idosubaru Posted November 23, 2005 Share Posted November 23, 2005 I have a new EA82 block. This is a brand new block with zero miles on it. I'll be building an NA EA82 with the 9.5:1 or whatever they are XT6 pistons. I have the pistons, rods and rod bearings. I shouldn't use used bearings right? What is a good source for main bearings and rings? Are aftermarket rings okay...those Topline kits you see on ebay for instance? Will it need honing...i guess i can just look to see if it has crosshatching already? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ross Posted November 23, 2005 Share Posted November 23, 2005 Definitley new bearings, they are cheap as dirt anyway. Any parts store/dealer will have them, make sure they are of a known brand. Never heard of topline, so i dont know. It has probably been honed, but yeah, have a look. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Subarian Posted November 23, 2005 Share Posted November 23, 2005 I agree, definitely new bearings. Just out of curiosity, where did you get a new block? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
idosubaru Posted November 23, 2005 Author Share Posted November 23, 2005 bought an EA82 from a guy and he had a brand new shiny block sitting there and asked if i wanted that too. sure, why not? if the crank spec's fine and the block is new, then standard sized bearings should be fine to use. piston rings? anyone ever use those gapless rings on the EA82? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
idosubaru Posted November 24, 2005 Author Share Posted November 24, 2005 arch emailed awhile ago and mentioned "thrust washers" are needed for a complete rebuild. what are those? would i need them? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ross Posted November 24, 2005 Share Posted November 24, 2005 Studies were done in the '70s and '80s that showed that compression/performance of an engine does not suffer with ring gap sizes of at least 3mm!! Bearing that in mind, gapless rings seem somewhat unnecessary for standard applications. They don't have thrust washers, the center main bearing shell has a thrust bearing face on it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
subyrally Posted November 24, 2005 Share Posted November 24, 2005 there is a company that does rings, i think they are actually name gapless rings, but i hear that the no gap rings are actuall a waste of money, they apperently wear out faster than a standard piston ring. the same company makes regualr rings that are of very high quality and used a lot in racing from what i hear. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
idosubaru Posted November 24, 2005 Author Share Posted November 24, 2005 cool, standard rings it is and new main bearings as well. thanks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MudisFun Posted November 24, 2005 Share Posted November 24, 2005 This supplier is great for oem parts www.thepartsbin.com main bearing set from japan for $30! I have never had to buy bearings for any subaru rebuild so far. Run them hard until you see copper!!!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
idosubaru Posted November 24, 2005 Author Share Posted November 24, 2005 This supplier is great for oem parts www.thepartsbin.com main bearing set from japan for $30! I have never had to buy bearings for any subaru rebuild so far. Run them hard until you see copper!!!!! i like them as well, i buy most of my parts from them and was planning on the bearings from them as well. thanks! buy never needing bearings, do you actually check them somehow? you reuse them? for $30 i'll just buy them, but curious about rebuilds since this will be my first. thanks all this should be funning learning... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ross Posted November 24, 2005 Share Posted November 24, 2005 You can check them using plastigauge - a tiny string of plastic that you put between the journal and bearing then torque it up - you can then compare how much the plastic is squashed with a scale on the packet to find the actual clearance. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BoostedBalls Posted November 25, 2005 Share Posted November 25, 2005 If you run stock cast iron rings, use a 300 grit finish stone on the cylinders, 500 grit for moly rings. I would bring the ring gap to around .008" on a n/a and .015" on a turbo engine or one in a hot environment. Check ring gaps with the ring at .5" from the deck, center, and .5" from the bottom of the bore. Thrust 'washers' are untigrated into the main bearings. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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