Jump to content


Welcome to Ultimate Subaru Message Board, my lurker friend!

Welcome to Ultimate Subaru Message Board, an unparalleled Subaru community full of the greatest Subaru gurus and modders on the planet! We offer technical information and discussion about all things Subaru, the best and most popular all wheel drive vehicles ever created.

We offer all this information for free to everyone, even lurkers like you! All we ask in return is that you sign up and give back some of what you get out - without our awesome registered users none of this would be possible! Plus, you get way more great stuff as a member! Lurk to lose, participate to WIN*!
  • Say hello and join the conversation
  • Subscribe to topics and forums to get automatic updates
  • Get your own profile and make new friends
  • Classifieds with all sorts of Subaru goodies
  • Photo hosting in our gallery
  • Meet other cool people with cool cars
Seriously, what are you waiting for? Make your life more fulfilling and join today! You and your Subaru won't regret it, we guarantee** it.

* The joy of participation and being generally awesome constitutes winning
** Not an actual guarantee, but seriously, you probably won't regret it!

Serving the Subaru Community since May 18th, 1998!

Guest Message by DevFuse
 

Photo
- - - - -

temp gauge revisited


  • Please log in to reply
8 replies to this topic

#1 Sweden

Sweden

    USMB Regular

  • Members
  • PipPipPip
  • 98 posts
  • Lund, Sweden

Posted 31 October 2005 - 02:21 AM

A few years back I posted about my temp gauge not working properly. The needle stays off the peg (after the car has warmed up), but only moves up to the 'C'. I get plently of heat so I assume it is coming up to temp. I started out by replacing the thermostat; no change. I next replaced the temp sender; no change. The local mechanic here checked out the wiring; everything seemed o.k. (I assume proper voltage). I read somewhere along the line on this site that gauges had a tendency to go bad. I ordered one a few weeks back ($30) and installed it yesterday. NO CHANGE!

What am I missing here? What's left to replace? It seems that the system is working, even to the point where my mechanic told me to forget trying to determine what's wrong. It is just that the gauge functions around the C instead of in the middle.

One thing that I must add is that replacing the gauge was a lot easier than I had been (negatively) anticipating over the past 2+ years...

Sweden

#2 nipper

nipper

    Semi Elite Master of the

  • Members
  • 17,607 posts
  • Long Island NY

Posted 31 October 2005 - 07:11 AM

Try the obvious, the gauge itself. The gauge can be repalced without replacing the entire dashbaord. It comes apart real easily, just getting to it is a joy.



nipper

#3 Sweden

Sweden

    USMB Regular

  • Members
  • PipPipPip
  • 98 posts
  • Lund, Sweden

Posted 31 October 2005 - 07:19 AM

Did that; no change. That's why I'm stumped...


sweden

#4 nipper

nipper

    Semi Elite Master of the

  • Members
  • 17,607 posts
  • Long Island NY

Posted 31 October 2005 - 07:32 AM

First thing first ... go out and buy a inexpensive electrical aftermarket engine temp gauge and wire it in. See if that gauge matches what your seeing, if it is we have to start looking someplace else.

Do you have good or poor heat?

nipper

#5 frag

frag

    Soob shade tree mechanic

  • Members
  • 1,777 posts
  • Montréal, Québec, Can.

Posted 31 October 2005 - 10:41 AM

The only thing I can see apart from your new sender or gauge being bad, is that you replaced the temp coolant sensor (connected to the ECU) instead of the temp sender. Is that possible? The coolant sensor has two wires connected to it and the sender only one I think.
Just an idea.

#6 Cougar

Cougar

    Elite Master of the Subaru

  • Members
  • 6,340 posts
  • Anchorage

Posted 31 October 2005 - 03:50 PM

Frag makes a good point. You may have replaced the wrong sensor. Are you sure you replaced the correct one? The correct sensor has only one lead to it. The temperature sensor for the ECU has two leads.

You should be able to measure the resistance of the sensor when the engine is at operating temperature. Remove the lead to the sensor before you take the reading. Tell us what you get for a reading and we should be able to tell you if that is correct.

If the sensor is ok and you already replaced the gauge then the problem would seem it would have to be with the power too the gauge. I would check the voltage to the input power side of the gauge, it may be low.

#7 Sweden

Sweden

    USMB Regular

  • Members
  • PipPipPip
  • 98 posts
  • Lund, Sweden

Posted 01 November 2005 - 02:08 AM

To tell you the truth, I don't remember which one I replaced. I actually bought the sensor in the U.S. (I think itiwas about $7) and had the mechanic here in Sweden change it when the car was in for a factory recall. That was about three-plus years ago. I want to say that it was the sensor that sits right under the alternator (if that helps at all). In any case I can check the voltage.


Thanks, Sweden

#8 Cougar

Cougar

    Elite Master of the Subaru

  • Members
  • 6,340 posts
  • Anchorage

Posted 01 November 2005 - 04:20 AM

If the sensor has one lead to it then it should be the correct one. One way to prove it is to disconnect the lead and look at the gauge. I think it will show cold if the wire is disconnected.

A resistance reading will be of more help than a voltage reading while the engine is a normal temperature. Usually the manuals show a resistance specification for the sensor.

#9 frag

frag

    Soob shade tree mechanic

  • Members
  • 1,777 posts
  • Montréal, Québec, Can.

Posted 01 November 2005 - 09:13 AM

To tell you the truth, I don't remember which one I replaced. I actually bought the sensor in the U.S. (I think itiwas about $7) and had the mechanic here in Sweden change it when the car was in for a factory recall. That was about three-plus years ago. I want to say that it was the sensor that sits right under the alternator (if that helps at all). In any case I can check the voltage.

Thanks, Sweden


You might have put your finger right on the problem. The sender that's right under the alternator is the oil pressure sender.
I just hope i'm getting a good understanding of what you're writing.
Good luck!




0 user(s) are reading this topic

0 members, 0 guests, 0 anonymous users