8 replies to this topic

[Sweden]

A few years back I posted about my temp gauge not working properly. The needle stays off the peg (after the car has warmed up), but only moves up to the 'C'. I get plently of heat so I assume it is coming up to temp. I started out by replacing the thermostat; no change. I next replaced the temp sender; no change. The local mechanic here checked out the wiring; everything seemed o.k. (I assume proper voltage). I read somewhere along the line on this site that gauges had a tendency to go bad. I ordered one a few weeks back ($30) and installed it yesterday. NO CHANGE!

What am I missing here? What's left to replace? It seems that the system is working, even to the point where my mechanic told me to forget trying to determine what's wrong. It is just that the gauge functions around the C instead of in the middle.

One thing that I must add is that replacing the gauge was a lot easier than I had been (negatively) anticipating over the past 2+ years...

Sweden

[nipper]

Try the obvious, the gauge itself. The gauge can be repalced without replacing the entire dashbaord. It comes apart real easily, just getting to it is a joy.



nipper

[Sweden]

Did that; no change. That's why I'm stumped...


sweden

[nipper]

First thing first ... go out and buy a inexpensive electrical aftermarket engine temp gauge and wire it in. See if that gauge matches what your seeing, if it is we have to start looking someplace else.

Do you have good or poor heat?

nipper

[frag]

The only thing I can see apart from your new sender or gauge being bad, is that you replaced the temp coolant sensor (connected to the ECU) instead of the temp sender. Is that possible? The coolant sensor has two wires connected to it and the sender only one I think.
Just an idea.

[Cougar]

Frag makes a good point. You may have replaced the wrong sensor. Are you sure you replaced the correct one? The correct sensor has only one lead to it. The temperature sensor for the ECU has two leads.

You should be able to measure the resistance of the sensor when the engine is at operating temperature. Remove the lead to the sensor before you take the reading. Tell us what you get for a reading and we should be able to tell you if that is correct.

If the sensor is ok and you already replaced the gauge then the problem would seem it would have to be with the power too the gauge. I would check the voltage to the input power side of the gauge, it may be low.

[Sweden]

To tell you the truth, I don't remember which one I replaced. I actually bought the sensor in the U.S. (I think itiwas about $7) and had the mechanic here in Sweden change it when the car was in for a factory recall. That was about three-plus years ago. I want to say that it was the sensor that sits right under the alternator (if that helps at all). In any case I can check the voltage.


Thanks, Sweden

[Cougar]

If the sensor has one lead to it then it should be the correct one. One way to prove it is to disconnect the lead and look at the gauge. I think it will show cold if the wire is disconnected.

A resistance reading will be of more help than a voltage reading while the engine is a normal temperature. Usually the manuals show a resistance specification for the sensor.

[frag]

To tell you the truth, I don't remember which one I replaced. I actually bought the sensor in the U.S. (I think itiwas about $7) and had the mechanic here in Sweden change it when the car was in for a factory recall. That was about three-plus years ago. I want to say that it was the sensor that sits right under the alternator (if that helps at all). In any case I can check the voltage.

Thanks, Sweden

You might have put your finger right on the problem. The sender that's right under the alternator is the oil pressure sender.
I just hope i'm getting a good understanding of what you're writing.
Good luck!