soobme

Any one here played with nitrous yet:brow: I'm thinking a 40-50HP kit would be a kick in the @$$! Also, any one know how much bigger the hydro head valves are than solid lifter heads?

Cool! Thanks for the info:burnout:

Shweeeeeeeeeeeet!! Nice ride man!

Check all the CV/DOJ boots for age cracks, U don't want one riping while out in the desert. And check the CCV lines on the valve covers for flex/age cracks. It's simple but often over looked, if the Batt. is holding a charge and your'e gona use it check the watter level in it.

So am I right, just back out the 2 bolts that go into the side@ the end of the torsion housing tube and then the spring plate will slide out?

What would the CR be with stock heads? Any one know what the displacment is @ .030 over?

I didn't think about the intake:banghead: I plan to make my oun header for it. Any advice on what size tube to use for the header? I would be shooting for power in the 1500-5000RPM range.

I need to get a little more lift out back, and the stock adjuster is maxed out(I'm gessing a worn out torsion bar) so I want to re-index the spring plates. Should I go up 1 or 2 splines? Do I just back out the 2 bolts in the end of the housing and pull the plate out? Or is there more to it that I'm not seeing?

I'm thinking of building a hot EA81. So I need some info. 1) can the EA81 be stroked at all? If so how much? 2) I'm looking for about 10.5:1 CR, what pistons do I need? And can I mill the heads to get it right where I need it? (I'm not sure what to do about pushrods if I mill the heads) 3)What brand/type of rings do U recomend?

I used Remingten Mud Brutes, 27x8.50-14's, and I LOVED them.

I have wheeled it ALL @ 1 time or another, and I curently have: '95 Suberban w/32's no lift, '84 Burb w/6" lift 35's and a spool up front, '83 GL wagon 4" BYB lift. I will just give a general IMO on this for what it's worth. 1) GEARS! If U want to do the hard stuff gears and a locker/spool will get U farther than any other mod. So if U want to use the Forester for off road, an EA82 5spd D/R would be the ONLY way to go. 2) Ground clearance and body protection, without them U are doomed to get hung up and bash stuff. So U will need bumpers and a lift. 3) Driver exp. U can NEVER have too much;) I think that a well equipt Subaru is JUST as good off road as anything else, save a full on rock buggy. I just traded my "trail rig", an F150 4x4 with 33's, for my '83 wagon (4"BYB) and I know for a fact that I can run all the same stuff with the wagon. U just have to pick the right line and drive it right. Look @ Q-man, he did the Rubicon in a Brat w/4" lift, welded rear, and 27" tires! Lots of people will tell U that there is NO WAY U could TOUCH the Rubicon in any thing less than 35's and locked front and rear:rolleyes:

The "Brown Brat" was "Un-hatched" and the driver is Lumpycam, the limiting straps wer to keep from over extending the rear DOJ's. That car (it WAS a hatch) has the T-case mod and if I remember right was using R180's front and rear. He drove it there and back. I didn't get to go on that run, but I meet up with them here in town when they wer on there way down.

If there are any sharp rocks in the crk. DON'T SPIN THE TIRES! Water works as a lubricant on tires and will let the rocks slice through your'e street tires like butter:eek: If U don't think so, try this: take an old tire and try to cut across the tred with a knife, now take the same tire, and the same knife and put them in water and try it. The knife will go right through the tred, trust me. (don't ask how I know this:rolleyes: )

It will depend on the frame size of your'e CB as well. I like the Uniden 520XL Pro, nice raido with good power and still a VERY small frame size. Much eazyer to mount in a Roo.

U can take it out, pop it open (it has clips, not glued together:) ) and clean all the contact points in it with an eraser, and electrical cleaner. Worked great in my GL10, and saved me the $84.95 NAPA wanted;)

EA81! All the way! No timing belts, no computers. Why do U think they use them in aircraft? Can't just pull to the side of the road and check under the hood when it quits on ya in the air:rolleyes:

Moste impressed!!!:headbang::headbang: That car looks as good as my turbo did! Keep up the good work! PS: can't beleve U got 235-75LT15's to fit!

Torsen's are a little diferent animal all together. Not quite an LSD, not quite a locker. For the moste part they will work like an open diff., BUT with a little brake modulation U can get them to lock up just like a locker(even with 1 tire off the ground) No cluches to wear out or need special lube, and no noises coming from the diff. like a locker. If U make that work PLEASE let us know! I would LOVE to have Torsens front and rear!

Yeah, if it's in that good of shape I'd hang onto it.

Ever listend to a VW Baja? Sounds just like our Subarus! EVER see a Baja with unequal exaust?!?! (I have built 14 of 'em and I havent) It's not the pipes, it's the (muisc of the gods!) boxer tone:cool: I have a flowmaster and res. tip on mine, and I LOVE IT!!!!

Not so hard. Just look at everything VERY good (take pictures if you need to) so you can put it all back together the same way it came apart. Any screws that you turn, count how many times you turn them so you can put them back the way they wer.

:lol::lol::lol::lol: Sorry man, U had me, and I was rollin' with the IMO bad idea right up to THERE. I don't care HOW GOOD the math looks on paper, in the really real world it's poss. to get that much power out of 1.9L, but it takes $$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$ and $$$ and it will NEVER last 200K. I'm out, PEACE!!

Only way to get one is aftermarket. Have one made my some one like me, or buy ready made from AA or some of the other places.

Geting a "Turning Brake" set and installing it would work even better. It gets plumbed into the hyd. brake sys. so it has more holding power with less efort;) U can get 'em from any buggy suply house for around $75.

Just get a rear axle from an '81 4WD Toyota PU (came stock with 3.90 gears) and cut the housing off just outside of the 3rd member on each side. Weld in plates w/bearing cariers in 'em and have some stub axles made with the Toy inner splines, and the Sube outer splines. Then U dont have to flip anthing and have to worie about oiling issues, and U get the right gears with it. U can get lockers, LSD's, ect. for the early ones too (it's still a Toy 8")