lugs like that for a while. The wheel studs are a diferent size/pich than the Subaru, but U can change out your'e stock studs for the honda ones and then U can get all the lug nuts U need at any auto part/ tire store.

I have made many a hand thr. in my time:) I like a bike brake lever the best. U can find 'em with a set screw in the front, and U can use that to set the idle if U want. I made little blocks to put in mine that would hold the engine to a certen idle speed when I'm runnin' the compessor or welder.

I have towed Roos with everything from a Chevy Sub. to another Roo. All done with a tow bar, flat towing. I have a special bar that hooks to the stock tie down hooks in the front of EA82's that I like the best. The flat bed idea sounds like a winner to me, just be sure U have a 3000# or more winch on it to pull up the non-runners;)

Cool! Thanks guys! That's all the info I needed on 'em. Now I know that they will not work for what I have in mind:rolleyes:

Uhhhhh........ My '85 Turbo wagon, with big bumpers front and rear, roof rack, 27"s on pug alloys, full size spair on a steelie, ALL my trail gear (winch, hi-lift, tools, ect.), full tank of gas, rack loaded, me and my 2 little boys in it only weighed 3,450# And yes, I know for a FACT that was a corect reading. We have a scale @ work that gets calibrated once a month(to +/- 10#) that my car fits on.

Gen 1 Subaru 4WD's, Datsun 510's, 200sx's and Z-cars, Jag's in the '60's & '70's, '50's & '60's Corvets, ect. But here, just the 1st gen 4WD's

Class 1 /open class trucks don't have THAT much travel in the front, and they are all over $100,000 useing size 30 CV's. I'm sure I read last week that the newest "Truggy" being built had 22" up front, and they(the crew building it) wer THRILED with that much.

COOOOOOOLLLLLL!!!!!! Hopefully that's all that is wrong with mine too.

Soooooo............ Has any one here got U-joint rear axles? Ever had one off?

I did not get a chance to test it today, but after reading this I'm glad I don't have AC:-p I'm wondering if there is a Nissan TPS that would work on our Roos that could be had for cheeper. I know that some of the other Nissan FI parts can interchange:brow:

I'm SURE, I pulled one off just to check it out (I should have pulled the set). This post got me to thinking of doing the same thing to my next trailer so I went to the yard to look for a set. And low and behold U are right! I can't find another set like that:-\ I'm not sure of the year model of the Roo I saw them on, but I know it WAS a Subaru:confused: I will keep looking and if I find a set I will grab 'em!

No, I have not tested yet, but I will in the morning. If I get any out of whack readings I will get one @ the yard ASAP. If that isn't the cure I'll try a new coil. I will post back as soon as I have cured it;) Thanks for the link to the other thred! That info.&PDF file will be VERY handy:clap:

That's what I would think it is just from the way it acts. I figure it never hurts to ask thoe. Any one know if I can take it apart and clean it? Or do I just need to get a new one?

1 tool works better than ANYTHING else I have ever used: AIR SHEERS:D:D:D They leave a clean smooth cut(U can run your'e bear hand acros it and it will not cut ya) they make it EAZY to cut nice smooth round openings, and if U mask out the line U want to cut 1st they will not hurt your'e paint either;)

Looks good! Did U bend that your'e self? If so what did U use to bend it?

I just got my 1st 3dr, and it's my 1st SPFI car. It has a strange problem, it suges @ mid throtle. About 1/3 through 2/3 of the gas pedal it's like I'm fethering the gas a little (some times a lot). It dose not seem to be RPM dependant, just pedal possition dependant. Would this be a TPS? Is there a common cause of this condtion?

Yeah, I'm starting to think that 14's will be the way to go, more selection, and more side wall with a 27" tire too.

Lookin' good buddy!