BoostedBalls

I just got off the phone with Delta Cams. They are gunna send me some stainless washers to drop in there. He said that people also use dimes. You gotta be kidding me I said. "no, we do it in race engines all the time" he said. I'm not about to stick no stinking coins with rough edges in my engine. I can imagine what the lifter bores look like after 10k miles with coins chewing away at them. I'm torqued. Looks like I get to tear back into it! Thanks Delta for not telling about this at the time of purchase so I would only have to do this once!

That really blows, I specifically told them that I want the highest lift WITHOUT modifying the other parts in the valvetrain. I'll give them a call and see what's up; maybe they can grind my extra set of cams with a grind that doesn't require any silly business. Thanks for the info!

Oh Crap! I got the Detla stage 3 cam grind on my ea-82t. I said that I want to go maximum without modifying the valvetrain. I did notice that when I installed the cams that the rockers were WAY loose. I posted this on here but I didn't get much feedback. And I never heard of using shims. This sucks, I just dropped the engine in the car last night, I don't want to have to tear it apart again. I need more info on these shims! Please help! -Chuck

Ok, OK, but the real question here is: Where is the duty solenoid C? I got some serious bind in my 93 Legacy. I'll go as far as drop the valve body but deeper into the system is no man's land for me. Besides, I realized a while back while watching my wife (she's from Asia and never drove a car until a couple years ago) back out of the driveway that she has been hitting the gas in drive before the transmission has time to 'grab'. This results in a nice jerking action and me standing there with an "oh crap I'm gunna be replacing that transmission soon" look on my face. She stopped doing it after I schooled her a bit but I got a call from her today stating that the engine revvs up while she's cruising at a constant speed. This thing has almost 200k on it and doesn't leak. I'll check the fluid level but I think it's time for a replacement anyway. A lot of guys on the group complain that their wives don't know how to drive a stick, well, mine can't even drive an auto!

So my RX has been sitting with bad head gaskets and/or cracked heads for months as I worked on my various other toys. Now, just about every toy I own (except the jetski) has a broken engine. Yeah, Mom always said I'm too hard on my toys... So I tore the old engine out and I steam cleaned the engine bay. I hate working on greasy cars. I dropped the new engine in but I haven't had a chance to hook it all up yet, it got dark and my work week started. Sunday it's wrenching time again though. Here's the scoop on the new engine: Ported heads, stage 3 cam grind, garrett T3 .60 compressor and .48 exhaust (also going to try a .63exh), 2" stainless header I made a while back (it dropped right in bolted to the engine and there's no clearance issues!), External wastegate, 2.5" stainless down pipe, XT6 flywheel and pressure plate. It's also getting the aluminum water-to-air intercooler I made ages ago, hope it fits! It's also getting water/alky injection at the throttlebody and 2 extra injectors to fuel this bad rider up to 20psi or more. I have a ported spider intake for it but I'm setting it up with a GM throttlebody and sensors to work with megasquirt. For now I'll just use the crappy intake. I just need to get this sucker back on the track like right now before racing season is over. I'll finger out the megasquirt stuff this winter for more power in spring time. Who has an AWD dyno in the portland, OR area that is reasonable? -Chuck

what part is 2" and what part is 2.25"? If you are going from an exhaust port to a larger pipe, you don't need anything fancy. The step will actually help air flow in some cases. Going from a larger port to a smaller header pipe- yeah, you will need a gentle step of some sort. I would just drill out the center with a 2" holesaw and then chamfer one side with a carbide bit. That's what I do and it works.

Just take 4 self-drilling screws of the right size and go for the gold. You did get the little hoop brackets with the rubber in them right? They sell them at a lot of auto part stores anyway.

My ea82t ran a consistant 14.20 in the 1/4 with all stock engine, turbo, heads and cam. I'll see what she can do with the stage 3 cams, T3 turbo and 2" header, and spider intake and custom water-to-air intercooler in a couple months.

You don't need a turbo timer, it's like a band-aid for not having a heat exchanger to cool the water off on it's way to the turbo bearing housing. If you had a good heat exchanger inline (JY trans cooler from Ford van or something), your turbo will already be cool by the time you find a parking spot and shut the engine down. This will also increase the life of your turbo while you are driving, a timer can't do that...

I hope you have an extra engine ready to drop in! Put in an intercooler and run stock boost= more power and longevity. Cranking up the boost this time of year on a non-intercooled turbo engine??? WHY??? The intercooler is the HEART of the turbocharged engine!!! Think pressure DENSITY rather than just PRESSURE. Density is what makes power. The intercooler will give you that. I have run the ea-83T over 20 si plenty of times but never without an intercooler.

Could be HG or intake gasket or crack in exhaust port. Spark plus should give the best clue. If one is water damaged or way cleaner than the others, that would rule out exhaust port crack. You can make a ghetto coolant plumbing pressure tester out of a rubber stopper, one way valve, hose T, vacuum/boost gauge, and a small bicycle pump. drill a hole through the stopper and insert the hose T with a little superglue or something. Put the stopper in place of the radiator cap real tight. The one-way valve goes on the pump so the pressure won't bleed out of the pump when you stop pumping. Pump that sucker up to about 20psi and listen for a leak. Make sure you have the plugs out so you can listen in the chambers with a small vacuum hose inside and up to your ear. This sounds crazy but it really works.

Shoot the sister. Or if it's illegal in your state- make her carry your tool bag (loaded with everything you might need) around the wrecking yard while you search for interior parts. Then have her remove the parts you need and pay for them and hand you tools while you install them in your car. Maybe I'm a little harsh with my sister- she used to kck my rump roast when I was younger though.

Here's how I mounted a ford thunderbird intercooler. It was a snap, I even used the spare tire rod to mount the intercooler. I ran a 14.22 at 93mph with this setup in a locked 4wd GL-10 4 door. I eventually moved the BOV to the intercooler, it worked much better that way. I have since gone to a water intercooler and I have an even larger water intercooler ready to go in as well.

I think it has something to do with rocket packs.

The injectors that I have are: turbo xt- red turbo rx- red non-turbo xt- gray

Wife's Legacy- After having the transmission pulled out and put back in. I grab the second large jug of ATF that I drained out of it earlier and commence to pour it down the dipstick tube, using one of those really long black funnels. Glug glug glug, oh crap, I grabbed the wrong jug, that's the old motor oil jug! Doh! And it was very sludgy oil at that!

I just cut out that silly plastic baffle in the fender area, I don't do much mudding though. You do want the cold air more than anything. It would be even better to use a ram air setup beside the radiator, I think that's what I'm gunna do on my megasquirt setup on my RX.

Cutting out the bottom should give you a little more power but it will be noisier, your filter will need to be changed/cleaned more often. If you have a K&N keep in mind that they flow like crap when they get a little water on them, even worse than a damp paper one!

There is a universal water pump spacer thing on many GM pickups, I've also used the washer idea on a chevy engine and it worked fine, just so long as it isn't wobbly when the engine is running. The wiring harness is probably the same for all MPFI engines and I bet the wire for the knock sensor is hidden in the plastic somewhere. GM did some silly things like that for automaic and manual cars. Not sure why the turbo inducer pipe isn't lining up...

I don't see the need to ground the radiator, you have a fan switch that doesn't need a ground and I think that's it. The connectors on the fan suck! You gotta clean them up good so you can see the tab that has to be pushed in. I would cut that sucker out and just hard wire it, less chance of corrosion anyway.

just make sure to use a bottle brush and plenty of brake cleaner before trying to lock a stud in the hole. I would personally use JB weld, you know it will stay, probably forever. You can warm up the JB and it will flow into all the cracks and allow the air to escape past the threads when you screw it into the block

The wastegate duty solenoid is mounted to the passenger fender, at least it is in my 87 RX.

F.A.S.T.- fuel, air, spark, timing. It sounds like there is plenty of spark because you were able to time it. Did you try dumping a tablespoon or so of gas down the throttlebody? Oil pressure, it should start without oil pressure. The scraping concerns me though. Did it do this before? What maintenance has been done on it most recently? Does the scraping come from the starter or another part of the engine? Is the engine cranking fast enough to start if everything else was ok? What I would do- Find out where the scraping is coming from, front of engine, rear, starter, whatever. Make sure it has enough oil; take some starting fluid and spray a little in the throttlebody. Crank the engine and watch the oil pressure gauge. You should get the gauge to move even if it doesn't start. We need a little more info to help you get this thing back on the road.

Everything is fully interchangable. You can swap disk, plate, throw-out, and flywheel. The XT6 flywheel is identicle but it has more material machined off of it. SubaruStyles made an XT6 flywheel from a regular ea82 flywheel.

The XT6 has a stronger pressure plate and the flywheel is lighter also. The stock clutch holds up pretty well, I got to the 60' mark in 1.94 seconds with a stock clutch. I've upgraded to an XT6 flywheel and pressure plate, but my car is strictly racing.