BoostedBalls

I guess one of your rods tried to escape. What was your oil pressure like when it let go? I wish I could heard it when it happened. I'll be sure to get it on video when this happens to me.

I'm also installing a N/A spider on a turbo car. I tried to remove the steel tube from the regular intake to use on the spider, after drilling hole in thermostat housing of course. The thing was stuck like mad so I gave up on it. I was planning on using the heater hoses also. I wonder what the water temp difference is between the two areas. The heater core should do a good job of cooling the turbo water- if you don't plumb it backwards. But if you did, you might melt your heater vents! You could use a 'T', but I think that would limit the total flow through the turbo. I'm sure it would work just fine either way. I installed the same turbo on an air-cooled VW engine and have been running it without water and it is still holding up just fine.

I have a stock one that is in good shape, $5 plus shipping?????

I tried to use that exact bender to bend 1/8 thick 1.5" tubing to build a roll cage. All it did was make 3 dents in the pipe. I even tried filling the damn thing with sand and it did the same thing. After I got rid of it a friend told me that he used the same bender on a rollcage (same material) but had excellent results. He said that had to alter the die to make it bend without creasing. He also said that a couple sheet aluminum shims on the sides of the pipe helped a lot also.

Get both machines if you can afford it. The MIG is more practical for eveyday stuff but the TIG can do most any metal and have a stronger weld. Don't be afraid to buy used! They last a long long time. I have a Lincoln Precision TIG 185 that makes Xray quality welds and the whole thing was just $1800usd. It is pretty easy to setup and fun as hell. I might be sick but I sometimes dream about welding with it. The MIG is a must-have, you can do some pretty high quality welds real quick. Some aircraft makers even use MIG on their moly frames! When I say MIG I mean wire feed with sheilding gas, not the crappy flux core! That stuff will hate welding and take forever to develop your skills and you'll ony get a half-assed weld at best. I won't even get into regular arc welders, well, I will say that they are best used at the end of a chain to keep your fishing boat from drifting downstream. Oxy-Cet is nice to have around because you can braze with it, sometimes a brazing is stronger than a weld and it chrome plates very nicely. Be careful when buying a MIG welder, go with either an known brand like Miller, Lincoln, Hobart or Century, they use Miller parts. I have a little Century 150 amp and I have built many trailors and sandrails with it. It's the best bang for the buck that I can find.

After engine grounds and voltage verified at battery terminals and alt: I would go with a capacitor like mentioned earlier, you will even hear a difference in the bass. It will smoothen out current draw on the system and make the current more available to the amp. I would also consider a Gm alternator. I think it's time to build up some bolt-on brackets for the ea-82 engines and sell them at an astronomical price to you guys, just kidding. I don't have an A/C compressor on my new engine but I'll design the brackets to work with the compressor in place. How many people would be intersted in such a thing? What should I ask for them? They will be TIG welded mild steel. I might try to sell them on my subaru_18 yahoo group too. I am a moderator on that site. I'll get some of these made up and put a photo of the engine with the GM alternator attached.

Sorry to revive such a large thread but I'm at the point in my ea82t buildup that I need to decide on injectors. I was gunna make some custom fuel rails and use GM Quad 4 injectors but it sounds like I can use some Nissan ones instead. I will be using MegaSquirt and Crane cams ignition. So I should look for some Nissan brown injectors? 1985 turbo car? I know where a couple are but I want to make sure this is the best idea. I would like to see 250-300HP from my engine at 25psi or so. Oddcomp- I'm gunna need yer expertise on the MS soon! Need some welding done???

I can move them about 1/16" by hand and they all seem to act the same. They have been soaking in oil since I took them out of the engine. Are they supposed to contact the bottom of their bores and the rocker at the same time? Mine sure don't! It looks a little weird.

I got my Delta cams installed but the rocker arms seem way too loose. I can't pull them out by hand but I can sure move them around a lot. Looks like it's gunna make some serious noise. Any thoughts? Will the oil pressure hold them where they need to be or did they over cut the base circle of my cams?

I've unstuck a few stuck engines myself... It sounds like rust to me. I would focus on the side that had the head gasket replaced prior. The way I see it, there's 3 ways to do it: Stage one- "minor stucked" Put lots of liquid wrench, diesil, wd-40, kerosine, whatever down the spark plug hole. I prefer liquid wrench but the kerosine does wonders for cleaning everything else on its way to the oil pan, including the oil pan. Let it soak a few days. Stage two- "medium stuck" Same as stage one except the addition of an air line going to the cylinder/cylinders that's on their way down the bore. This adds a few thousand pounds of force to help you and your buddy rotate this sucker. Stage three- "this sucker is stucked" You've already soaked the rings for days in liquid wrench and tried the air compressor trick at over 100psi with no luck. Now it's time for the grease gun. You take a spark plug and hog everything out of it leaving just the threads. Then you weld on a nut that fits a greaserk fitting. See where this is going? A grease gun puts out anywhere from 3,000 -12,000 psi! Yes, you will unstuck this motor! At this point I sure hope you have made sure that the valve train is not the issue! Get a couple tubes of cheap grease and have at it. It WILL turn over. It just leaves a nasty mess to clean up but when it starts to turn it is usually free enough to finish turning by hand. Just be ready for that huge blob of grease that ************s out of the spark plug hole- assuming you took the grease fitting out. This trick only works on cylinders that are near TDC, otherwise you could fill your intake or exhaust with grease! Let me know if you need to borrow my grease fitting, it has unstucked many engines so far.

If you run stock cast iron rings, use a 300 grit finish stone on the cylinders, 500 grit for moly rings. I would bring the ring gap to around .008" on a n/a and .015" on a turbo engine or one in a hot environment. Check ring gaps with the ring at .5" from the deck, center, and .5" from the bottom of the bore. Thrust 'washers' are untigrated into the main bearings.

The current waste gate poppet valve opens as far as the waste gate diaphragm will open it within the relief cast into the turbo's flange. My concern was that the poppet would obstruct the flow into the wastegate pipe when fully open.

Looks good but you might also want to have 3/4" or so of pipe to slide into the outlet of the turbing housing to clean up the wastegate turbulance. It wouldn't even need to be connected to the down pipe, it's just a sleave. Also, I would build up the weld on the outter side of the wastegate pipe so you can radious the inlet on the turbine side. Otherwise, when the poppet valve opens at maximum, you may be blocking the wastegate tube, thus defeating its purpose. I just used an orage-slice of sheetmetal to flow the wastegate exhaust right into the downpipe and it works awesome. This setup does make it easy to install an external wastegate in the furture though. Your new pipe should spool much quicker than the stock. You should take it for a spin before installing mufflers, cats ect, you will be amazed! That's how mine is all the time!

Hard to start up after long drive??? I would be checking that the choke is actually open.

It's just a garrett turbo from an eclipse with a .48 ex / .42 comp. I'll get it on the dyno with this one and then bolt on my .63exh / .60 comp to see what the difference is. I also have one with a divided .83 exh / .60 comp but I think that would be a drag-only setup. I like to race the rallycross so I need something that will work with some mid-range and that will spool up reasonably well. I also have been thinking about running a supercharger instead but I think my 1/4 mile times will suffer. Should work well for the rallycross and autocross though. I'll build my spare engine up with the supercharger. Thanks for the complements guys!

I got the stainless header finished! It's a massive 2", I would have liked to use 1 3/4" tubing instead but I have a crap-load of 2" so 2 inch it is! That's the size of the port coming out of the heads anyway. I'm hoping it will keep a consistent velocity until it reaches the turbo. I decided not to go with an equal length because of space limitations; I don't think it will matter much. The exhaust ports in the heads aren't even equal length anyway. I think it's miles above the stock manifold anyway. Check out the pics and let me know what you guys think. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/photos/showgallery.php?cat=500&ppuser=6630

I'm assuming that you ran this engine before? If there was no puff of smoke at start-up; you are probably ok to reuse them. I would check to see if they are still intact and pliable. If they are cracked or hard, I would replace them. You might be able to use some from a small block chevy or something. They are supposed to allow a small amount of oil to pass through them so too tight would be bad. Just make sure you file the burrs off the valve ends so you don't destroy the new seal upon installation.

I disagree, there is a replacement for displacement. It's a turbocharger. **There's no replacement for a large-displacement engine with a turbocharger. I'm seting up an injected LT1 with twin turbos for a 2600lb car, should be fun. As far as torque curves go, that depends on turbo and cam selection. A good turbocharged 4 cylinder engine can have the same dyno graph as a N/A V8. Turbocharged engines are usually pretty square in relation to HP and torque, torque is usually a bit over the HP figure. It's the opposite with a cammy N/A engine.

After washing it with hot soapy water- Heat that sucker up in your oven and it should come apart pretty easily, your cam may still be good but the aluminum casting is probaby toast. See if any aluminum comes out with the cam. Take the cam and roll it across a piece of glass and see if it is bent. I bet it's fine, might have a little bit of aluminum stuck to the journals but you can get that off by wetsanding with 1500 grit sandpaper. If you get it out and it just looks like oil roasted it all together, I would stick some wire down any oil passages followed by some carb cleaner. Don't be afraid to use gray scotchbrite on the journals of the casting to get the old burnt oil off. Once everything is clean and the cam still won't spin somewhat freely but you know the cam is straight- replace the cam tower casting. Most of those seals can be reused as long as they are pliable. Be carefull if you use RTV to seal them up, a small piece of that sh%t in your oil passages can kill an engine in no time. I only use that crap on coolant gaskets so there is no chance of it plugging off oil to my bearings.

It's a turbo car, go as big as you and your wallet can handle. Glass pack! You might be impressed at how much faster it will spool with an open exhaust. Don't listen to anyone who tells you that you need backpressure on a turbo car. If power and quiet are attributes you wish to convey with said automobile- install 2 glass packs; one right after the cat and the other in the stock muffler location. It will purr but you will still have a litle turbo whistle when you throw down on it.

I live in Cornelius 97113, I can weld. Do you have new pipe, the old stuff doesn't look weldable. I have a bunch of stainless too.

Sorry man, the cone filter setup is probably reducing power as well as allowing your engine to breathe in unfiltered air through the bottom of the stock metal filter housing. The stock metal filter housing is also acting as an oven to preheat the intake air from the convection of the engine heat. If it were mine, I would put the cone filter inside of the passenger fender and run the plumbing right to the top of the carb. This will keep the cool air flowing in and not allowing it to sit and heat up. Then I would take that hood scoop (if you really have to have one) and mount it BACKWARDS. This would help to vent the hot air from under the hood out. Some cars come like that. Remember, your intake manifold is sitting there baking; dropping the overall engine compartment air temp and sucking in cold air will show an increase in power.

Oh, FIRE, I didn't see that at first. You probably either: cooked the layer of oil surrounding the cam journals to make a 'glue' or warped the cam tower to the point of locking the cam in place. Either way, I would take the cam tower off and give it a good visual with the cam out.

I don't think the ea82 has cam bearings, I think the cam just slides inside the cam tower bores on a film of oil. If the cam is seized, I would pull the cam tower off to make sure that the valvetrain isn't causing this. Did you run this thing out of oil or something? I need more info. The stock ea82t has la ow enough compression ratio (7.7:1) for some serious boost, I have ran 2 of these engines over 20psi on stock head gaskets with no problems. Timing is the key factor here, you can blow head gaskets on stock boost if your timing isn't right but not have any problems with much higher boost if your timing is reasonable. Most people like the copper head gaskets because they are strong, transfer heat better and are reusable. I prefer a set of stock style gaskets because they have fewer problems with water jacket leaks. I run copper gaskets in all of my boat and jetski engines because who cares if the water jackets leak, there is a whole lake full of it.

I haven't weighed the car yet but it should be pretty close to stock, whatever that is. Brad stole the rear seats, carpet, other than that; I've added a few lbs under the hood with the WTAIC setup. No spare tire, no roll cage.