BoostedBalls

Hello everyone! I haven't posted in a while as my car has been sitting for a couple years. Now the car is for sale and I would like to fix a couple of minor issues first. The large triangular trim pieces behind the rear doors have broken clips and I'm not sure where to find replacements. any ideas? Black 1991 Legacy SS. 190k on stock closed deck long block, AEM FIC, VF39 turbo, pink STi injectors, full stainless exhaust, STi struts and springs, black WRX seats, water to air intercooler, wet NOS system, H2O injection. Alloy wheels. Fast, fun and reliable. Located in Sacramento, CA

My 2011 Legacy 2.5i suspension has been squishy since new. I had a 2013 Legacy and the suspension was nice and crisp and stable. My question is- what models/years can interchange with the 2011 Legacy? Not about to spend a grand on my DD suspension. I upgraded my 1991 Legacy turbo with 2004 STi suspension and it is awesome. Does the same concept apply with the newer generations??? How about the seats? I upgraded the 91 Leg to 2004 WRX seats. I've been out of the game too long. What will fit my 2011 Legacy??? The stock beige seats stain if you spill water on them, even when new. I have shampooed them many times and they seem to stain while drying. WTF? There must be some under layer that is bleeding through to the top.

I pulled the rubber boots back and wiped the sliders. I didn't lube them though.

You called it! The pads I took of were worn unevenly and there was no cushion on the back of the pads. The parts store gave me the wrong pads so I had to reinstall one side. I smeared a little hi-temp RTV on the back of the old pads and that made the noise go away on that side. Now I have some ceramic pads in there. It's funny though because this is my first encounter with ceramic pads and they were not hard like I was expecting. The friction material was actually soft. Soft enough that I could scrape quite a bit of it off with my fingernail! I wonder if the heat makes them cure or something. ??? The braking seems fine. There is still some jingling sound coming from the front and I'll bet it's the exhaust shrouds. I'll tack weld the seams together and see how that goes.

Hmm, could be brake pads, her "brake" light does come on from time to time...

Well, the more I drive it, the more I'm thinking it's the exhaust shields. It really sounds like very thin metal jingling around. I'll try welding the exhaust shields or remove them and see how that works out. The clamps are bottomed out tight already. I also noticed that it sounds and feels like the exhaust hitting the underside of the car when I first start the engine. Engine mounts? The trans mount is new.

My wife's legacy GT has 200k miles and the front struts or calipers seem to be making some jingling noise when I go over slight bumps in the road. The struts perform beautifully and the car handles great. The issue seems to lessen slightly when I am braking. The sound is coming from the front end. Struts? Calipers? What? It sounds just like a tambourine, no kidding... Her exhaust heat shields make noise but I don't think they are making this noise.

With the car on the ground- Have someone hold the brake pedal down, HARD. Then use a long pipe or something over the breaker bar(at least 4 feet). The threads are normal, not reverse. Turn the nut counterclockwise to loosen it. Having someone hold the brake pedal down keeps all of that torque from seeing the cv's, trans and differential.

I guess I'm hijacking this thread, sorry. Hopefully this will be usefull to someone in the future... I found a single black connector under the dash but I don't see the other end to plug into. The code-pulling procedure is useless without the connectors being plugged in. I have the dealorship installed remote door lock unit crowding up a lot of space under there also.

Is there a schematic for the wiring harness of the 97 4EAT somewhere on here? I think the "mechanic" screwed up the wiring when he did the head gaskets. Now the car has torque bind big time. I get 16 flashes. The AWD fuse does nothing and GM limited slip additive does nothing. I doubt it's a coincidence that torque bind showed up when we got the car back from them. I inspected the wire harness and it seems fine. I guess I can pull the rear section of the driveshaft, but that's just lame. I gotta do something, the roads are drying up and this car drives like crap now.

Sadly, it sounds like the rings in that cylinder are shot. Now, the compression only seems a little low in that cylinder, the oil in that cylinder is most likely giving you a higher than actual reading just because the oil is helping to seal the gap or crack or whatever the case is. You need to get a "leak-down tester", the standard compression test is not going to help you much here. Check out this link: http://vmaxoutlaw.com/tech/leakdown_tester.htm keep us updated!

I'll be there this time! (unless my car does not make it back from Bonneville Speed Week earlier in August.

The AT Temp light does blink when I first start the car! Maybe I have a bad connection somewhere. The engine was pulled a while back for head gaskets by some shop. I'll have to look over the wiring and hopefully I can come up with something. The speedo needle looks steady.

My wife's 97 Legacy GT 4EAT seemed to develop torque bind overnight. I put the fuse in expecting to get rid of the torque bind and run 2wd until I can fix the real issue. Well, I put a fuse in and it is still in 4wd. The fuse isn't blown. I also have CEL codes for: Throttle position sensor, knock sensor, misfire in #1,2 & 4. I wonder what is really going on here. any thoughts? I'm gunna change the spark plugs and check the TPS for resistance and maybe replace the knock sensor with one I have laying around.

That RR bearing seems like a problem to me, especially if you have aluminum wheels. They will pull the heat out faster than steels. BTW- the driveshaft will ALWAYS spin if the car is in motion. Regardless of the fuse for the transmission. It is directly connected to the spider gears in the rear diff and then to the tires. You could remove the driveshaft and clock it 90 degrees out from original to see if the noise and vibration changes. my $1 is on the wheel bearing though.

I would feel the hubs in the rear after a good highway blast. Try to coast to a stop, using the brakes as little as possible. Then if one hub is warmer than the other, I would tear into it. Stupid car dealerships like to pressure wash cars to make them look newer. In some cases, they blow water past the seals in wheel bearings, ball joints, etc; this eats the parts from the inside out. If you don't feel any difference in temperature, I would replace the carrier bearing and replace the gear oil in the rear. If the gear oil is nasty, I would use something synthetic and maybe a little thicker than recommended. Stick with LSD oil if so equipped.

looks just like mine at the start of my troubleshooting. I even gapped my new ones to around .030" just to make sure I had enough voltage to light them off. Also dropped coin on plug wires. No joy for me; I'm glad it solved your issue. Don't forget the antiseize. It sucks to pull the threads out of an otherwise good head.

That sounds like the same thing I had for sure. I'll bet your shielded wire is toast! And yes, the shielded wire has to be there. The Knock sensor is nothing more than a microphone that creates VERY small voltages that the ecm sees as knock. The shield helps to shunt the other small voltages in the engine bay (ignition, etc) from being induced on the center condictor of the wire. There's lits of stray voltage in an engine compartment. I would run a new shielded wire to ecm, or at least close enough to it that you can get rid of the toasty wire. The shield must be complete from the sensor connection to the ecm. If your wire got toasty enough to crack or melt the insulation between the center conductor and the shield, it would ground out the signal and your ecm will pull timing. Radio shack will have the right shielded wire for you.

great! Just don't put the engine under load with kerosine in it. (unless you want to clean your bearings out also, piece by piece)

There is also a plug on the top of the radiator on the passenger side that can allow you to fill the system better.

Pressure bleeding is the way to go. I usually do the farthest slave cylinder first and the nearest last. As far a checking the condition of the master cylinder- just depress the peddle to 3/4 travel with the engine off. If you feel the pedal gradually sink further with the same leg force, the M/C is bad. If it stays put, it's probably air in the system.

my vote goes for bad CV, eventhough it was replaced. There's lots of crappy "rebuilt" units being sold for these cars. if the problem only happens while the wheels are spinning, yeah CV. If the problem happens even if the wheels aren't turning, I would do a good inspection on the ball joints and such. Since it was crashed, you could have some geometry off which could put a ball joint into a binding situation. If you still think it's the power steering pump- pull the belt off and drive around and see if the problem is still there. Don't worry, the water pump is still pumping because it's attached to the timing belt.

I just solved the very same symptoms on my 91SS. I replaced a ton of parts only to go back and double check what I had done initially. My knock sensor wiring was the culprit. The block was kinda nasty under the knock sensor and I think I wasn't getting a very good ground. THIS DID NOT THROW A CEL. As soon as I got a good ground on the knock sensor, the thing runs like a beast. I ended up moving my knock sensor closer to the trans and I have yet to hear any pinging. Boost comes on strong and stays there now. In retrospect, I could have just attached a ground wire under the bolt that holds the sensor down and ground it in that tapped hole in the block near the trans. use 5/16 ring terminals. you already replaced the knock sensor? If you are positive that the connection is perfect, you could run some seafoam through the wastegate solenoid to see if it makes a difference but I doubt it will. It also sounds like the car could use a good visual inspection since a retard owned it previously. I would take the fuel pump out and make sure the hoses are tight and the wiring is safe. Bad you don't want to be driving a bomb right? A bad connection above the fuel line could be The Walbro GS341 and GS342 are the common upgrades. Lets hope you have the GS342; it is built a bit beefier.

Yeah, if you get pulled over for speeding, I wouldn't recommend telling the cop that you were speeding because of your meth injector.

Fram and Penzoil???? !!!!!! Are you trying to kill the poor thing? Please get some quality oil in there (especially in AZ!) If you are on the cheap, at least get some Valvoline or Castol. Then run some lucas oil or seafoam in the fuel. Check for vacuum leaks with a can of starting fluid or carb cleaner. IF you don't find any, try lubing the IAC valve.. keep us posted...