BoostedBalls

If your bushings are worn, you will have slpooy shifting. ACE hardware has a selection of metric bronze ones that work way better than the nylon crap ones that the car came with. Your shifting will be much tighter, but it may transmit more vibration to your hand. I always replace bushings with bronze. They just need a little grease and they are good to go and will outlast the plastic crap. I'm even gunna try making some half-shell bronze bushings for my anti sway bars, that should work better than rubber or urethane.

These cars should have came with intercoolers! I wouldn't crank up the boost on it without installing an intercooler first. Your engine will love you for it. The stock fuel system starts to go lean around 15 or 16 psi under heavy load. I have a 5th injector that comes on at 12psi, it's a little early but better early than late.

If your battery is dead it will draw maximum current from the alt and that sucker will get warm. If you hear bearing noise from it- take off the belt and feel for slop in turning and push/pulling on the pully. It should have a nice feel to it with no grinding or squeeking. If you are short on cash, and the alt is still cranking out good power- take some electrical lubricant in the spray can and soak the bearings, this may buy you some time. I have a couple of these that I would let go for $20 + shipping. OR- go with the GM alternator like me!

With the headliner down, take a can of rubberized undercoating (paintable kind is better) and let her have it. That stuff works wonders. I use it on door inners when I have the door panels off. The roofs are noisy, try taking it throught the car wash and when the blowers go over the roof- it's like thunder. The only thing worse is my chevy astro van.

Yes, I had to replace the front axle assembly in my Jeep after that jump and the second Jeep video is one I took on the way to the dealer to trade it in! Haha, I still see it driving around from time to time, I wish I could show the new owner these vids! The V8 muscle car one was against a small block Nova if memory serves me right. You can't really see what's going in in the rally cross vid but you can see what the XT6 swaybars did for me. Looks like hardly any body roll, a lot of it is the low tire pressure too. ENJOY! http://rapidshare.de/files/6705016/RX_drag_muscle_car.wmv.html Up against V8 http://rapidshare.de/files/6681037/14.33_87RX.wmv.html RX drag video http://rapidshare.de/files/6681145/RX_at_nite_compressed.wmv.html RX night race http://rapidshare.de/files/6705511/RX_night_drag_bad_reaction_time.wmv.html Racing myself with bad reaction time http://rapidshare.de/files/6702816/QVC.asx.html Awesome QVC footage http://rapidshare.de/files/6681419/Dune_Buggy.wmv.html Turbocharged Manx http://rapidshare.de/files/6679792/jump.WMV.html Jumping my Jeep. http://rapidshare.de/files/6680021/Jeep_burnout.MPG.html Jeep burn-out

I don't really watch the tach when I shift, I just wait for what feels like the end of the power band, it's probably around 6500. I would have shifted into second much quicker like I did the 2-3 shift but something was slipping. A friend of mine said the front wheels made a little smoke leaving the line but I had it locked in 4wd??? My trap speed was 93. Did you notice the cut-out that happened twice at the end of the track? Not sure what that was but megasquirt should fix it! I'll see about posting the other hi-res videos on that site. Thanks!!!

Oil is oil, yes, but remember- Friends don't let friends use hi-paraffin oils, Penzoil, Quaker State, etc. They do a real crappy job of de-waxing the oil in the refining process leaving lots of wax in the oil. This turns into a pretty glossy, cool-looking greasy sludge on your precious engine components. Valvoline, Castol, Havoline, etc are good choices for conventional motor oil. Increasing the viscosity of oil is likely to increase oil pressure, engine heat; and reduce blowby, leaks. If your engine oil pressure is low at operating temp- increase the viscosity. Viscosity= resistance= heat. The manufactures recommend a certain viscosity for their engines; this is for an engine with tight tolereances, many of our engines (ok, most) have a crap-load of miles on them and the factory tolerances are no longer valid. We must step up in oil viscosity to "fill the larger gap". Let your oil consumption and oil pressure be the judge. Oil changes, synthetic or regular- Synthetic is supposedly better at lubricating metal parts but not as good at lubricating flexible parts like seals. People say there are more oil leaks with synthetics but lower operating temperatures. 7000 mile oil change? Recipe for disaster, change it when the oil strats to get dark, not black. The filter should be changed before you hit the 3000 mile mark no matter what oil you are using. No since in pumping $6/qt Mobile One through your engine if it is carrying chunks of crap with it.

I think it would be way cool to have a small brass vlave plumbed between the oil pressure port to the header. Just a quick turn of the valve and poosh! Smoke screen, eat your heart out James Bond! My uncle rebuilt his 350 in his truck once and while the engine was out and my uncle was not looking- I poured a little oil down the exhaust pipes where the exhaust manifolds hook up. Jeez man! I had no idea how much smoke it would actually make! I had him beliving that he forgot to install rings in one of the pistons! haha! It took a week to burn completely! I've never seen so much smoke from a car that wasn't on fire!

Hook a gauge up to it right at the sender just to make sure you haven't lost the ball and spring thing in the oil pump. If all is well, you can go back to the idiot light with no worries.

I have my autocross videos but there's no way I could compress them down to 1M. I want to find somewhere that I can upload them for cheap or free.

OK, finally got the video compressed (a lot) to fit on here, it was 40M! Looks like drag season is over for me- On my last lap at the rallycross I blew the seals out of the turbo and now the intercooler fills with oil until the BOV opens and sprays it all over the engine compartment! Then I blew a radiator hose while doing a hill climb at the dunes and didn't let off the gas until the engine sputtered out with no water in the coolant system. I'm sure the heads are toast, if not more. I'm just about done with my replacement engine but no time left in the season to drag it. It has stage 2 delta cams, spider intake, stainless header, T3 turbo, water-to-air intercooler and I'll be seting up megasquirt for it as well. Next season should be a good one. Enjoy the video!

I wouldn't weld the front diff unless you are just using it for drag racing. I have done quite a few rears that are still intact. The best way to do it is to remove the spider gears and do a fillet weld in between the teeth, one weld per gear. Don't actually weld any parts together, just make a glob to almost fill in the space between two of the teeth. The gears will rotate almost a full revolution before locking. This makes it much easier for street driving than a fully welded assembly. This will allow the rear to float a few degrees while cornering so there's less binding. This makes it real easy to change back to open diff if you don't like it. I've done this on GM 10 bolts with built V8 engines without any problems. You can also weld the spider gears while they are installed in the housing but you must make sure that all the gear oil is fully drained and cleaned with carb cleaner. Wait for the fumes to dissipate before stricking an arc! This is way easy and there is a lot of info on "welding spider gears"

I'm guessing it was a 2 tire burnout, you were having issues with the spider gears binding right? If the gears aren't too sloppy in the case, you could even weld them to make the front end locked. I've done this on a bunch of rear engine cars but never a front engine. They held up suprizingly well that way.

Whoe dude! That does sound crazy! NICE! Sounds nothing like mine, I just have a 2.5" down pipe that ends right under the trans crossover. I gotta figure out how to upload videos!!!!

I'll print you up some time slips, how fast did you want to go? Haha, these guys are brutal! You might want to leave the spider gears the way they are, it will (and probably has been) helping your 60' times. I strongly believe in not replacing half bad parts. Go for the gusto! Blow those gears apart! Get it on video! Yeah baby!

also, make sure the throttle is WIDE OPEN if it wasn't already. Do it dry, then wet and see if it increased by more than 20%. Leakdown is a better check but a cheapy tester is $50.

I'll have to look at the callipers and pads, It doesn't sound or feel like the brakes are worn but maybe those keepers. Hmm

I have a crazy metal "jingling" sound that follows tire rotation. Sounds like it's comming from the front. It did that when I bought the car, then went away, now it's back. I look under the car expecting to see a loose rotor dust shield but everything looks tight. It's a sheet metal sound. Seems to be only at slow speeds and goes away when I hit the brakes. I'll have to put it on 4 jackstands and let it run in gear as I look under it and try not to get my sleeve snagged on rotating parts...any ideas? It's an 87 RX with full time, turbo and LSD.

I think I would jack it up in the front and turn the wheels by hand, maybe you damaged your spider gears or something. Might check for binding cables etc, you have front parking brake I assume. Strange.

The GM alternator DOES fit with inboard A/C compressor, I'll do it again on my RX and post pics and maybe whip up some brackes to sell on here to make it simple.

Aviation springs? I haven't thought about that yet! I know some guys with them too, I'll see what's up.

I have a ported spider intake, ported heads, .60comp/.63exh T3 turbo, external wastegate, 2" stainless header, delta stage 2 cams and huge water intercooler. I need me some springs. I would be happy if the power band would pull to 7500. This engine is still on the stand and getting ready to drop into the RX. After yesturday's rallyX, and after seeing the oil all over in the engine bay, it's about time to think about installing it! Man, that was a blast!

Looks awesome but I think you will like the shifting performance better if you moved the BOV to the pipe that is mounted to the top of the throttlebody. (downstream of the intercooler) As is, the boosted air has to stop and turn around in your intercooler and head the other way when the BOV opens, then go back towards the throttlebody when the throttle opens up again. I did testing on this with my setup and it made a noticable difference. kick rump roast

Sweet deal guys! I should have no problem hooking it up!

Here's an article that does a good job of sumarizing it without too much engineering lingo. http://www.grapeaperacing.com/GrapeApeRacing/tech/inductionsystems.pdf And I mispelled it, it's a Helmholtz, not a Helmholm resonator.